MILAN — Milan was buzzing and men’s fashion week added to the hubbub, as retailers were excited by the trends they saw.

One thing was clear: tailoring is back, but in its recent fluid and relaxed version, with dropped shoulders on deconstructed jackets and wide-leg pants. Retailers found this look in tune with the times, as men proceed to hunt comfort but need to have a more elegant approach to fashion.

“A word that best sums up Milan Men’s Fashion Week is ‘heated.’ It was an inspiring week full of confident, thought-provoking fashion and an emphasis on dressing up,” said Reginald Christian, men’s fashion market manager at Saks.

“This was for my part the perfect Milan Fashion Week of the last couple years, each when it comes to energy and quality of the show,” said Raphaël Deray, buyer for men ready-to-wear, luxury and designers, retail and e-commerce at Printemps.

Prada, Zegna, Fendi, Brioni and Brunello Cucinelli were a number of the brands that were praised by buyers, as was Marco De Vincenzo’s first menswear collection for Etro. Gucci’s first collection designed by a team after Alessandro Michele’s exit was seen as a positive palate cleanser and first step in a recent direction.

Topcoats, bombers and double-breasted blazers were everywhere in the runways. JW Anderson’s Wellipet clogs are also expected to be hot tickets. Double-faced, soft cashmere, and vicuña blended fabrics, in addition to wealthy textures, gave depth and value to the clothes. Corduroy suits were also a powerful trend, as were jacquard and intarsia knits. Eveningwear was back, translated through velvet, shiny surfaces, sequins and embellishments.

Prada Men’s Fall 2023

Reginald Christian, men’s fashion market manager at Saks

Favorite collections: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ fall 2023 collection for Prada prompted an honest conversation concerning the current state of the industry by encouraging us to explore the basics of fashion, simplicity and luxury dressing. The gathering showcased a superb play on proportions, volume and texture seen within the pairing of cocoon-shaped nylon bombers with slim black trousers and chocolate suede blazers layered over fresh cotton duvet vests. Topcoats with vivid orange racing stripes and functional zippers added a modernized retro touch. Fendi delivered a set stuffed with heat with an abundance of textures, sexy silhouettes and luxurious nods to craftsmanship, playfulness, and class. There was an brisk dance of sartorial tailoring and refined sportswear from start to complete, encouraging the concept of dressing up without sacrificing excitement. Outerwear was the standout of the gathering, shown in excellent styles and proportions like long puffer jackets, shearling coats, and voluminous, double-faced cashmere topcoats. Cozy, cashmere knitwear in timeless colours like gray, navy, oatmeal, and black complemented the outstanding outerwear lineup. Alessandro Sartori continues to expand and evolve the sartorial language of Italian craftsmanship in his collections for Zegna. This season, he closed out the week with a superbly balanced collection of leisurewear and elevated styles that evoked a way of ease and adaptability. Setting the tone for innovation, the show opened with a soothing gray relaxed short-sleeve suit, followed by a display of elongated coats, cropped bomber jackets, and blazers without lapels or collars. Energetic pops of aurora yellow, wine red and burgundy hues were skillfully used throughout the gathering.

Best presentation concept: At Prada’s show contained in the Deposito di Fondazione, the room was completely redefined when the ceiling slowly rose and transformed the show space from intimate to grand. The soundtrack took us on a wonderful crescendo journey that captivated everyone in attendance to eagerly stay up for the subsequent look. Held at Casa Cucinelli, Brunello Cucinelli’s presentation felt like a warm invitation into the house of the designer. Models, wearing a mixture of reimagined classic styles, strolled across the thoughtfully designed space accentuated by impeccable garment racks full of winter knitwear, super-lightweight down jackets and handcrafted bags. Canali presented a well-edited collection against a backdrop of forest videography in a nod to the brand’s commitment to sustainability. A way of evolution in menswear was felt throughout the gathering, which featured relaxed wool trousers, corduroy suits, and teddy fabric overshirts.

Trendspotting: If there’s one outerwear style that shall be essential for fall, it’s the topcoat. Designers presented a considerable array of topcoats that included each voluminous and deconstructed styles. The double-breasted blazer may even be big for fall, and the flexibility of suits and fabrications presented this season feels fresh and exciting. The abundance of progressive, lightweight mountaineering boots throughout the collections displayed a transparent trend of thoughtfully designed footwear that’s each functional and cozy.

