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8 Feb

At Mido, Optical Care Inflation and Fast Cars in Focus

At Mido, Optical Care Inflation and Fast Cars in Focus

Optical Care Inflation and Fast Cars

MILAN If the Formula 1 car and simulators within the foreground were any indications, eyewear makers listed below are able to step on the gas, right out of the pandemic era.

With an eye fixed on inflation and catering to the declining vision of a digital-native generation steadily in view, exhibitors on the three-day trade show Mido were optimistic about 2023, despite an uncertain macroeconomic outlook.

Mido, which closed on Monday, registered a 60 percent rise in visitors to 35,000 versus 22,000 on the last edition held in May. Greater than 1,000 exhibitors showcased their spring 2023 collections, up from 660 exhibitors.

“We’re doing our greatest to attenuate [the impact of] inflation on consumer prices, however it’s hard to do. Up to now we now have been in a position to absorb a big a part of inflation by making a further effort to maximise efficiencies internally. Going forward it would rely on how inflation will evolve and it’s not clear. It’s like attempting to navigate COVID[-19],” said Chrystel Barranger, EssilorLuxottica president of wholesale EMEA.

In line with preliminary data released by Istat, Italy’s statistics office, the nation’s economy shrank by 0.1 percent within the fourth quarter of last 12 months from the previous three months, raising fears of recession. Energy, raw materials, transport, services, logistics and packaging “greater than doubled on average in comparison with the pre-pandemic period,” in line with Anfao, Italy’s association of eyewear manufacturers.

Industry leaders here imagine that firms should benefit from the weakened euro, to advance in key markets just like the U.S.

Anfao said “in its principal outlet market, the U.S., it [exports] will still have the ability to grow in value.  A 6 to eight percent rise is the forecast for the primary half of 2023.”

Despite cost pressures, Marchon Eyewear’s president Thomas Burkhardt said the corporate is “optimistic” in regards to the company’s performance in 2023.

“The U.S. business is robust and stays a key marketplace for Marchon. EMEA, particularly the U.K., Italy and Germany are also performing strongly. The outlook for Asia has now improved, with COVID[-19] restrictions lifting and international travel resuming,” he added.

Marchon has been focused on covering as much of the inflation and provide chain-related cost increases through being more efficient inside its internal processes. “That allowed us to maintain price increases at roughly half the speed of inflation — keeping them at 3 to 4 percent across our offerings within the U.S. and EMEA,” Birkhardt said.

Overall, exports of Italian eyewear climbed 22.5 percent in 2022 versus 2021, to about 5 billion euros, helped by the post-pandemic recovery of sunglass exports, up 28.9 percent year-over-year.

Research and development within the vision care sector and the chances offered by recent digital technologies were paramount throughout the fair.

EssilorLuxottica, which divided its space into 4 thematic areas — Committed to Vision, Advancing with Technology, Celebrating People and Beauty and 360 Expert Solutions — said optical represents around 75 percent of your complete market value.

During the fair, the corporate unveiled its latest iteration of its Varilux progressive lens — The Varilux XR series — at  Mido and at the brand new EssilorLuxottica Experience Center on Via Tortona 35. Invented in 1959, Varilux is the leading progressive lens brand worldwide. Powered by behavioral artificial intelligence, Varilux XR series is the primary eye-responsive progressive lens creating easy sharpness even in motion.

A Varilux model.

Publicly listed on the Paris Stock Exchange, EssilorLuxottica generated consolidated pro forma revenue of 21.5 billion euros in 2021. The corporate will release its full-year 2022 results on Feb. 23.

Off-site “exclusive” events also unfurled around town. At Milan’s Museum of Science and Technology, Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned Thélios met with clients in an expansive, curated space outfitted with daring offerings from its vanguard brands like Fendi, Celine, Loewe, Stella McCartney, Kenzo, Fred, Dior and Givenchy, lots of which were fashioned with recent logos to appeal to the brand new generations.

Givenchy’s Giv Cut model, first seen on singer Rosalía on the 2022 Met Gala, was on display. The corporate said the futuristic, ultra-lightweight Giv Cut is the primary 3D-printed eyewear model now being produced for retail.

