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13 Jun

Daniel Fletcher to Exit Fiorucci

Daniel Fletcher to Exit Fiorucci

LONDON – Daniel Fletcher is leaving Fiorucci as menswear artistic director at the top of June, WWD has learned.

“I’m immensely pleased with what we have now achieved together during my time here and have had a lot fun along the best way. It has been an honor to contribute to this brand that has such a wealthy history, and I wish Fiorucci all the most effective for the longer term,” Fletcher said in an announcement sent to WWD.

He added that announcements regarding his future plans, in addition to updates from Fiorucci, will probably be made sooner or later. It is known that the split was amicable and that Fletcher is leaving to concentrate on his own brand.

Fletcher’s most up-to-date collection for Fiorucci, pre-fall 2023, was presented last month and took the brand in a latest, and more upmarket direction. Resort 2024 will probably be his last collection for the brand.

A Central Saint Martins alum, Fletcher first caught the industry’s attention in 2016 on the debut of his namesake label. He staged an anti-Brexit protest rather than a conventional runway show.

He reached a wider audience after becoming a runner-up within the Netflix reality show “Next in Fashion,” and was appointed menswear artistic director of Fiorucci a month before the show aired in January 2020.

Under Fletcher, Fiorucci expanded its categories beyond t-shirts, sweatshirts, denim, and angel-themed pieces, and moved into ready-to-wear.

Within the meantime, Fletcher continued to present collections for his namesake label Daniel W. Fletcher in London.

Last Friday, he unveiled a collaboration with Huntsman as a part of the autumn 2023 collection on the Royal Academy of Arts in London. The partnership with the 174-year-old Savile Row tailor signaled a higher-end positioning for the brand, Fletcher said.

Along with Fletcher’s own rtw designs, there have been nine collaborative pieces that Fletcher developed alongside Huntsman creative director Campbell Carey. They were made by Huntsman tailors and got here with sharper shoulders and narrow, elongated waistlines.

The styles were immediately available for fittings at Huntsman, with prices ranging from 6,300 kilos.

A more ready-to-wear-focused 12-piece capsule, inspired by the archives of each brands, will probably be available across Fletcher’s own distribution network in the autumn along with the arrival of the designer’s principal line. It features oversized shirts, wide-leg trousers, and A-line jackets.

“My brand is all about reimagining British heritage, so this partnership with Huntsman made total sense. Taking what we all know as traditional menswear and offering a recent tackle it, one which is just not sure by rules of dressing, gender or the expected,” said Fletcher in an earlier interview with WWD.

Founded by Elio Fiorucci 56 years ago, the Italian fashion label was considered the mother of all retail concepts with its first store in Milan’s central San Babila opened in 1967. It dismantled the established ideas and structure of a fashion retailer to fill it with design, art, music, books, kinky merchandise, and even food, at a time when terrorism and political tensions loomed over Italy.

After a rapid and successful global expansion in the next many years, opening doors across the U.S., Europe, and Asia, the brand went into financial trouble and saw its ownership change hands several times.

In 2015, after the brand’s founder died, Fiorucci was sold by the Japanese trading house Itochu to the veteran British clothing retailers Stephen and Janie Schaffer.

The duo relaunched Fiorucci in 2017 and now operate two stores in London.

With contributions from Hikmat Mohammed.

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