LONDON — Central Saint Martins’ annual BA graduate show saw students pushing the boundaries of fashion with unique textiles, silhouettes and techniques.
Held contained in the Granary Square campus in Kings Cross, the 134-graduate showcase actually lived as much as the style school’s popularity as “the world’s biggest factory for making trouble” as its current chancellor, Grayson Perry describes the varsity.
Menswear designer Eden Tan took home the highest honor of the L’Oréal Professionnel Young Talent Award. His collection, titled “On Borrowed Fabric,” centers around sustainability, drawing on his hobby of tinkering to develop recent techniques.
Each look from his collection was crafted out of an uncut roll of cloth, a few of which were then airbrushed to create a trompe l’oeil effect.
“The motivation of the gathering was the potential for making clothes which might be as easily reprocessed into recent garments as if the material had never passed through my hands,” Tan explained to WWD.
“This meant developing an arsenal of techniques with the aim of convincing the attention that what it’s seeing is greater than only a roll of cloth,” he added.
Runners up for the L’Oréal prize were womenswear designers Alba Mas Amoros, who got here in second place, and Ivan Delogu, who got here in third.
Other standouts included Sarabande award winner and womenswear designer Sam Crabbe’s collection, which featured elevated classic wardrobe staples with architectural twists.
In a single look, long, lime green silk trousers draped across the models’ legs paired with a gray bandeau top that had protrusions jutting from it. Within the model’s hands was a sparkling pink bag, in a shape paying homage to a bird’s wing.
“It’s a couple of childhood fascination with birds of prey, particularly the peregrine falcon,” the designer said. “To me, they represent the epitome of agility, fluidity and freedom, which is what I desired to portray on this collection.”
Sofia Castellon, recipient of the Nina Steward Award, and who’s graduating from the knitwear pathway, derived inspiration from her Mexican American identity.
Her work experimented with elastic in knitwear, allowing her textiles, which got here in shades of pink, blue and white, to be contorted over metal and plastic structures. Also incorporated in her work were a wide range of personal materials.
“Over the course of the past few years, I collected ‘milagros,’ which translates to ‘miracles,’” Castellon explained.
“They’re silver charms from my hometown, Mexico City, Mexico. I knitted them in a way that may create a mesmerizing glimmer and jingle,” she said.
In the midst of the show, calamity struck when a knitwear designer had his models pour cigarette butts over the runway, a few of which flew onto the group. BA fashion design pathway leader Sarah Gresty was immediately on the scene, amongst others, clearing the runway for the upcoming models.
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