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31 Jan

Couture Spring 2023 Trend: Pastels

Lightness was the prevailing mood in Paris for this season’s couture, each when it comes to silhouette (a loosely structured ‘20s line proved pivotal) and color, with delectable pastels and pale hues throughout.

Shades of mint, frosted lemon, bubblegum and sherbert were on full display at Giorgio Armani’s harlequin-themed show, which “opened with neat little jackets with the lozenge shapes in relief, and cycled through quite a lot of cocktail looks,” that included “glossy black pants, black knickers or long, narrow black skirts,” reported WWD’s Miles Socha.

Punches of black, and a few gothic makeup looks and accessories, also tamed the saccharinity at Miss Sohee, Yuima Nakazato and Robert Wun, while at Viktor & Rolf, topsy-turvy silhouettes did the trick.     

At Fendi, Kim Jones installed a clinical, vivid white set contained in the Palais Brongniart to heighten appreciation for the work of the Milanese house’s atelier, which was put to the test on dresses featuring “laser-cut leather, dense micro-beading, gossamer crochet, micro pleating and complicated lace,” Socha wrote in his review. Done up in faded tones, these had an enthralling nostalgia harking back to pieces uncovered from grannies wardrobe. 

Little doubt Pierpaolo Piccoli’s electrifying pink PP ready-to-wear has taken fashion by storm, but for Valentino couture, the designer freshened things up with the addition a lighter bubblegum shade — one not too dissimilar from the one Giambatistta Valli is now dubbing “Valli Pink.” 

Meanwhile, Schiaparelli (which became known for its Shocking Pink palette within the ’30s) abandoned the colour entirely this season. Spinner of surrealist fantasies, Daniel Roseberry selected as an alternative to splash his mostly neutral lineup with hints of champagne in the shape of a silken slip and a bow accented minidress. Cheers!

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