MILAN — Calzedonia Group once more took the highest spot as the corporate with the best potential to go public, in keeping with the 2023 “Le Quotabili” study by Milan-based consultancy Pambianco Strategie di Impresa. Giorgio Armani‘s namesake group ranked second, followed by Golden Goose, inverting the 2 firms’ positions from last 12 months’s study.
Autry, Stefano Ricci and Max Mara ranked fourth, fifth and sixth, respectively.
The Pambianco rating analyzes the businesses which have the economic, financial and positioning characteristics to be publicly listed in a time span of three to 5 years, no matter whether a list is within the plans of the firm.
Two firms which have actually expressed an interest in an IPO, Liu-Jo and OTB, were ranked ninth and sixteenth, respectively. OTB, which controls Diesel, Marni, Jil Sander, Maison Margiela and Viktor & Rolf, last 12 months was positioned sixth. Dolce & Gabbana ranked thirteenth.
Calzedonia Group, founded by Sandro Veronesi, controls the Calzedonia, Intimissimi and Tezenis labels in addition to knitwear brand Falconeri, bridal line Atelier Emé and wine retailer Signorvino. In September last 12 months, it took a majority stake in Antonio Marras.
Within the Pambianco report, Veronesi admitted that a list is “a possibility now we have considered repeatedly, but that now we have at all times postponed to concentrate on other goals.” Aged 64, he said the most important objectives were now the generational handover, as his children increase their responsibilities throughout the company, and the evolution into a bunch of brands and firms, allowing each to be more autonomous. “So the Bourse may very well be an option, but in the long run, not now,” he concluded.
Gruppo Calzedonia in 2022 logged one other 12 months of growth, reporting revenues up 21.6 percent to greater than 3 billion euros within the 12 months before. In 2023, Calzedonia further diversified through the acquisition of premium yacht-maker Cantiere del Pardo.
The Giorgio Armani Group closed 2022 on an upward trajectory, with revenues rising 16.5 percent to 2.35 billion euros compared with just over 2 billion euros in 2021.
Sales including licenses exceeded 4.5 billion euros, while retail sales turnover is estimated to exceed 6.5 billion euros. Armani, who holds the roles of chairman, chief executive officer and inventive director of the corporate, continues to firmly uphold the worth of independence.
The expansion of direct-to-consumer sales and investments in consumer experience contributed to a solid growth of Golden Goose across geographies in the primary nine months of the 12 months.
Revenues of the Italian brand rose 19 percent to 421 million euros within the period ended Sept. 30. Compared with 2021, sales climbed 60 percent. Profitability continued to grow with the earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization margin rising to 34.8 percent.
The brand was established in 2000 and is best known for its successful Superstar sneakers and intentionally distressed styles. In 2020, the corporate was acquired by the private equity fund Permira from the Carlyle Europe Buyout fund. The worth tag was pegged at 1.28 billion euros.
Market sources say Permira is eyeing a possible sale of an IPO of Golden Goose, led by CEO Silvio Campara, and that it has tapped Lazard as an adviser. Through the WWD x SKP Fashion & Beauty Global Summit in Chengdu, China, Campara, who’s one in all the most important shareholders, said he’s open to the thought of taking the company public.
As a part of the style small cap firms, Fenicia, with its Camicissima brand, ranked first, followed by Chiara Ferragni’s TBS Crew, with its The Blonde Salad talent and marketing strategy agency. As reported, TBS Crew closed 2022 with revenues of 14.6 million euros. Ferragni can be the CEO of Fenice, parent to her namesake brand, which in June secured an investment from AVM Gestioni, which bought a 26 percent stake in a deal that valued Fenice at 75 million euros.
The Attico, founded by Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio, was within the third spot. In 2018, the Ruffini family’s Archive vehicle took a 49 percent stake within the brand to support its growth. Founded in 2016, The Attico closed 2022 with sales of 44 million euros, and exports accounted for 68 percent of the entire.
Under the sweetness umbrella, Euroitalia, founded in 1978 by Giovanni Sgariboldi and a fragrance licensee for brands starting from Versace, Moschino, Brunello Cucinelli and Dsquared2 amongst others, ranked first. Davines and Alfa Parf Group ranked second and third, respectively.
Design Holding ranked first within the design industry. The corporate includes B&B Italia, Flos, Louis Poulsen, Arclinea, Maxalto, Azucena, Audo and Lumens, and in 2021 established a three way partnership with Fendi, Fashion Furniture Design, or FF Design, to supply and distribute the brand’s Casa collections.
Asked a couple of potential IPO, CEO Daniel Lalonde said within the report that the corporate is now “totally focused on the event of the brands in our portfolio. There are still many growth opportunities in our market and for this we proceed to speculate in our expansion path.” The corporate closed 2022 with sales of 868 million euros, up 25.8 percent on 2021.
Edra and Minotti ranked second and third, respectively.
Within the wine category, Palazzo Antinori ranked first, followed by Santa Margherita Gruppo Vinicolo, owned by the Marztto family.
For the primary time, the study included the hospitality industry, with Egnathia Iniziative Turistiche and its Borgo Egnazia resort in Apulia rating first. Sardegna Resorts, with Hotel Cala di Volpe on the Costa Smeralda and Starhotels Finanziaria ranked second and third, respectively.
Pambianco considers firms with sales above 50 million euros, or for small cap, sales between 10 million and 50 million euros.
The consultancy ranked the businesses based on seven parameters: percentage growth (on this case within the 2020 to 2022 period); average earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization percentage within the three-year period; brand awareness; size; exports; distribution control (directly operated stores and e-commerce), and market positioning (high, medium, low).
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