PARIS — The chaos of the lads’s fashion week — the primary fully back edition after years of partially online shows — had a palpable air of overwhelm at times. A transport strike didn’t help, which shut down the metro and filled the streets with protesters on day three. It wasn’t lost on the buyers.

“Between men’s fashion week, the Maison & Objet fair, contemporary art events and couture arriving, there was and is quite a bit occurring. Shows, showrooms, dinners, parties — even greater than in pre-COVID[-19] times. So it was very soothing to see relatively soft, poetic and fluid fashion show settings and visions for fall-winter 2023. There’s a craving for serenity,” said Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner of The Square Berlin.

That played out within the presentations as well. “We’re in a period of uncertainty — economic, environmental — and tellingly this was a season not of grand, artistic statements but of reassuring, cozy comfort,” said Luke Raymond, senior menswear lead at Farfetch.

What was most noted amongst buyers polled by WWD was the return of suiting and tailoring, a long-gestating trend that has come to the forefront this season. While there have been still streetwear elements, many buyers seemed keen to retire the emblem and search out more formal and classic codes. Coats were essentially the most mentioned item from buyers.

The combo of music and spectacle was also noted, as shows seek to face out on the crowded calendar.

From Louis Vuitton’s first “guest designer” in KidSuper’s Colm Dillane and his extraordinary set designed by Michel and Olivier Gondry and a performance from Rosalía, to his KidSuper show itself — a standup comedy act featuring Tyra Banks, the week was awash in latest formats and stunning visuals.

Kim Jones’ Dior and Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe collections proved to be the preferred of the week. Buyers looked to Anderson’s outerwear of voluminous puffers, floor-length tailored cots and exaggerated frock coats. “We all know to expect the unexpected and he never disappoints,” said Simon Longland, head of menswear and womenswear at Harrods of Anderson.

Rick Owens was also praised by many, cited for his “mastery of proportion and his singular vision,” said Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman.

Newcomer Wales Bonner was also successful, with several buyers calling her “refined, elegant and elevated” collection top-of-the-line of the week. “The homes should come knocking,” added Raymond.

Amiri and Saint Laurent were also standouts among the many week for buyers, while Sacai was praised for its Carhartt capsule.

Andrea Burbi, buyer and brand collaboration, Luisa Via Roma:

Favorite collections: I’m very attached to Margiela, Yohji Yamamoto and Dries Van Noten. But for this season I might say Casablanca, also considering the precise message that Charaf [Tajer] wanted to provide before the show began.

Best show format: KidSuper. People get bored easily nowadays and Colm knows it well. Because of his versatility, since last season he proposes fashion shows which are truly something you can’t miss.

Top trends: I saw loads of layers, going to create large volumes, especially on the bottoms with pants and shorts together or a skirt. Confirmed also the will for jackets and suits.

Must-have item(s): Skirt. I even have already seen quite a bit in Milan on the road and in addition here in Paris on the catwalks. Probably an involuntary homage to Vivienne [Westwood].

Budgets up or down: Even for this season we’ll proceed to extend our open to purchase.

Recent talent: I wasn’t particularly impressed by anyone. I’m curious to see how Bluemarble and Hed Mayner will develop since people talk quite a bit about them.

Impressions of the week: It’s a specific historical moment, especially with so many vacant positions on the helm of some fashion houses. Although we don’t discuss it an excessive amount of, I feel that insiders are somewhat apprehensive about it, waiting for something to occur that may bring some news.

Reginald Christian, men’s fashion market manager, Saks:

Favorite collection(s): Loewe, Bode, Saint Laurent, Dior, Amiri, Ami

Best show format: With electric drums at the middle of the room and a standing-only format, the Dries Van Noten show felt like a fashion rave. Charaf Tajer delivered a group of hope and love at Casablanca. Before the show began, Charaf delivered a sentimental speech encouraging us to hunt humanity in all relationships and other people.