Must-have item: A pair of Fin dress shoes and a tote bag with a built-in water bottle from Prada, a vintage-inspired shearling bomber jacket from Ralph Lauren Purple Label, or an item from JW Anderson’s whimsical footwear collaboration with Wellipets.

General comment on the season: Refreshed tailoring and wealthy textures were the cornerstone of the collections, highlighted by sharp, directional sportswear. There was an evident appreciation and respect for sartorial flair, minimalism and elevation, best seen in collections from Prada, Fendi, Gucci, Zegna, and Kiton. Designers like Jonathan Anderson for JW Anderson and Marco de Vincenzo for Etro encouraged us to face for uniqueness, individuality and elegance.

Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus

Favorite collections: Prada’s collection of proportion-driven suits, topcoats, standout shoes, and structured totes was a winner. Fendi’s quietly beautiful, texture-driven outerwear and shimmering evening wardrobe, Brioni’s give attention to luxurious materials and expert tailoring, and Brunello Cucinelli’s beautifully crafted, signature mixture of tailoring and sportswear staples were all standouts. Alessandro Sartori’s monochromatic dressing and give attention to thoughtful production at Zegna continues to be hugely influential.

Best presentation concept: Prada’s perception-shifting environment and collection was quite extraordinary. We watched as your complete low ceiling of an enormous, dimly lit space slowly, almost imperceptibly, began rising firstly of the show to disclose a vivid, expansive height, only to lower to its origin for the finale. This visual play and twist on proportion was beautifully represented in the gathering that featured cropped bomber jackets and slim, elongated toggle coats and military parkas, in addition to boxy tailored jackets paired with trim pants. The larger-than-life elevated pinball ramps that prolonged above the Fendi runway and a pulsing Giorgio Moroder disco-era soundtrack infused the luxurious, softly sculpted collection with an infectious energy.

Trendspotting: There may be a unbroken give attention to voluminous, exaggerated proportions with elongated shapes, dropped shoulders, cropped jackets and, importantly, the wide-leg pant which have been dominating the runways.  The long, floor-grazing coat shape was seen at Prada, Fendi and Gucci. Monochromatic and tonal dressing gave a spare elegance to collections and an ease of execution for the client. Plush, double-faced, soft cashmere, and vicuña blended fabrics have given the menswear this season an incredible hand feel at Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli, Zegna and Canali while Prada offered the coziness and luxury of soppy suedes and duvet-inspired pieces. Designers have taken a shine to the evening category, offering creative takes on “after-five” dressing with sparkling, shimmering jackets and bejeweled suit separates in addition to pailletted pants at Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and Giorgio Armani.

Must-have item: A pair of Prada’s chunky Tyrolian-inspired trekking shoes, a sparkling jacket or pailletted pant to catch the sunshine in your evening out, a soft, unconstructed double-faced jacket, a head-to-toe monochromatic look, a tailored topcoat.

General comment on the season: There was an overarching elegance and purity within the collections here in Milan, a refreshing refinement and give attention to design and use of luxurious materials. Brioni designer Norbert Stumpfl referred to his own richly tailored collection as “soft and enveloping,” a phrase which I believe can nicely embrace most of the collections we saw in Milan. Menswear is getting dressed up, with an ease and a relaxed feel that’s overwhelmingly appealing and sure to resonate with our Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman luxury customer.

Jian DeLeon, men’s fashion and editorial director at Nordstrom

Favorite collections: Prada, Gucci, Fendi, Zegna, Canali, JW Anderson, Our Legacy.

Best presentation concept: Between the Giorgio Moroder soundtrack and the incredible set design featuring a Fendi-branded track and silver Fendi-monogrammed mirror balls rolling down it, the show was equally as exhilarating as the gathering.

Trendspotting: There’s definitely a return to more classic menswear, especially in heritage plaids and outerwear like balmacaans and duffle coats.

Must-have item: JW Anderson’s frog clogs are already going viral on social media, so I wouldn’t be surprised if that buzz continues after they release.

General comment on the season: The moment Gucci kicked off the week with a pared-down menswear show focusing more on the garments, it continued a precedent towards collections that feel eminently wearable but still covetable. There’s a renewed excitement about materials and craftsmanship, reinforced by Prada’s use of suedes and motifs inspired by industrial grated floors.

