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28 Dec

Chanel’s Jewelry Book, All About Madonna, Cardin’s Swordplay

Jewelry Book

Jewelry Book SPARKLING HISTORY: To mark the 90 years since Gabrielle Chanel launched her first diamond designs, a recent volume titled “Chanel Haute Joaillerie” is slated for release in December.

As a suggestion of those nine a long time are the words of the couturier herself, who said she “used [her] penchant for all that shines to attempt to reconcile elegance and fashion in a set of bijou.”

The high jewelry designs are, in fact, given pride of place throughout the amount’s 518 illustrations. First come the 1932 “Bijoux de Diamants” pieces designed by Chanel herself, most of which have been taken apart or have been lost to time.

The duvet of the upcoming Chanel high jewelry book.

Courtesy of Chanel

Mirroring this primary for the home is its latest offering, the “1932” collection unveiled last May and imagined by the home’s jewelry creation studio director Patrice Leguéreau.

One other highlight is the 55.55 necklace, with its perfect octagonal-shaped diamond weighing exactly 55.55 carats, a design marking the centenary last yr of the home’s famed No.5, and which is now a part of Chanel’s patrimonial collection.

Over the course of 4 chapters and 528 pages, the origins, symbols, spirit and allure of the home’s designs are explored through texts and pictures drawn from the Chanel archives, including preparatory sketches and images.

Amongst the numerous photographers who’ve captured this glittering aspect of Chanel are Karl Lagerfeld, Mario Testino, Patrick Demarchelier, Horst P. Horst, Sarah Moon and Dominique Issermann, with their images giving life to those precious designs throughout the book.

“Chanel Haute Joaillerie” will initially be released by Thames & Hudson in France and the U.K. in December, priced at 150 euros or British kilos. It’ll be published in China, South Korea and Japan in January, and available within the U.S. in March for $200. — LILY TEMPLETON

ALL ABOUT MADONNA: On easily the busiest night Art Basel Miami Beach has seen up to now, Saint Laurent drew a particular crowd out onto the beach for a viewing well value waiting in traffic for. Curated by Saint Laurent’s Anthony Vacarello, the brand presented an exhibition of Steve Miesel’s iconic 1992 photography book “Sex,” featuring quite a few photographs of Madonna.

Anja Rubik, Hailey Bieber, Anthony Vacarello and Zoe Kravitz at the 'Sex' Saint Laurent x Madonna party.

Anja Rubik, Hailey Bieber, Anthony Vacarello and Zoë Kravitz on the “Sex” Saint Laurent x Madonna party.

Thirty years later, the photographs still have as much impact as ever, and on display in large scale on the partitions of the pop-up construction they demanded one’s attention. Vacarello was in attendance for the opening party Thursday night (the exhibit will ran through Sunday) and Madonna herself made an appearance on the party to see her images. Other guests included Zoë Kravitz, Laura Harrier, Hailey Bieber, Rauw Alejandro, Adwoa Aboah, Anja Rubik, Alek Wek, Evan Mock, Grace VanderWaal and Charlotte Lawrence, in addition to designers Raf Simons and Riccardo Tisci.

After taking within the photos the group was golf-carted down the beach to a breezy oasis where cocktails and bites were served amid candlelight and a rolling video of behind-the-scenes looks on the photos. — LEIGH NORDSTROM

MAKING A POINT: Probably the most unusual accessories spotted at a Pierre Cardin black-tie gala on Friday night in Paris weren’t Space Age sunglasses, but quite ceremonial swords.

Organized exactly 30 years to the day because the late designer was inducted into the celebrated Académie des Beaux-Arts, the event at Maxim’s attracted many Immortals, the title given to residents inducted into any of the Institut de France’s five academies. Established in 1795, the Institut is a learned society that also manages foundations, museums and chateaus.

Cardin, who died in 2020 at age 98, was the primary couturier to be inducted, and the academy continues to award a design prize in his name. Indeed, it was so meaningful to the Itallian-born fashion maverick that he was buried in his ceremonial uniform, decorated with embroideries of olive branches, and his sword.

Cardin also staged his seventieth anniversary on the gold-domed Institut de France, which houses the Académie Francaise that governs the language.