Top trends: As seen in Milan, the topcoat stays a very powerful item for the autumn season. Sacai and Loewe showcased topcoats in nonchalant silhouettes and upstanding fabrics, offering a flexible assortment for our customers. The ditch jacket has been updated to reflect the evolution of our customer’s wardrobe, seen at Lemaire, Ami and Loewe. The return of dressing is one other exciting moment for menswear, driven by minimalistic tailoring.

Must-have item(s): A supersized puzzle tote bag from Loewe, a brown embossed suede blazer from Bode and a pair of relaxed pleated trousers from Officine Générale.

Recent talent: Ernest W. Baker offered unexpected design twists inspired by Seventies fashion that were each contemporary and impressively cool. EgonLab’s collection brought a dynamic perspective to menswear that boldly infused avant-garde with original designs. Hed Mayner delivered a pleasant lineup of quaint essentials and breathtaking volumes and shapes.

Impressions of the week: Cultural shifts were seen in Loewe’s unusually improbable and thought-provoking collection and Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s display of glamorous, sexy pieces because the designer continues to widen the categorization of menswear. Emily Adams Bode Aujla was truly the “American in Paris,” offering a powerful collection of feel-good clothing for Bode that brought the brand’s signature styles like outerwear and relaxed trousers to the following level with impeccable craftsmanship and detail. It was a moving week filled with thoughtful design and collections that addressed the aspirations of our modern menswear customers. The live music featured at lots of the runway shows this week wrapped art, fashion and commerce together in one of the simplest ways.

Laura Darmon, buyer director and business development, ENG:

Favorite collection(s): Saint Laurent, Rick Owens, Givenchy, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Loewe, Wales Bonner.

Best show format: KidSuper, definitely, who delivered his show through a comedy one-man show, a show format which is modern and after all funny because fashion shouldn’t be taken so seriously.

Marine Serre, who beside the large venue surrounded by huge piles of scarf and denim deadstock, managed to directly transmit her clear vision trough the music, the curation and after all the clothes! Special appreciation for offering 1,000 tickets to a nonprofessional audience, definitely something that must be more explored in fashion.

Top trends: I noticed loads of collections had this type of grunge aesthetic by some means through cut, colours and prints. By way of proportions, a relation to the quantity, which could be very obvious and simple — oversized top with slim bottom and opposite.

Must-have item(s): Rick Owens’ orthopedics platform boots!

Budgets up or down: Up! Just opened our latest Nanjing store and more to come back …

Recent talent: Undoubtedly Juntae Kim, who held his showroom in Paris for his third collection. Titled “The brand new preppy,” his designs are only amazing, mixing some historical women references reminiscent of corset lines and structures with a masculine modern touch as a way to reinvent gender-fluid silhouettes! Alongside his creativity, prime quality level fabrics and finishings, so definitely a brand to maintain eye on!

Impressions of the week: All of the brands are proposing something fresh and it feels great from a buyer perspective!

Victoria Dartigues, merchandising director fashion and accessories, La Samaritaine:

Favorite collection(s): Wales Bonner, Dior, Botter

Best show format: Lemaire on the terrace of the Pierre et Marie Curie University: The set of the show felt like an immersive moment reflecting a living picture of reality with models crossing paths, interacting with one another in a really natural way. The Opéra Bastille was an impressive selection of location to showcase Ami’s Parisian chic.

Top trends: FW23 is an ode to minimalist and functional outerwear whilst being highly aesthetic from on a regular basis wear to eveningwear, blurring the boundaries between genders. Over and exaggerated layering with double collars, scarves, giving an additional dimension to comfort while keeping a powerful attitude. As a key color of the season, chocolate is becoming an important.

Must-have item(s): Fluffy knit, men’s skirt, knee-length shorts and loose-fitting coats. Less sneakers and more boots and derbies.

Budgets up or down: Up obviously! 2023 is filled with hope for traffic to be back on the right track in Paris especially with the primary trends of international travelers returning to the City of Light for the physical shopping experiences.