Raphaël Deray, buyer for men ready-to-wear, luxury and designers, retail and e-commerce at Printemps

Favorite collections: Prada, Magliano, Etro and Zegna.

Trendspotting: A genderless fashion with men wearing skirts and dresses (layered over a trouser or not), sheer tops, corsets, leg warmers and more. It was ubiquitous at just about all the shows in Milan. Also, a quite glossy fashion with a whole lot of sequins, on denim, knitwear, skirts in addition to some shiny fabrics. Overall, I might say simplicity is back (but not minimalist) with casual looks, relatively innocent sometimes, a classic and fluid tailoring, not a lot of layering or basic colorways.

Must-have items: Get yourself a skirt, a big point-collar Prada shirt and an extended coat (ankle length).

Budgets: Budgets are up as demand is growing.

Buying process: Same as all the time, but increasingly forcing myself to purchase into categories that weren’t so usual to men.

Simon Longland, head of menswear and womenswear at Harrods

Favorite collections: Alessandro Sartori’s showcase at Zegna was a transparent example of a designer at the highest of their game. A very exceptional collection, and a masterclass in cut, form, proportion, fabrication, color and execution. And the gorgeous color palette of wealthy neutrals contrasted with daring pops of ochre and red made for a utterly wearable winter wardrobe. Prada showcased one other collection that felt resolutely rooted within the brand’s DNA. From the strict, pure Prada tailoring that’s so fiercely successful to sharply tailored trousers and subtle boxy jackets and collared knits — the gathering perfectly encapsulated a contemporary wardrobe. Fendi showcased a menswear collection stuffed with truly covetable pieces — modern menswear at its best. A wardrobe perfectly designed for each aspect of a glamorous city life in an ultra-sophisticated wash of grays, blues, browns and ivory. I expect waiting lists for the standout pieces, which, for me, were the ankle-length coats, draped jackets, capes and splendid leathers.

Trendspotting: Bombers were all over the place this season, and it’s a trend I expect is here to remain; from classic and pared back at Zegna to oversized or cropped from Gucci and Prada — there really is a bomber for each occasion. Tailoring continues to dominate the runway across many collections and it’s really great to see each creative director make the style their very own. From Dolce’s foray back to its tailoring roots and JW Anderson’s exploration of casual suiting, Miuccia and Raf at Prada prepared the ground because the masters in tailoring and season on season deliver clean, sharp tailoring that has grow to be so iconic to the home. Wide-leg silhouettes were present in almost every show this season. The fitted and flared tailoring we’ve got seen from Gucci throughout the previous seasons evolved and showcased wide and loose trousers in a myriad of textures, fabrics and embellishments and after all Zegna’s wide-leg silhouettes were beautifully draped and enough to win over even probably the most ardent devotee of a narrow leg. Statement outerwear, from Fendi & Dolce’s dramatic capes to floor-sweeping overcoats from Prada, Fendi, Gucci and daring intarsia patterns Zegna and Etro.

Must-have item: An announcement coat worn over a beautifully tailored jacket and a wide-leg trouser.

Justin Berkowitz, men’s fashion director at Bloomingdale’s

Favorite collections: With the return of customer interest in tailoring and more formal footwear, there was a palpable energy shift in Milan this season. It’s been a powerful few days of shows with great collections and a renewed sense of pleasure in town. This was evident outside the Fondazione Prada, where 1000’s of fans of the Korean group Enhyphen gathered to see the band as they attended the show. On the runway there, a stellar mixture of minimal tailored looks, hand-waxed suede outerwear, and bomber jackets referenced long-standing brand hallmarks imbued with the newer influence of Raf Simons. Dolce & Gabbana, focused totally on sleek tailoring and eveningwear in black, was party ready, with loads of sex appeal, and great energy. Brioni continues to look exceptionally strong, managing to look each incredibly aspirational and completely wearable — quiet but beautiful modern luxury, with excellent outerwear. And eventually, Zegna’s runway show, with its give attention to cashmere and a collaboration with The Elder Statesman, was equally sumptuous and forward considering. A future vision of tailored clothing and chic sportswear, it stripped away more classic design elements for a study in shape and texture.

Best presentation concept: Gucci’s incorporation of a live musical act provided a fantastic acoustic backdrop for his or her collection.

