Scalp care is the brand new skincare. 

Brands, retailers and salons are betting big on this category, as scalp care has turn out to be a hot topic for a slew of reasons, not least of which is hair loss attributable to effects of the COVID-19 pandemic. 

Data from The NPD Group shows that scalp care is growing across each mass and prestige; the highest shampoo launch within the mass category in 2022 was a scalp care option from Head & Shoulders, for instance. 

“It’s definitely been outpacing,” said Larissa Jensen, The NPD Group’s vice chairman of beauty. “It’s not only a prestige-only story.”

Inside the prestige market in 2022, scalp care products grew 47 percent and hair thinning products grew 29 percent, while the hair category overall increased 22 percent. And innovation is just as outstanding. The firm reports scalp care launches doubled in 2022 versus 2021. 

Metrics from social media bear out the increased interest. Videos tagged #ScalpTreatment and #ScalpCare on TikTok have 225.1 million and 965.2 million views, respectively. Much of the scalp care category is being driven by the concept of stopping future hair loss.

“A part of that might be partially attributed to COVID-19 hair loss instances,” Jensen said. “Gen X, when it comes to generational cohort, are approaching that age of menopause where hair thinning might be a priority…and, in fact, stress can result in hair thinning also. There’s a whole lot of things which might be which might be happening.”

While scalp-focused products and routines are trending, doctors and trichologists emphasize the importance of long-term scalp care. 

“I like to have a look at the scalp because the soil for the hair. In the event you consider that analogy and you consider the hair follicle having to grow, you may have to have soil,” said Dr. Craig Ziering, a Latest York City-based dermatologist, hair transplant surgeon and owner of Ziering Medical, a hair restoration clinic with locations in Latest York, Connecticut and California. 

Ziering emphasized that while caring for the scalp can aid in treating inflammatory conditions like dandruff, it could actually also help with more aesthetic transformations (think healthy hair growth). 

This evolution toward scalp care mirrors the dynamics of the skincare category with formats like serums and ingredients like hyaluronic acid gaining traction. Likewise, combatting the results of aging on the hair is a serious aspect of the scalp care category.

“As we grow old, our hair gets weaker, thinner, more damaged, drier, loses its color, texture. The standard of it diminishes,” Ziering said. “The hair follicle itself is one in all the best sources of not only stem cells but rejuvenating properties. We will use antiaging products and coverings to rejuvenate the hair follicle, so there’s an entire movement towards what we call rejuvenation for the hair.” 

Brands are starting to enter into this specific antiaging sect of scalp care. For instance, Dr. Barbara Sturm has a Super Anti-Aging hair care collection which employs antioxidants, vitamins and hyaluronic acid to nourish the scalp to permit for youthful hair growth.

For Act + Acre, scalp health overall is the fundamental focus. Cofounders and husband-and-wife Helen Reavey and Colm Mackin, each hairstylists (Reavey can also be a trichologist) recognized the necessity for scalp-focused products after doing hair at fashion week and seeing how consistent damage to the scalp from product buildup, high heat and stress affected the looks and health of hair strands. 

For this reason, the brand is entirely focused on products that first, address scalp health after which, in turn, promote healthy hair. The brand’s products range from the Scalp Detox, $48, which removes buildup and provides nutrients and hydration, to the Scalp Dermaroller, $56, a tool that uses 540 high-strength medical grade stainless-steel needles to advertise healthy hair growth and improve the efficacy of topical products. 

“What makes us different is, I’m a trichologist, so it truly is having a specialist be the one that’s formulating with the formulators who actually understands what the products are getting used for,” Reavey said. 

While the brand is aiming to own the category, consumer understanding is difficult, especially as “scalp care” is comparatively recent. 

“Initially, once we just had a scalp detox product available on the market, people didn’t really understand what this was for, but we kept on creating education, kept on debunking the myths, providing a whole lot of information and showing why you need to use this,” she said.

To that end, the brand’s website features tutorial-style videos for every product, the science of scalp care, educational blog posts and clinical study results.

“It’s only a natural progression with the category that folks turn out to be more aware, more accustomed to this, and it becomes a natural a part of the routine,” Reavey said. 

Because the category continues to expand and consumer interest grows, brands like Briogeo and Oribe have built out scalp-specific lines, joining well-estabished brands like Philip Kingsley, a pioneer in the sector of trichology and scalp treatments. 

Crown Affair, a clean, ritual-based hair care brand, has doubled down on its approach to scalp, specializing in education. 

“The fact is that the majority of the country at-large doesn’t understand the difference between scalp care and strand care and that they’re essentially various things, but they do work in such harmony,” said Dianna Cohen, founder and chief executive officer of Crown Affair. 

In an effort to achieve consumers, Cohen posts across her personal social channels, in addition to the brand’s, chronicling her hair care routine, oftentimes explaining how the brand’s products work holistically to deal with each scalp and strand health. Its star product is the Cleansing Scalp Scrub, $54, which took greater than two years to formulate, and is formulated to buff away debris and balance the scalp. 

Other brands targeting the scalp include Kitsch and Seen. The previous has Pre-wash Scalp Oil, $19, a plant-based topical that removes buildup and resets the scalp, while the latter launched Restore Scalp Serum, $48, a skincare ingredient-infused topical that hydrates and balances dry scalps.

“What we heard from our community was a whole lot of people talking about hair loss,” said Cassandra Thurswell, CEO and founding father of Kitsch, who said the Pre-wash Scalp Oil is an all-natural treatment that might nourish the hair follicle to create a perfect environment for hair growth.