Impressions of the week: Paris keeps its luxurious grandeur but gives today an actual visibility to young designers who, beyond presenting ultra-creative collections, show an actual capability to propose business collections.

Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner of The Square Berlin 

Favorite collection(s): Dior, Saint Laurent, Loewe, Givenchy, Sacai and Ami.

Best show format: The Dior show was so fascinating. Your entire performance was outstanding. The screens, the music, the poetry and the garments — the dialogs between these 4 elements was completely unique and really inspiring.

Top trends: Elevated dressing — gender-fluid clothing and layering.

Must-have item(s): Skirts with pants and hulking boots. Many bags, as well.

Budgets up or down: Budgets are up in Paris.

Recent talent: I actually just like the Ludovic de Saint Sernin fashion approach to gender fluidity.

Jian DeLeon, men’s fashion and editorial director, Nordstrom:

Favorite collection(s): Sacai, Bode, Rick Owens, Wales Bonner, Kenzo, Nicholas Daley, Dries Van Noten, Undercover, Amiri, Lemaire.

Best show format: Kenzo and Bode were among the many crop who showed their collections in a theater, with Bode making a custom set and opening with a sentimental message that set the nostalgic tone of the show. The result was mesmerizing.

Top trends: Shearling jackets were distinguished on and off the runway, and the chilly Parisian weather only reinforced the will for heavy-duty cold weather attire.

Must-have item(s): The coats from Lemaire are all the time immediately seductive. There have been also some statement floral prints from Dries Van Noten that add some much-needed brightness to the winter wardrobe.

Recent talent: Chaz Jordan’s 1989 Studio made its runway debut with a show attended by loads of his contemporaries from the world of street fashion. The *NSYNC collaboration was a welcome surprise in an austere, mostly black debut. Winnie Recent York stays a label to look at, with a singular menswear perspective that brings a latest sort of youthful energy.

Impressions of the week: Paris all the time appears like a marathon, however the exuberant energy that began the lads’s season at Pitti has actually continued to course through the bustling Parisian streets. Fall will likely be a stronger season for menswear, with its penchant for layering and heavier fabrics, and this season has been a welcome jolt of rejuvenation in additional ways than one.

Alice Feillard, head of menswear and buying director, Galeries Lafayette

Favorite collections: Loewe, Lemaire, Saint Laurent, Hed Mayner and Officine Générale.

Best show formats: Lemaire’s chic and nonchalant, very Parisian outside presentation at Jussieu university. The Ami show at Opéra Bastille, where the general public was on stage. Alexandre Mattiussi offered an easy collection filled with great classics. Marine Serre’s impactful set and message, with huge deadstock towers of denim, scarves and tote bags.

Top trends: A season filled with impeccable sophisticated and tailored silhouettes. There is certainly a return to a more formal wardrobe after years of streetwear. Suits are back! The important thing look of the season: a protracted coat worn over a loose double-breasted jacket with pleated, wide-leg trousers. An awesome season for shearlings and exquisite coats. We saw loads of luxurious and refined fabrics, reminiscent of double-face cashmere, flannel and leather. Monochromatic full looks and neutral colours: a clean palette of chocolate brown, light khaki, gray, navy and butter, with touches of pink and vanilla — and loads of black.

Must-have item(s): A relaxed suit — a loose jacket, dropped shoulder and deconstructed, worn with pleated wide-leg trousers — from Dior men, Officine Générale, Ami or Wooyoungmi. Lemaire oversized cardigans. A protracted slim coat and an XL leather cabas from Loewe. A protracted overcoat and a shearling bomber jacket from Ami. Wide-leg leather trousers and cargo pants from Amiri.

Budgets up or down: Up.

Recent talent: Aalto Recoded, for our second season. It’s a totally upcycled, creative, yet accessible collection. We’re developing brands that we stock with collections we particularly loved this season: Hed Mayner, EgonLab and Botter.

