Palomo’s Spring 2024 collection, “Cruising within the Rose Garden” celebrated the countless possibilities of menswear and the fluid nature of gender. Corsets, micro shorts and man-bras were amongst the repertoire of things that were sent down the runway of The Plaza hotel. A spotlight of Palomo’s this season was on the duality of human nature and the push and pull that makes way for a balance – he describes one side of him to be an “idyllic” hopeless romantic whilst the opposite he labelled as “cruisy” and dark. Models were instructed to make eye contact with the group, exercising the intricate subtleties of affection that pass between two people. 

Kim Shui

It-girl favourite Kim Shui has been worn by the likes of Blackpink, Sza, Devon Lee Carlson and Dua Lipa. This season, Shui marries the cultures of Italy, where she grew up, along with China, as a nod to her Chinese heritage. The designer incorporated the usage of mud silk, a Chinese sacred fabric, on this collection’s qipaos with sultry cutouts on the chest, creating a contemporary spin on the normal dress. Lace details and luxurious color mixtures emulated an fringe of sophistication whilst tiny bralettes and thigh-high cutouts maintained the label’s cool girl element. 

Ashlyn So

15 year-old Ashlyn So combines fashion and activism, advocating for the de-stigmatisation of mental health inside the Asian community. The young designer showcased a fascinating collection this fashion week stuffed with stunningly intentional silhouettes crafted from organza and reflective fabric. Off the runway, Ashlyn actively speaks out against racism, with a selected emphasis on combatting discrimination against Asian-Americans, even taking the initiative to organise her own rallies. 

London

Supriya Lele

Supriya Lele is undeniably an emerging force in fashion. The British-Indian designer seamlessly blends elements from her dual heritage identity, drawing inspiration from each noughties club culture, in the shape of boob tubes and miniskirts in addition to traditional Indian attire reminiscent of saris. The result is an ideal fusion which makes up the wardrobe of a contemporary day cool girl, reminiscent of the orange sari dress Dua Lipa slipped on for her twenty fifth birthday or the 90’s inspired black leather coat that Bella Hadid flaunted within the streets of Paris. 

Susan Fang

Dubbed as one in every of China’s most promising emerging designers, Susan Fang’s approach to design is one in every of a whimsical Wonderland-esque nature. A lover of tulle, ribbons, feathers and all things hyper-feminine, Fang comments on the aim of her designs not needing to be an actual reflection of 1’s internal values. She shares that wearing soft clothes doesn’t necessarily mean we’re soft inside. 

Ancuta Sarca

Seen on the Kardashians, Rihanna and Bella Hadid, shoewear brand Ancuta Sarca has been stepping it up recently. Born in Romania and now based in London, Sarca’s trademark “trainer heel” has turn out to be an ubiquitous presence. As an upcycling brand, the rising designer combines pre-loved trainers and vintage heels to create each unique pair, offering a component of newness within the shoe game. 

Milan

Karoline Vitto

Karoline Vitto will debut her first fashion show at this Milan Fashion Week, backed by Dolce & Gabbana. The Brazilian born, London-based designer creates garments for ladies between UK sizes 8-28, celebrating the natural curves of the feminine body. Having grown up in Eurocentric Brazil, the sweetness standards of a lady’s body were very stringent. In her designs, Vitto advocates for showing every thing a lady was taught to cover, having particular cutouts in garments reminiscent of on the hips to spotlight the natural folds and soft textures of the body. 

Shuting Qiu

Hailing from Hangzhou, Shuting Qiu boasts a powerful international background. With previous showcases in Recent York and Milan and now based in Shanghai, Qiu has had quite the worldly resumé. Having began as an artist before transitioning right into a designer, Qiu’s artistic roots shine  in her remarkable ability to translate brush strokes between the mediums of canvas and fabric. Never straying away from her origins within the high-quality arts, the designer often pays homage to painters reminiscent of Bernard Frize for her last Spring collection in 2023 where she showcased her conscientiousness in uniting quite a lot of patterns and colourations. 

Avavav

When you’re searching for avant-garde, quirky fashion moments, AVAVAV is true up your alley. For her Autumn 2023 show, Swedish designer Beate Karlsson focused on making a theatrical runway experience. She instructed her models to intentionally fall as heels of shoes broke off and bags fell to pieces on the catwalk. The theme of the gathering was “Fake It Till You Break It” and it aimed to make clear what luxury fashion truly entails, going viral on several social media platforms for its thought-provoking commentary. 

Paris

RUI

Recent York-based Chinese designer Rui Zhou pushes the boundaries of traditional silhouettes by redefining the best way garments interact with the body. Her creations transcend the everyday bodysuit or tank top which we’re so conversant in. Being versatile of their use, her garments will be worn as a part of an on a regular basis ensemble, or within the case of Jennie from BLACKPINK, as a concert outfit on the Born Pink stage. Zhou’s design philosophy revolves around manipulating fabrics, in the shape of circular cutout motifs which play with the negative space between the skin and fabric. Her revolutionary approach to design can be present in her use of the body as a frame, stripping away connotations of clothing to a selected gender.

Duran Lantink

Visionary Dutch designer Duran Lantink’s approach to fashion is one in every of deconstruction. He takes apart luxury fashion garments with a view to completely transform them into recent creations. From an early age, Lantink experimented at home together with his family’s clothes, once combining his grandma’s skirt, a tablecloth and his father’s Diesel jeans together for a bit he created on the age of 15. He has caught the eye of countless celebs reminiscent of Billie Eilish who wore his custom designs for Dazed Magazine’s Spring/Summer 2020 edition. 

Didu

Di Du’s namesake label is a remarkable fusion of her Chinese heritage and her Belgian education at the celebrated Royal Academy of High quality Art. With a keen concentrate on shapes, cuts, techniques and the usage of sustainable fabrics, DIDU embodies hyper-femininity, subversion and futurism for ladies. By seamlessly integrating Eastern and Western cultures, she aspires to foster a way of self-love and self-acceptance, empowering women to be comfortable in their very own skin.