Schiaparelli opened couture week in Paris turning models into Schiaparaliens– a groundwork for Pat McGrath’s “out-of-this-world” light-catching makeup. With Rihanna front row, Dior turned to a two-step eye look which emphasized a smoky lash line. Meanwhile, the Chanel show proved big black bows are the brand new “little black dress” with ballerina beauty looks taking center stage. 

Towards the tip of the week, Simone Rocha took over Jean Paul Gaultier with folkloric beauty: crystallized eye contours and hairy bowtie earrings. Maison Margiela closed fashion week by turning models into porcelain Marie Antoinette dolls with bird’s nest hairdos– a revival of John Galliano’s AW07 show. 

Below are the must-see beauty moments from the SS24 couture week in Paris.

Schiaparelli

This season, the wonder have a look at Schiaparelli was “all about structuring the face with light to create a very out-of-this world effect,” makeup artist Pat McGrath says in a press release. With anticipation at a fever-pitch, the show’s makeup informed a set linked to space and astrology, which the designer says “has at all times been an off-the-cuff code of the Maison.”

As a nod to that, McGrath turned models into Schiaparaliens with Sublime Skin Highlighter to sculpt multidimensional cheekbones before thumbing the Highlighter + Balm Duo on top. Fusing old-world couture with latest world techniques, their eyelids were topped off with the Mothership I and V palettes for a gold-and-pearl shimmer, while their brows were lightened and toned. 

But probably the most “cosmic couture accessory” of all of them? While holding an electrode-encrusted baby, considered one of the models had her left ear coated in a whole bunch of crystals which took makeup artists over two-hours handy craft. But that’s what couture is all about, right?

Dior

When Rihanna arrived at Dior couture we knew it will be a show. The brand’s first Black ambassador’s romantic beauty look– black-lined lips and doll-like blush– predicted the extraordinary and soft makeup within the French house’s latest collection. “It’s a two-step eye look,” Dior Makeup Director, Peter Philips says within the press release. 

Underneath gorgeous cornrows were eyes smudged with a smoky linker on the lower lash line.  He “emphasized [the look] with a powerful line of Diorshow On Stage Crayon in #099 Black, then the sunshine brown shade from the Diorshow 5 Couleurs in #539 Grand Bal palette, which I applied along the upper lash line.” For a touch of brightness, he applied a pale powdery shade on the eyelid’s center, ending the look with structured eyebrows and a “pure and luminous” complexion. 

Chanel

Creative Director of Chanel, Virginie Viard revisited the female ribbons wherein Coco Chanel snipped in an ode to balletcore. The show– which was prefaced by a brief film Naomi Campbell, Kendrick Lamar, and Dave Free collaborated with Chanel on– was centered around a dangling button which represented “beauty throughout the imperfections of time.” To pair with tutu skirts and white tights, the hair and makeup channeled ballerinas, who took to the stage like clockwork.

Black bows with coquettish fabric were pinned into their coiffed, half-up hairstyles. The female details included feathered brows– which were held in place with the Longwear Eyebrow Gel– and flushed cheeks, absent of the doll-like blush we can have expected from the frilled looks. As a substitute, the makeup artists used the home’s Baume Essential within the shade “Lilas” to sculpt across the models’ cheekbones and eyes for a reflective, mermaid-esque beauty look.

Jean Paul Gaultier

This season’s Guest Couturier at Jean Paul Gaultier was Simone Rocha, a designer who delivered her romanticized, coquettish looks to Parisian high fashion. Drawing in a fancy front row– including Jordyn Woods, Shygirl and PinkPantheress– the invitees witnessed Rocha’s folkloric, bow-adorned fairytale first hand (and the wonder looks that spun out of it). 

Makeup Artist Thomas De Kluyver ornamented the models’ lips, eyes, and brows with baroque silver, red, and black jewels. Scarlet crystals contoured their skin, while jewels encrusted their nails. To top all of it off, some models rocked bow earrings, which took a page out of the folkloric book Simone Rocha is understood for.

Maison Margiela

Maison Margiela’s SS24 couture collection was all about fantasy, emotion, and memories. Presented at Pont Alexandre III– a bridge models appeared to have stumbled onto from a brothel– Galliano tightly cinched right into a bustier the waists of lollygagging, rag dollish models, who sat on padded bums. So as to add to the combo, makeup artist Pat McGrath added to the drunken elegance with porcelain doll-like makeup, due to serum-slugged faces due to the Divine Skin: Rose 001TM The Essence.

The Marie Antoinette-esque look– peach-toned blush, blue eyeshadows (from McGrath LABS Mothership I palette), pin-thin eyebrows, and heart-shaped MatteTrance lipstick – complemented birds nest updos and greasy, aristocratic wigs. Pointless to say, the show was one for the books– marking an undeniable high point for the home, which ended up being a dark, rainy update to his AW07 collection.