Impressions of the week: A Parisian chic and charming flavor was everywhere in the shows. Paris offered a powerful season for elegance, refined tailoring, but additionally real fashion. Less is more — also seen in Milan — a return to fundamental classics with an ideal wardrobe of impeccable pieces, with a pointy and complicated minimalism. Men want to decorate up.

Tyler Franch, vp, fashion director at Hudson’s Bay Company

Favorite collection(s): Loewe, Lemaire, Wales Bonner, Rick Owens, EgonLab, Saint Laurent and Sacai.

Best show format: Even though it was a really brisk morning, the Lemaire show set outside on the University Pierre had us transported to a really busy and really chic Paris morning commute. The models each grouped together and solo walked freely through the rooftop space, reminding us that the early morning dream is to be effortlessly put together and bundled up through the early winter mornings to come back.

Top trends: Recent types of tailoring, hero outerwear, designer denim, fluid tops, wider pants, clean lines, latest minimalism, the return of elegance for evening and the dress shoe.

Must-have item(s): A protracted tailored coat with a powerful shoulder and clean lines in luxe wool, shearling, leather or cashmere.

Recent talent: Although Grace Wales Bonner isn’t any longer considered a latest talent, she kicked off Paris Fashion Week with certainly one of my favorite shows of the season. Her tackle romanticism and poetic dressing for evening, that looked each effortless and tres chic, appears like she is guiding our guy into the long run with confidence, poise and intellect.

Impressions of the week: Traditional rules of dressing are being replaced with a possibility and platform to embrace one’s individual style and tackle what items can mean to a menswear wardrobe. As tailoring has been invested into the stores and the client demand continues to rise, there’s a singular opportunity for brand spanking new suits and categories within the offering to service the following generation. The probabilities feel limitless, which is each exciting and unsure as we move right into a moment where emotion will drive purchase decisions balanced with needs of wants.

Laura Larbalestier, fashion director of Harvey Nichols Group:

Favorite collection(s): Loewe, Wales Bonner, Dries van Noten.

Best show format: This season it was less concerning the format, and all concerning the live performance.

Top trends: Men’s this season felt softer and positively more elevated. It was less about must-have items, and an evolution to something softer, with more oversized silhouettes from pants to coats.

Must-have item(s): Tailoring and coats.

Impressions of the week: It was very busy. There have been so many amazing shows. It felt as strong as women’s.

Simon Longland, head of menswear and womenswear at Harrods:

Favorite collection(s): Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, Kim Jones at Dior, Rick Owens.

Top trends: Wide trousers are here to remain, and this week we saw a few of the perfect silhouettes in myriad wealthy fabrications, from Dior’s dramatically wide and fluid options to casual denim options at Wooyoungmi. This can be a trend that has earned its place in seasons to come back. Outerwear reigned supreme this season and we saw among the most striking coats to this point.

Must-have item(s): I expect we’ll see an enormous interest in floor-length tailored overcoats, wide fluid trousers and shirting next season, adding a more dressed-up approach to the winter wardrobe.

Impressions of the week: Overall, the mood has solidified the trends and direction that we have now seen in menswear over the past 12 months: a more grown up, sophisticated and stylish approach to dressing. It’s not stiff or classic in any respect, but a latest approach to masculinity. Men are more comfy now greater than ever with dressing up for themselves, and never only for the occasion.

Federica Montelli, head of fashion, La Rinascente:

Favorite collections: Loewe, Dior, Dries Van Noten, Ami, Givenchy, Lemaire and Marine Serre were my favorites. Louis Vuitton’s Colm Dillane collection was a pleasing surprise and confirmed a positive direction for the brand within the name of collaborations. Botter and Ludovic de Saint Sernin proceed to shine among the many younger generation of designers.