Seen’s Restore Scalp Serum was developed to deal with dry, flaky and irritated scalps, a relentless concern amongst the brand’s users — 50 percent of individuals globally cope with dandruff, in line with the International Journal of Trichology.

“Lots of the products that we develop at Seen are in response to our customers needs, so a lot of our customers have gotten so a lot better with their dry flaky scalp, but they might still have some persistence or some patches or they’re using, medicated products that they don’t necessarily need to use,” said Dr. Iris Rubin, founding father of Seen.

With the topical space booming, tools are also on the rise. Ceremonia’s Scalp Masajeador, $16, which helps with lathering up shampoo, scrubbing away debris and boosting blood flow to prompt hair growth, has turn out to be a standout for the brand. Similarly, Lanshin’s Scalp Stimulator, $59, is like an accupressure gua sha for the top. Luminess Cosmetics has an Aeroscalp Scalp Cleansing Device, $99, which uses oxygenated air and sonic vibrations to deeply massage and cleanse the scalp without having to make use of an excessive amount of shampoo. 

Red light therapy and laser technology have also taken hold throughout the scalp category. Since red light prompts healing, research shows it could actually help grow hair and increase strand density. Hair transplant surgeon Dr. Ziering is a fan of the technology and sells an at-home option called the ZCap (LaserCap) HD+, $3,000, that’s worn like a baseball hat. The Laduora Duo 4-in-1 Pod Based Scalp & Hair Care Device, $300, is a comb-like tool that uses sonic vibration, therapeutic warmth, red light therapy and electric stimulation to spice up circulation and ultimately prompt healthier, stronger hair growth. 

Plenty of salons are doubling down on scalp care. For instance, Blow Me Away in Los Angeles offers custom head spa services, including detoxing options for greasy scalp, hydrating ones for dry or aging scalp, and a treatment for thinning hair and loss. The Heavenly Spa by Westin locations also offer a scalp oil and massage add-on to its treatments, which may boost blood circulation and hydrate the skin. Aveda hair salons also offer oil-based botanical therapies to treat the scalp. The Philip Kingsley Trichological Clinic, with locations in London and Latest York City, offers in-depth scalp evaluation and personalized treatments.

Head spa salons and services are beginning to pop up across the country.

The Hair Repair Bar by Giojé in Latest York City is one such locale. While the salon offers a wide range of services, including cuts, coloring and in fact, the signature hair and scalp treatment, each appointment is dictated by the present state of the guest’s scalp. 

“Each client who involves our salon gets a scalp analyzer,” said founder Giovanny Jorge. “We don’t just do what the client wants because we’re more focused on what the client can have without damaging. Every part starts from the scalp after which it runs through the hair.” 

Hair Repair Bar’s signature hair and scalp treatment employs essential oils to remove debris, including dandruff, rejuvenate the scalp and nourish strands. Throughout the pandemic, Jorge experienced consumer demand for an at-home scalp treatment option, which led her to develop the ScalpFacial, $44, with formulations for greasy and dry hair. 

Japanese head spas, like Masa Kanai in Latest York City, have also gained traction. In line with data from Spate, searches for Japanese scalp treatment were up 70 percent year-over-year.

“As consumers put deal with this stuff, they’re going to look outside of products as well to treatments that would amplify results that they’re getting through their products, potentially” said Jensen, hypothesizing that treatment offerings will proceed to expand with the growing category.

The Scalp Squad:

Crown Affair The Cleansing Scrub, $54

Crown Affair’s The Cleansing Scrub, $54, is formulated with Bolivian pink salt to exfoliate the scalp and sweep away debris; coconut-derived surfactants gently cleanse without stripping. 

Act + Acre Scalp Relief System, $145

Act + Acre’s Scalp Relief System, $45 features a Scalp Detox, Scalp Renew and a Stem Cell Scalp Serum formulated with baobab oil, salicylic acid and Swiss apple stem cells to balance the skin’s microbiome and maintain a healthy scalp, in addition to treat inflammatory conditions.

Seen Restore Scalp Serum, $36

Seen’s Restore Scalp Serum, $36, is formulated for dry and irritated scalps. It includes hero ingredients like propanediol caprylate to detox the scalp and squalane to moisturize and boost the skin’s barrier.

Kitsch Pre-Wash Scalp Oil, $19

Kitsch’s Pre-Wash Scalp Oil, $19, is formulated with rosemary to remove buildup, biotin to advertise healthier strands and argan and jojoba oils to moisturize the scalp. 

Philip B. Scalp Booster System, $225

Philip B.’s Scalp Booster System, $225, features a shampoo, leave-in conditioner, pre-wash treatment and a scalp massager. Key ingredients include redensyl, a plant-based compound that’s shown to extend hair growth, and salicylic acid and citrus extracts, exfoliants that may buff away oils and debris.

Innersense Harmonic Hair Renew Scalp Collection, $80

Innersense’s Harmonic Hair Renew Scalp Collection, $80, features a serum, pre-wash treatment and a gua sha-style comb. The 2 topicals are formulated with microhyaluronic acid to hydrate, magnesium oil to detox and zinc gluconate to balance scalp oils.

Philip Kingsley Density Preserving Scalp Drops, $68

Philip Kingsley’s Density Preserving Scalp Drops, $68, are formulated with a biomimetic peptide mix, azelaic acid, pyridoxine HCL and zinc PCA to advertise denser strands and reduce thinning.