In a Liberty-era constructing in Milan’s upscale residential area, macarons were served and bubbly chilled while Switzerland-based Akoni Group drew clients to a luxury showcase of their latest Made in Japan designs. Akoni, which produces Balmain and Valentino’s couture eyewear along with its own line, also hosted a display at Mido.

“The goal is to work with brands elevating eyewear,” explained chief executive officer Rosario Toscano, who said venturing into eyewear is difficult for luxury brands today. The chance goes “mass market” if not executed with the proper partner, he believes. “Japanese execute [eyewear manufacturing] with the very best level of expertise,” he contended.

At the comfy floral bistro Fiori Bianchi Caffé in Milan, São Paulo-based atelier, Lapima eyewear introduced themselves to a small circle of journalists and tastemakers before showcasing its Vela collection at Mido. Influenced by the boats and sails of Brazilian coastal towns, each design is a play on duality between rigid geometric lines and the malleability of the natural fabrics with which they’re made.

Husband-and-wife team Gustavo and Gisela Assis, a former retail entrepreneur and dancer, respectively, began their brand in 2016 with some old machinery picked up in flea markets, bolstered by the expertise of two veteran eyewear craftsmen. Since then, their surreal yet funky designs mirroring the natural wonders of Brazil and organic cellulose acetate silhouettes sculpted by hand have captivated A-listers like Anne Hathaway, Kristen Bell, Katy Perry and Cate Blanchett. “What sets us apart is that we’re really the primary independent Brazilian pioneer in eyewear,” Gustavo said.

A Nina Oliva design by Lapima.

Elsewhere, manufacturers put forth their latest innovations to cater to the world of competitive sport and racing.

To rejoice the renewal of the worldwide partnership between Web Eyewear and Alfa Romeo F1 Team Stake, the F1 show automotive was on display at Marcolin alongside the preview of the eyewear capsule dedicated to F1 pilots, consisting of two sunglasses and one optical model.

“What awaits us can be a 2023 stuffed with initiatives, through which we want to proceed our growth path, each on ESG issues and with digital transformation in view,” Marcolin’s CEO Fabrizio Curci said in an announcement.

Maintaining the pace, Safilo Group dedicated a corner to its latest Carrear|Ducati eyewear collection, with a Ducati Moto GP world champion show bike on display. Showing off its digital prowess, Safilo showcased its Digital Gallery, which allowed visitors to deep-dive into the contents of the brand’s recent campaigns and explore special digital capsules.

The Padua, Italy-based company, which joined the Fashion Pact last 12 months, insisted that sustainability continues to be a trend, as Safilo invests its efforts in developing and adopting eco-minded practices, in addition to incorporating recycled and biogenic materials.

Safilo recently reported preliminary sales figures that surpassed the benchmark of 1 billion euros in 2022, up 11.1 percent compared with 2021.

As Marchon marks 40 years, the corporate can also be embarking on an ambitious plan steeped in doing right by the planet and all people, including Marchon’s customers and employees alike, through its Eyes on Tomorrow program. The corporate is using more sustainable frames, lens and packaging solutions for patrons, incorporating materials like Eastman Acetate Renew, Tenite Renew and Tritan Renew, responsible acetate, upcycled plastic and plant-based resin. Today, Marchon’s portfolio of frames are 25 percent sustainably made and plans to grow to be 50 percent sustainable by 2025, Burkhardt said.

Calvin Klein glasses by Marchon

Longarone, Italy-based eyewear specialist De Rigo released its first collection for Barrow, the Italian brand dedicated to digital natives that was launched in 2020 by a team of creative talents with a global background in fashion and the digital sphere. Pop art and cartoonish silhouettes and colours made for a daring debut collection.

De Rigo counts the U.S. as one in every of its key markets and launched the Gap eyewear collection last 12 months. De Rigo’s executive vice chairman Maurizio Dessolis said the month of January began positively in most markets.

“It’s a positive signal, which supplies hope that the impact of the looming recession will not be as deep as expected.”

De Rigo’s Barrow design.

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