Best show formats: Lemaire’s “cinematic” morning at La Sorbonne was a really immersive experience. It managed to inform a story and convey clothes to life with the dynamism of models as actors on the runway — on a really chilly Wednesday morning! Nevertheless, one theme particularly emerged from the shows: the link between fashion and music proved strong in the numerous live performances. All price mentioning were the rave-like duo at Dries Van Noten, Ami’s languid performance by Moses and Kenzo’s Beatles-inspired string quartet.

Top trends: Tailoring, Brit-cool — from country to punk — juxtaposed with an underground subculture vibe were the foremost inspirations behind the collections. Several brands went on to experiment with a increasingly gender-fluid aesthetic, and quite a couple of of them really pushed the “queer” aspect. Knitwear, long woolen coats, wide pants and shearling jackets were among the many top items.

Must-have item(s): An additional-long coat, as seen at Loewe, or a black suit, a glance that either opened or in any case was present in virtually all shows. For shoes, each chunky booties and slim Beatles styles, while for accessories, an oversized tote.

Budgets up or down: We’re investing heavily in men’s fashion and accessories, with a positive outlook for fall-winter 2023-2024.

Impressions of the week: Brands generally showed solid collections, and from the buyers’ perspective it is strictly what we’re on the lookout for. Perhaps I used to be expecting more groundbreaking concepts or trends coming up, as Paris closes the lads’s season, but commercially speaking, we have now seen plenty of beautiful products that the end-client — especially the posh one — will appreciate.

Bosse Myhr, director of womenswear and menswear, Selfridges:

Favorite collection: Dior, Sacai.

Best show format: The physical fashion show format is back, and there’s an increasing presence of video in the style shows. Some incredible sets were built by Louis Vuitton, and there was an art background at Loewe.

Top trends: Sophisticated tailoring, and a more grown-up aesthetic alongside tonal colours. Grays, beiges and anthracite were amongst essentially the most present trends. There have been layers of all shapes and forms — skirts, triple T-shirts, shorts on top of trousers. That was one other key trend. Collaborations are also back across many runaways.

Must-have item(s): A calibrated jacket as seen within the Junya Watanabe/Palace collaboration, in addition to the Carhartt pieces at Sacai.

Budgets up or down: We’re feeling positive concerning the 12 months ahead, overall.

Recent talent: The Nahmias collection felt like a standout.

Franck Nauerz, director of men’s fashion, Le Bon Marché:

Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Dior Homme, Zegna x Elder Statement.

Top trends: A combination between futuristic, chic and stylish silhouettes. An outerwear and ethnic inspiration for some collections.

Must-have items: Loose and flowing pants, mohair and cashmere tops, the cardigan, oversized employee jackets and total leather looks.

Impressions of the week: This season is the continuity of the [spring 2023 season], still with a retro and bohemian touch in lots of collections. The maisons proceed to impress with their elegant and slender silhouettes. Pops of color energize this winter season and add a touch of freshness to the contemporary silhouettes. We proceed to see a fantastic evolution within the wardrobe that mixes increasingly urban street looks with tailoring.

Ahmet Ocal, buying and merchandising director, Men Merchandise Group, Beymen:  

Favorite collection(s): Casablanca, Loewe and Bode.

Best show format: Casablanca was the perfect show with an epic venue installation including a warplane dressed with flowers. The show began with a speech from the creative director Charaf Tajer stating the importance of the love, peace and cherishing life under any condition. The music selection was stunning and joyful. The show was a complete experience in all senses.

Top trends: I see minimalism was coming back, but in numerous and strange shapes and constructions. Elongated pieces were so common on the shows, like long overcoats and jackets. Relaxed tailoring was one other strong trend. We also witnessed a latest way of constructing sartorial pieces, like wide and emphasized jacket shoulders. Black was the dominant color at most shows.

Must-have item(s): A press release overcoat, black leather or vinyl jackets and trousers, long boots in any style, and any item with embellishments, embroideries or handcrafted details.

