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26 May

CFDA’s American Auction, Saint Martins’ Winner, Ramy Brook’s Hamptons Home

CFDA’s American Auction, Saint Martins’ Winner, Ramy Brook’s Hamptons Home

AMERICAN AUCTION: For the primary time, Sotheby’s and the Council of Fashion Designers of America are partnering on an exclusive auction to supply looks from America’s top designers, featuring famous designs and rare pieces donated by CFDA members and collectors of American fashion.

The exhibition will highlight the genres and time periods which have made American fashion diverse and influential, from memorable red carpet looks to streetwear. Further details will likely be available closer to the auction.

The CFDA will work with a curator to place together the auction lots.

The auction will happen at Sotheby’s from Nov. 27 through Dec. 12 alongside the corporate’s Luxury Week sale in Recent York. The auction can have an internet component, and it hasn’t been determined if there will likely be a live auction.

All proceeds from the sale will go to the CFDA Foundation, which advantages CFDA Scholarships and business mentoring to nurture the subsequent generation of American fashion. — LISA LOCKWOOD

EDEN TAN’S WIN: Central Saint Martins’ annual BA graduate show saw students pushing the boundaries of fashion with unique textiles, silhouettes and techniques.

Held contained in the Granary Square campus in Kings Cross, the 134-graduate showcase actually lived as much as the style school’s popularity as “the world’s biggest factory for making trouble” as its current chancellor, Grayson Perry describes the varsity.

Menswear designer Eden Tan took home the highest honor of the L’Oréal Professionnel Young Talent Award. His collection, titled “On Borrowed Fabric,” centers around sustainability, drawing on his hobby of tinkering to develop latest techniques.

Eden Tan, winner of the L’Oréal Professionnel Young Talent Award at Central Saint Martins’ BA graduate show.

Tianwei Zhang

Each look from his collection was crafted out of an uncut roll of cloth, a few of which were then airbrushed to create a trompe l’oeil effect.

“The motivation of the gathering was the opportunity of making clothes which could possibly be as easily reprocessed into latest garments as if the material had never passed through my hands,” Tan explained to WWD.

“This meant developing an arsenal of techniques with the aim of convincing the attention that what it’s seeing is greater than only a roll of cloth,” he added.

Runners up for the L’Oréal prize were womenswear designers Alba Mas Amoros, who got here in second place, and Ivan Delogu, who got here in third.

Other standouts included Sarabande award winner and womenswear designer Sam Crabbe’s collection, which featured elevated classic wardrobe staples with architectural twists.

In a single look, long, lime green silk trousers draped across the models’ legs paired with a gray bandeau top that had protrusions jutting from it. Within the model’s hands was a sparkling pink bag, in a shape harking back to a bird’s wing.

“It’s a few childhood fascination with birds of prey, particularly the peregrine falcon,” the designer said. “To me, they represent the epitome of agility, fluidity and freedom, which is what I desired to portray on this collection.”

Sofia Castellon, recipient of the Nina Steward Award, and who’s graduating from the knitwear pathway, derived inspiration from her Mexican American identity.

Her work experimented with elastic in knitwear, allowing her textiles, which got here in shades of pink, blue and white, to be contorted over metal and plastic structures. Also incorporated in her work were a wide range of personal materials.

“Over the course of the past few years, I collected ‘milagros,’ which translates to ‘miracles,’” Castellon explained.

“They’re silver charms from my hometown, Mexico City, Mexico. I knitted them in a way that will create a mesmerizing glimmer and jingle,” she said.

In the course of the show, calamity struck when a knitwear designer had his models pour cigarette butts over the runway, a few of which flew onto the group. BA fashion design pathway leader Sarah Gresty was immediately on the scene, amongst others, clearing the runway for the upcoming models. — TIANWEI ZHANG

HITTING THE HAMPTONS: Ramy Brook, the ladies’s contemporary brand, will open a year-round shop in Southampton, Recent York, on Friday.

The 1,320-square foot store, situated at 44 Primary Street, features Ramy Brook styles, together with exclusive items sold only at this location. As well as, the shop carries the newly launched kids’ collection, Sequin, the third jewelry collection for the brand and Wolven, an activewear capsule.

The space was previously occupied by Chaser Southampton.

Ramy Brook in Southampton

A view of Ramy Brook’s latest store in Southampton.

courtesy shot.

The brand decided to open this location due to success of its previous pop-up store at 28B Jobs Lane in Southampton the past two summers, which stayed open from Memorial Day through Labor Day and was the brand’s first pop-up.

“Our previous pop-up was an incredible experience,” said Ramy Sharp, president and inventive director of Ramy Brook. “Southampton is home to many brands in our contemporary category, and we discover it delightful that lots of them are our neighbors and we love the patrons.”

Along with its latest Southampton shop, Ramy Brook has a everlasting location at 980 Madison Avenue in Recent York.