Trendspotting: It’s incredibly refreshing to see the strong return of tailoring on the runways. The execution felt most up-to-date with a play on proportion: either a boxy jacket or a fuller pant makes the concept feel right for today. Clean-shouldered, long and languid topcoats are likewise an element of the equation. This shift is mirrored in footwear, with a shift from the predominance in sneakers to a dressier offer, often shown with a lug sole. Novelty evening- and formalwear were one other key message, whether translated through velvet, shine or embellishment. Gender-fluid ideas on this message were also a standard theme that looked quite strong — event dressing as a vehicle for self-expression is comparatively recent to the boys’s scene, and it’s a welcome alternative to the uniform black tuxedo archetype.

Should have item: Prada’s suede coats are an absolute dream.

Dean Cook, head of menswear buying at Browns

Favorite collections: From the gathering to the show setting, Prada captured the mood this season and once more, was one in all my favorite shows of Milan.

Best presentation concept: Glamour and understated elegance oozed from Brunello Cucinelli.

Trendspotting: Tailoring stole the show this season and appeared to be all over the place, each on the runway in addition to worn by those attending the shows.

Must-have item: Anything Prada, but especially the suit with the marginally oversized, squared shoulder and the long tailored coat.

General comment on the season: Overall, Milan was a fantastic technique to kick off men’s fashion month. There was a whole lot of excitement surrounding Marco de Vincenzo’s debut menswear collection for Etro, in addition to the highly anticipated Gucci show. Also we are able to’t not shout out British brand Charles Jeffery Loverboy’s debut runway show, which was a fantastic addition to the week.

Menswear buying team at Mytheresa

Favorite collections: Prada, Zegna, Gucci, Fendi and Giorgio Armani.

Best presentation concept: Prada, Zegna and Tod’s.

Trendspotting: For the upcoming season we’ve got identified a powerful presence of overcoats, chunky knit, color block and complex modern tailoring.

Must-have item: Overcoats play a necessary role in the subsequent season wardrobe staples.

Buying process: Despite the post-pandemic digital wave, the physical showroom visits remain of paramount importance.

General comment on the season: Fall 2023 collections are all looking more elevated and luxury. Beautiful knit texture and grey long coats are the important thing highlights of this Milan Fashion Week.

Federica Montelli, head of fashion at Rinascente

Favorite collections: Prada, Dolce Gabbana, JW Anderson, Fendi, Giorgio Armani, MSGM. A robust first showing in the boys’s department for Marco de Vincenzo at Etro, and exquisite collections from Magliano and Federico Cina, who confirmed their status as “hot” names.

Best presentation concept: Fendi’s giant flipper-disco ball was probably the most intriguing setup, accompanied by Moroder’s featured rating: perhaps a little bit overpowering, but served as a great contrast to the beautifully crafted collection. I particularly appreciated Dolce & Gabbana’s dark and moody setting which complemented the sexy tailoring, in addition to MSGM’s academic inspiration literally hosted inside Milan’s Politecnico University.

Trendspotting: Tailoring stole the show at most brands, starting from elegant daywear to evening. Knitwear was one in all the essential themes, for instance at Etro, with beautiful jacquards and mohair and alpaca sweaters. Jackets are either cropped or long and slim. Usually, we proceed to see a looser aesthetic, with roomy or flared pants and denims paired with deconstructed coats. Two brands went more decisively for slimmer cuts, Prada and JW Anderson. Touches of femininity and genderless were also seen, with the important thing look being the corset bustier at Dolce & Gabbana. Flashes of purple mixing grays and beige houndstooth were among the many strongest colours, in a really generally dark (often all black) palette. On the opposite side of the spectrum, Y2K and academia was the theme at MSGM, while a mixture of tech-goth-punk mood was present in brands like [1017 Alyx 9SM], JordanLuca, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy.

Must-have item: Prada provided, as usual, loads of lust-worthy items: detachable contrast collars peeking through tailoring, the rounded puffer/bomber hybrid jackets, the brand new chunky apron shoes with zip. There was loads of fun on the runway, with ironic pieces popping up, like Fendi’s quite literal shearling baguette bag or JW Anderson’s “Wellipets” frog shoes. JordanLuca’s collab with Londsdale has the proper amount of Y2K nostalgia.

General comment on the season: For what we’ve got seen up to now in Milan and Florence, the season appears to be moving into two parallel conversations. One dedicated to the “smartorial” look, a simplicity for on a regular basis with a touch of rigor. The opposite one is about subcultures, a celebration of the “underground” aesthetic, with a mixture of punk and grunge of the early 2000s imbued with a 2020s tech touch. After a powerful start with Milan’s fashion week we expect some recent themes emerging in Paris next week.

Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew

Favorite collections: All eyes were on Gucci setting the tone of what we’d see in Milan. Designed by the in-house team, Gucci presented a wonderful palate cleanser for the brand with a complicated, retro edge to the gathering. Prada exemplified a recent vision of dynamic dressing through structured tailoring and a retro-futuristic color palette. Mrs. Prada and Raf Simons delivered a refreshing tackle uniform dressing, elevating key outerwear silhouettes. Zegna presented a highly textural collection, expertly layered. Statement knitwear and relaxed tailoring exemplified the proper pairing of proportions. A special mention goes to Marco De Vincenzo’s debut men’s collection for Etro, which was a romantic and ‘70s-influenced direction for the brand.

Best presentation concept: Brunello Cucinelli’s presentation at “Casa Cucinelli” offered a wonderful expression of the brand. K-Way’s recreation of Café de la Paix, the Parisian café where founder Léon-Claude Duhamel first thought of making the brand, was an excellent technique to display the gathering.

Trendspotting: Voluminous silhouettes and relaxed tailoring aren’t going anywhere. Revisited takes on fluid and oversized silhouette within the types of suiting and statement outerwear took precedence. With each season we proceed to progress further into what fluidity in fashion looks like. From the kilts at Etro to the long skirts at Gucci, it’s exciting to see more daring styles on the menswear runways. Archetypal varieties of menswear are also leaning feminine, with Fendi being an ideal example of this by showing one-shoulder knits alongside classic suiting looks. When it comes to fabric, a lot of wool plaids, checks and shearlings were seen on the runways. The ideas of textural fabrications and heritage fabrics comparable to corduroy and sustainable wool yarns have gotten increasingly outstanding with brands like Eleventy, Giorgio Armani and Tod’s keeping it fresh and recent.

Must-have item: The additional-long tailored coat shall be essential for the autumn season, seen at Fendi, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana. Prada’s bomber jackets and leather totes are also top of the list. The chunky Wallabies from Prada and the knit sneakers from Tod’s were key footwear standouts. The cashmere tote bags at Fendi. And Zegna’s intarsia knit sweaters worn as outerwear.

Budgets: The collections in Milan showcased a powerful product offering and our budgets reflect accordingly.

Buying process: We’ve hit the bottom running this 12 months and it’s been amazing to totally be back in person for fall 2023. We proceed to embrace recent and progressive discoveries at each the shows and showrooms.

General comment on the season: This week in Milan has been stuffed with highly anticipated collections. From Gucci’s recent direction to De Vincenzo’s debut at Etro, Milan didn’t disappoint. Most of the collections showcased recent expressions of traditional Italian heritage with a transparent give attention to updated, timeless pieces with an emphasis on wealthy textiles and overstated silhouettes. We’re seeing a return to the smart, sophisticated gentleman who embraces the art of dressing up.

Riccardo Tortato, head of shopping for departments and men’s fashion director at Tsum, Moscow and DLT, St. Petersburg

Favorite collections: Zegna and Brunello Cucinelli.

Best presentation concept: Zegna and Brioni.

Trendspotting: Suit, soft blazer and coat. The “bel vestire” [to dress well, in English] is back and on this Italians brands are masters in that.

Must-have item: Formal shoes and cashmere coat.

Buying process: We buy within the showroom as all the time. I’m not even sure the digital buying continues to be available from all brands because this season all buyers were in Milan.

General comment on the season: I actually have noticed not less than 4 designers having a very similar variety of products on the catwalk and it’s one in all those moments in fashion when you may almost mix different brands in a single solid style. There may be a very visible trend that ran through the highest brands: Streetwear is only a memory from the past and all designers are working to create a contemporary elegance and a recent man code based on a blazer and coat, soft pants and recent formal shoes. In a way, Alessandro Sartori has been the primary to speak this recent language of fashion since not less than two years. On one other side, we see Brunello Cucinelli, Kiton and Brioni that propose a very sophisticated recent gentleman style. Classic items from a gentleman wardrobe are reinvented with softer fabrics, in addition to larger and more comfortable volume. A special mention to Mr. Giorgio Armani and his style that on this moment is more modern and on point than [the one of a] lot of latest designers.