Budgets up or down: Our budgets are up for Paris, as there are such a lot of brands emerging and existing ones that are empowering their collections season after season. Paris has turn into the number-one creativity center of men’s fashion.

Recent talent: Bode, with a fresh approach to updated masculinity, and Courrèges, with a powerful and strange minimalist statement, are the brands we would really like to contemplate this season.

Impressions of the week: There may be an obvious escapism from the old status quo to a brave latest era. We face a radical change in all fields of life, like technology, lifestyles — and in addition fashion.

Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director of Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman:

Favorite collection(s): Rick Owens, Dior, Amiri.

Best show format: The Louis Vuitton show was a wonderful spectacle with expansive but minutely detailed sets by director brothers Michel and Olivier Gondry, an explosive live performance by Rosalía, and an incredible, optimistic collection from guest designer Colm Dillane who had a refreshing, personal tackle house codes established by Virgil Abloh. It was a satisfying Cinderella story come to gorgeous life. A mention is deserved of the choreography and inventive projections on the Homme Plissé runway show which were an incredible complement to the geometric collection.

Top trends: Exaggerated and oversized proportions proceed to be key this season, with wide-shouldered, elongated topcoats, especially when belted for dramatic effect, and voluminous pants were a very powerful silhouettes. Fashion tailoring continues to have prominence, worn in a really relaxed, louche way, with easy, layered underpinnings. Tonal and monochromatic dressing was also key.

Must-haves: A refined, Chelsea-style boot — Dior’s pull-on versions in each leather and rubber, and Loewe’s rough out suede and sleek leather boots were terrific. A protracted, tailored overcoat, especially if belted. Wide, fluid pants in whatever style suits you. A trim, tailored jacket to pair back to those wide pants.

Impressions of the week: The Milan and Paris menswear shows and presentations usually are not all the time in a directional lockstep with one another from season to season, but there was synchronicity throughout the autumn collections, a transparent correlation between the elegant, simplicity and purity of design that connected the 2 fashion capitals and the first messages of designers.

Ida Petersson, buying director, Browns:

Favorite collection(s): Amiri. Mike continued to raise his designs and this by far is his strongest collection to this point.

Best show format: Homme Plissé all the time delivers, and this show was beautiful. From the set design to the gathering, it was an ideal fashion moment.

Top trends: Tonal dressing, soft tailoring, long coats and oversized bags.

Must-have item(s): Bunny shoes at Nahmias, the draped coat from Dior and incredible soft tailoring from Lemaire.

Budgets up or down: Level. Although the collections are strong, the microeconomic climate must be considered.

Recent talent: Kid Cudi’s first collection, Members of the Rage, was impressive. We’re excited to see how his brand evolves from here.

Impressions of the week: A continuation of Milan, a more soft and pared-back approach with an absence of logos.

Luke Raymond, senior menswear lead, Farfetch:

Favorite collections: Rick Owens, Wales Bonner with a special citation for Max Pearmain’s styling at Givenchy. “It really took Matthew Williams’ best collection yet to a different level.”

Best show format: Amiri’s show within the round at Le Carreau du Temple, a supersized vinyl record on the ground, and soundtracked by DJ Premier and a live band was probably the standout for me — and nicely complemented a nostalgic, remixed and refined tackle Amiri’s signatures. Shoutout also to the new water bottles and blankets that saved us from -3 temperatures at Lemaire!

Top trends: Tailoring, broad, dropped shoulder and unstructured is the important thing takeaway; oversized and floor-sweeping overcoats, skirts and dresses in approachable, classic fabrics. Puffy and protective outerwear, something Prada kicked off in Milan with their pillow puffas has made its method to Paris.

Must-have item(s): The overcoat. Broad-shouldered, floor-sweeping, double-breasted in black, gray, brown or neutrals.