The brand new Southampton boutique contains a “beachy/glam vibe” with a lightweight wood floor and a hang rail system that mimics sun-bleached driftwood. The design is embellished with signature Ramy Brook gold details and pops of Ramy Brook orange. — L.L.

CELEBRATING BAGS: The ultimate event of the Think Bag competition, sponsored by Leather & Luxury magazine and the Florentine leather goods company Loipell, was held Wednesday in Florence on the Villa Favard campus. The competition involved the scholars of the master in bag design on the Florence-based fashion and design institute Polimoda.

On this occasion, the Choi Bag by the Korean student Daseul Choi was named the winner of the project. 

Choi designed a bag with delicate shapes and an progressive design, in black nappa leather with a steel handle. “For this project I combined my experience in fabrics with a passion for leather and patterns,” said the young designer. “The geometric overlaps of the handle of my bag recall the feathers of a bird, symbol of my brand, while the design pays homage to the breathtaking great thing about the Vatican City seen from above.” 

The award comes with the production of a limited edition of the bag by Loipell to be distributed in September in retail stores resembling Mantovani and Playground. Before being up on the market, the bag will likely be presented at Mipel, the handbags and accessories trade show, and Lineapelle, the leather trade show, by Leather & Luxury.

The proceeds from the sale will likely be entirely donated to the Meyer Pediatric Hospital Foundation to support the hospital’s diabetes research. 

Choi may even profit from an internship at British menswear brand Dunhill, which supported the project with a lesson on the creative process held by Attilio Rebuglio, Dunhill’s head of leather goods design, and Nicola Scarpini, leather goods industrial director on the brand.

The Think Bag contest was founded in 2021 to ask young talents to design and create a bag evaluating budgets, timing and difficulties of developing their very own idea and prototype.

During this third edition, begun in February, seven different prototypes were created, each developed by seven students from different countries. Along the way in which, the scholars attended workshops held by Florentine corporations which have joined the project, resembling Air Collection and Creazioni Lorenza, amongst others. The baggage were presented in front of a jury of experts which included Leonardo Campidelli, chief supply chain officer at Dunhill, and Scarpini.

The jury evaluated the projects under the six criteria of presentation, functionality, design, originality, brand identity and feasibility. — ANDREA ONATE

Choi Bag

Choi Bag

Courtesy Image/Patrizio Marcocci

BACK IN SAG HARBOR: A long time, the vintage retail store, will return to Sage & Madison at 31 Madison Street in Sag Harbor for the second annual East Coast summer fashion residency, starting June 26.

Curated by Cameron Silver, founding father of A long time in Los Angeles, the summer-long boutique at Sage & Madison will showcase a group of vintage and archival pieces from such fashion brands as Chanel, Dior, Gucci, Hermès, and Valentino. Sage & Madison may even host a series of weekly pop-up boutiques featuring brands including Jean Paul Gaultier, Etro, Jil Sander and Marni, amongst others running concurrently with the A long time residency.

SAG HARBOR, NEW YORK - AUGUST 06: Cameron Silver and Julianne Moore attend Live Rocket Studios- Cameron Silver-EBTH Gowns for Good-at Sage and Madison on August 06, 2022 in Sag Harbor, New York. (Photo by Jared Siskin/Getty Images for Live Rocket)

Cameron Silver and Julianne Moore at a Live Rocket Studios, A long time and EBTH Gowns for Good event at Sage & Madison last August.

Getty Images for Live Rocket

Silver said he selected to return to Sage & Madison attributable to the “overwhelming success of last yr’s debut.”

The residency kicks off with a three-day exhibition of Jean Paul Gaultier high fashion. The luxurious garden will host a pop-up from Bogner, featuring the brand’s golf and sport collections. From June 29 to July 3, Ala von Ausberg will present her resortwear including original prints in silks and chiffon.

The lineup of designers for the A long time residency includes St John (July 16 to 23); Jil Sander (July 24 to 31); Libertine, in collaboration with Portuguese high jeweler Rosior (Aug. 1 to 7); Etro (Aug. 8 to fifteen), and Marni (Aug. 16 to Sept. 4).

Asked why he desired to bring A long time to Sag Harbor, Silver said: “A long time has a powerful following within the Hamptons and my clients gravitate toward an intimate and exclusive shopping experience which is provided inside Sage & Madison’s 18th-century partitions. Sag Harbor stays probably the most charming destination within the Hamptons and it’s wonderful to ask a few of my favorite international luxury brands to pop up with me over the summer.

“We’ll get people dressed for his or her morning Tracy Anderson class, lunch at Le Bilboquet, something avant garde to wear to the Watermill Center Gala, and ready for any occasion all summer,” added Silver, who has a latest book coming out next April titled, “Caftans: From Classic to Camp,” that will likely be published by Vendome Press. — L.L.

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