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26 May

Ed Burstell, Sandi Burrows Form Beauty Brand Advisory Firm

The sweetness distribution landscape has a latest player founded by industry veterans.

Ed Burstell, the seasoned retail executive, and Sandi Burrows have formed Burburs LLC, an advisory firm for prestige beauty brands seeking to enter the U.S. market.

Burstell, who hung out within the trenches at Henri Bendel and Bergdorf Goodman before helming Liberty of London and, most recently, working at Neiman Marcus, said he and Burrows met in the course of the early days of MAC Cosmetics. “Sandi held their first U.S. contract for MAC, and I used to be working at Henri Bendel. That’s how long we’ve known one another,” he said.

Burrows’ résumé includes the U.S. introductions of Aesop, Byredo, Serge Lutens and L’Artisan Parfumeur, along with MAC. The goal with Burburs — a riff on their last names — is to mix Burstell’s retail know-how with Burrows’ knack for constructing brands.

“We each know what has the inherent DNA to grow up in case you nurture it and guide it properly, and in case you will help the founders and the creators avoid making expensive newcomer mistakes,” Burrows said.

The U.S. market has seen seismic shifts for the reason that duo first met, given the decline of malls and the golden age of beauty specialty retail. “There was an old model before, where you could possibly be cool by association,” Burstell said. “If you happen to were in Barneys, every brand desired to be in there, every store went to see what Barneys was doing. Now, the onus is clearly on the brands to create their very own visibility and their very own buzz. And I can only consider a handful of outlets that can spend marketing dollars doing PR and social media on a small startup.”

Sandi Burrows

Added Burrows, “You have got retailers looking for discoveries, and also you, because the brand, need to have the option to seek out the trail to get yourself in front of the individuals who intend to make those discoveries and wish the things other people don’t have yet.”

Consumers have also grown much savvier and storytelling has develop into one in all smaller brands’ biggest hurdles in raising awareness. “If you’ve gotten a manufactured story, you’re going to get called out in a heartbeat,” Burstell said. “If you’ve gotten a forward-thinking retailer that appears at things through an editorial lens, you get to inform the story the way in which the brand desires to tell it. What a variety of smaller start-ups don’t understand is that you simply don’t need an enormous machine straight away.”

Though entering retail is the firm’s forte, Burrows acknowledged that it’s not a be-all, end-all. “Getting on a shelf is just not going to guide you to success,” she said. “It is advisable to have the power to speak a really engaging story, and also you tell that story in 1,000,000 ways — some with words, some with visuals, and others with the alternatives of what you do. And all of it has to hold together.”

They often advise brands to start out small on the retail front.

“People think since the U.S. is so geographically vast, they need to be in as many stores as possible,” Burstell said. “How is that helping a brand today? We are saying to place that on hold, develop the brand, have the communication directly with the consumers first, and then you definitely can at all times have a conversation with a retailer later.”

Burburs’ purview expands beyond retail to most points of constructing brands with longevity. “We take a look at the shop, we take a look at the communication and messaging, product array, pricing tiers. Then we do a 12-, 24-, 36-month calendar that hits on every little thing, like distribution,” Burstell said. “It’s quite 360. When people ask what we become involved in, we are saying we become involved in every little thing.”

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