Recent talent: Although not latest per se, it appears like a breakthrough season for Hed Mayner whose signature oversized tailoring and utilitarian references sit perfectly at the middle of the season’s trends. Rushemy and Lisa proceed to raise Botter and this season felt like an actual step up for them — crowned with their Reebok collaboration sneaker. I also really love what Ranra [formerly Arnar Már Jónsson] are doing — conscious, considered fashion that makes on a regular basis dressing that bit higher.

Impressions of the week: The season has crystallized where menswear is heading. Bridging the divide between streetwear and classic menswear propositions in a way that feels true to how men, and a varied and various number of men want to decorate — difficult the norms with proportion and gender play for instance — but offering solutions in a way that feels approachable, attainable and relevant for now.

Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew:

Favorite collections: Amiri, Dries Van Noten, Sacai.

Best show format: Designers that proceed to leverage their platform for change and awareness to global issues at large were a standout. Charaf Tajer’s introduction to the audience, prior to the Casblanca show reinforced the peace and happiness that underlined the essence of the gathering.

Top trends: Textural layering was an enormous styling trend across the lads’s collections this season. Kenzo, Junya Watanabe, and Amiri showed this the perfect. Redefining traditional codes of tailoring prevailed across the collections with an emphasis on the jacket styled in latest and modern ways than a conventional suit. Matthew Williams’ tackle the suit at Givenchy took formal dressing to a latest level.

Must-have item(s): The oversized Loewe tote, a Sacai Carhartt jacket, Kenzo corduroy chore coat, Dior rain boots, relaxed double-pleated trousers from Amiri.

Budgets up or down: Paris offered a breadth of newness and styling codes across the collections that our budgets reflect accordingly.

Recent talent: Paris embraced Colm Dillane with open arms first with Louis Vuitton, followed by his own namesake collection that shut down the streets of Paris.

Impressions of the week: The energy in Paris was electrifying and the collections didn’t disappoint. We’re experiencing an exciting moment in menswear, where streetwear has an incredible influence on tailored clothing. Collaborations were at almost every collection and the intersection of fashion, art, music and design brought multiple creative ideas into one collection at times.

Riccardo Tortato, head of shopping for departments, Tsum Moscow & DLT St. Petersburg:

Favorite collection(s): Hermes, Amiri.

Best show format: Amiri. Really beautiful set design and the thought of the old record. I need to mention the live music at Dries Van Noten since it was really great.

Top trends: Coats in all different interpretations — it could possibly be “jumper style” as in Loewe, or more dramatic as in Saint Laurent. Almost each fashion show had loads of coats and that is the results of a more formal method to dress up. As a consequence of the coat, we noticed more “latest formal” shoes and fewer sneakers, and lot of blazer in numerous style and shapes.

Should have item(s): A protracted coat in soft fabric.

Impressions of the week: PFW was really interesting and different than MFW even when the message globally was the identical, a latest style more chic and complicated. Different than in Milan, during PFW there have been still in some shows a little bit of street style that look really old nowadays. Strange that some big names are still browsing this trend. I actually think that a protracted chapter is closed and the lads for 2023 will need to look more slick and complicated. I personally loved the Hermès collection since it is the suitable balance between modern man, chic, elegant but with a twist.

Mytheresa Buying Team

Favorite collection(s): Lemaire, Auralee, Loewe, Dries Van Noten, Bode, Amiri, Kenzo.

Top trends: As seen in Milan, modern tailoring and overcoats were the important thing highlights. Knitwear remains to be playing a central role, used either to create layered looks or showed in thicker textures with color blocks (Lemaire) or strong animations (Bode).

Recent talent: Bluemarble presented a powerful knit and outwear collection. Winnie Recent York also showed a substantial collection, developing good tailoring elements. Hed Mayner interestingly reviewed the classic codes of tailoring and outwear, twisting those facets in a contemporary proposal.

Must-have item(s): Overcoats shall be definitely championing the following season. We loved the large tote proposed by Loewe.

— With contributions from Samantha Conti, Rhonda Richford, Lily Templeton, Jennifer Weil, Alex Wynne