“It was so essential to him,” said his nephew Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin, president and artistic director of Pierre Cardin, who wrote the foreword for a recent velvet-covered tome detailing the milestone.

Jacques Rougerie and Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin

Julien Hekimian

But knowing Cardin all the time liked to look to the longer term, Basilicati-Cardin invited a bunch of figures from the aerospace industry to the celebration, and likewise French architect Jacques Rougerie, who hopes his flagship project SeaOrbiter — a semi-submersible research vessel that resembles a futuristic robot seahorse — will come to fruition soon.

Artist Jean-Michel Othoniel, who was inducted into the Académie des Beaux-Arts in 2021 wearing a uniform by Dior’s Kim Jones, revealed that he would open a recent artistic residency program for the academy next April.

It’ll be housed in a small chateau outside of Paris, where 10 young artists — including painters, sculptors, musicians and engravers — will work toward a bunch show.

“It’ll be very exciting. It’s this concept of transmission. It was the goal of Monsieur Cardin,” he said.

Othoniel said he’s also working on a project for the Brooklyn Botanic Garden adjoining to the Brooklyn Museum. He said he would “play with the ponds” and unveil the brand new works in the autumn of 2023. — MILES SOCHA

DEEDA’S DAY: “I never wanted to write down a book,” confessed society doyenne Deeda Blair on Thursday. “I used to be all the time more interested by reading than writing.”

Her latest project begs to differ.

Jo Carole Lauder, Deeda Blair and Bob Colacello.

Jo Carole Lauder, Deeda Blair and Bob Colacello.

Photo courtesy of Christie’s/Rupert Ramsay/BFA.com

Blair, bouffant and all, held court at a luncheon at Christie’s in Latest York on Thursday to have a good time the discharge of “Deeda Blair: Food, Flowers & Fantasy,” her coffee-table book published by Rizzoli in November.

Aerin Lauder, Colby Mugrabi, Lauren Santo Domingo

Aerin Lauder, Colby Mugrabi and Lauren Santo Domingo.

Photo courtesy of Christie’s/Rupert Ramsay/BFA.com

The tome’s subject material ranges from recipes and table settings to vignettes from Blair’s life as a globetrotting socialite. The book’s proceeds, though, pay homage to her philanthropy: They profit the Deeda Blair Research Initiative for Disorders of the Brain, which she established in 2016 with the Foundation for the National Institutes of Health.

“It’s ostensibly about food and entertaining, nevertheless it’s so way more. It’s a rallying cry for thus lots of the scientific causes for which Deeda has devoted a lot passion and her life to: from brain disorders to AIDS and cancer,” said Will Stratford, a deputy chairman on the auction house, firstly of the meal.

Attendees included Christie’s brass in addition to Aerin Lauder, Lauren Santo Domingo, Adam Lippes, Daniel Romualdez and Bob Colacello.

“She has an incredible sense of fashion, she’s warm and stylish,” Lauder said of Blair. “I met her through friends, and he or she is such an inspiration in every aspect.”

To that end, Jennifer Hall, vice chairman of Christie’s, said Blair’s encyclopedic knowledge of art and history was the bedrock of their relationship. “Christie’s loves her a lot because while she is thought for her fashion, her knowledge of art, literature and history is bar none,” she said. “She applies that very same beautiful mind to her research in science.” — JAMES MANSO

ROWLEY’S DROP: Starting Monday, Cynthia Rowley’s exclusive collection of “girly-meets-sporty” clothing shall be on Amazon’s The Drop for a limited time (30 hours or less). The nine-piece collection may have items all under $100 and range in size from XXS to 5X.

Products in the gathering include a silky top and pant set, a slipdress, a tulle miniskirt, a fleece minidress, a stripe jersey T-shirt, amongst other items. “This collection is crammed with street to sleep, cozy to cocktails, pretty pieces to decorate up or simply sit back in. They’re mixable, packable and pure fun,” Rowley said.

A glance from Cynthia Rowley.

The have a good time the launch, Rowley’s daughter, Kit Keenan, who was a former contestant on “The Bachelor” and is an influencer, will model the gathering on social media.

The Drop is as trend-focused, street-style-inspired fashion destination exclusive to Amazon. — LISA LOCKWOOD

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