There was loads of hubbub surrounding the celebrities sitting front row on the spring couture circuit.

Doja Cat and Kylie Jenner caused an uproar upon arriving at Schiaparelli — the previous dripped in 30,000 red crystals, while the latter wore a modified version of the velvet gown topped with a pretend taxidermy lion’s head that might later be seen on Irina Shayk. 

These women could have been merely a sideshow to the creative circus that was Daniel Roseberry’s Dante’s Inferno-inspired collection, but their ability to attract attention their bodies spoke to a bigger trend that unfolded on runways — a significant emphasis on the waist.

Tailoring with curvaceous lines inspired by Schiaperelli’s signature perfume bottle offered a wearable counterpoint to a few of Roseberry’s more outlandish looks. The home, “has an actual — and thriving — couture business that caters to women with practical needs,” observed WWD’s Miles Socha in his review, noting that the designer, “addressed these with a plethora of black evening gowns, and hourglass jackets that were laced down the back, corset-style.”

Jean Paul Gaultier’s anthropomorphic fragrances led to loads of corsetry in Haider Ackermann’s takeover as well, while Giorgio Armani and Robert Wun emphasized the mid-section by taking pierrot-like ruffs off of the neck and placing them across the hips. Miss Sohee did the identical, but with sequin petals that enveloped her models turning them into actual femme-fleurs. 

But still, what would a couture season be without myriad references to Christian Dior’s full-skirted latest look from 1947? Maria Grazia Chiuri, inspired by Josephine Baker’s boyishly cut costumes, sat this one out. Not to fret since the likes of Valentino, Viktor & Rolf and Virginie Viard at Chanel showed larger-than-life princess silhouettes to set every Cinderella’s heart aflutter.