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19 Dec

Valentino, Haider Ackermann for Gaultier Amongst Haute Couture Highlights

Valentino, Haider Ackermann for Gaultier Amongst Haute Couture Highlights

PARIS — ’Tis the season to be glamorous because the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode on Monday published its provisional couture calendar.

There can be 30 houses showcasing their collections between Jan. 23 and 26, with 29 runway shows and Iris Van Herpen selecting a presentation format.

As is now tradition, Schiaparelli will kick off the four-day couture season at 10 a.m. on Jan. 23. Back after showing at home in Rome last July, Valentino can be in Paris for the spring collections, closing the third day of couture with a 9:30 p.m. show on Jan. 25.

One highlight can be the Jan. 25 reveal of Haider Ackermann’s one-off collection for Jean Paul Gaultier. In a recent exclusive interview, the Belgian designer told WWD he planned to explore the enduring designer’s quieter side.

Ackermann can be the fourth designer to interpret Gaultier’s oeuvre, revealing that he’d found “that we each discuss different cultures; we each discuss masculine and female; we each have an admiration for tailoring. I feel we’re each in love with women. So I feel all those subjects that he and I share are things that I’m going to attempt to put on the market and show what we have now in common.”

Ackermann, whose last runway show for his signature ready-to-wear collection was for fall-winter 2020, has been largely flying under the radar, making a giant splash here and there by dressing the likes of Tilda Swinton and Timothée Chalamet for key red-carpet appearances.

Sitting out this season are Maison Margiela, which may have shown its menswear line on Jan. 22, and veteran couturier Adeline André.

Three recent guest members will close the season on Jan. 26, as they join fellow guests Aelis, Christophe Josse, Georges Hobeika, Imane Ayissi, Julie de Libran, Juana Martin, Rahul Mishra, RVDK Ronald Van Der Kemp, Yuima Nakazato and Zuhair Murad on the couture schedule.

First up at 4 p.m. can be Gaurav Gupta, a Latest Delhi-based couturier whose sculptural designs have been sported by the likes of Aishwarya Rai Bachchan, Priyanka Chopra Jonas and rapper Saweetie. Along with couture, his brand offers men’s designs, ready-to-wear and now high quality jewelry.

At 5 p.m., it’s going to be the turn of Maison Sara Chraibi, the brand established in 2019 by the Morocco-based designer, who studied architecture, philosophy and architectural theory before beginning to sketch her first designs that are rooted in her homeland’s traditions and crafts.

There also can be Robert Wun. After winning the ANDAM Special Prize, the Hong Kong-born, London-based womenswear designer said he hoped it might help him manifest a Parisian debut. Wish granted – he’ll show at 6 p.m. on Jan. 26.

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