Last month, a Consumer Reports study found cancer-causing carcinogens in ten synthetic braiding hair brands, including Sensationnel and Shake-N-Go. After testing two samples from each, lead was detected in 9 out of 10 of the brands along with other volatile organic compounds (VOCs), like acetone and benzene. Nevertheless, experts query whether the findings are cause for serious concern.

“They concluded all ten products contained levels of lead that exceeded the utmost allowable dose level as set by California, because there isn’t a national level for this,” cosmetic chemist Javon Ford said in a TikTok video. “Nevertheless the MADL (maximum allowable dosage level) they went off of is for drinking water, which is just based on oral exposure not dermal exposure.”

When you’re not eating your braids, exposure to harmful chemicals could come through the use of your mouth to separate strands, eating after touching the hair, or children putting braids of their mouth. And, although Ford claims he understands why Consumer Reports used the oral testing model, he disagrees with the validity of it. 

“I don’t agree with it because, again, you’re not intentionally ingesting braids,” he said. Referencing a 2009 SGS SA report, the limit for lead allowed in lipstick is 5 PPM (which is the present limit in 2025), while not one of the lead tested within the Consumer Reports braid samples exceeded 0.2 PPM. “You’re rather more prone to ingest lead via lipstick than you might be via hair.” 

Lead is elemental, which implies it’s difficult to avoid in most products, and in reference to the synthetic hair findings, Ford says the lead tested is in “very conservative limits” while the VOCs, like benzene, is “far below the usual set by Osha for each day exposure.” It’s value mentioning, nevertheless, the US isn’t known for having high health and safety standards in cosmetics, which has even led to a lawsuit against hair relaxer brands for causing cancer in almost 10,000 customers. The EU has stricter regulations, banning or restricting over 1,300 chemicals in cosmetics, while the US has banned fewer than 30. 

The largest concern within the study, in line with Ford, is the extent of acetone, though we are sometimes exposed to the chemical on the nail salon. Nevertheless, when synthetic braids are dipped in boiling water to seal the ends, the VOCs emitted can exacerbate respiratory issues. “Otherwise, I don’t find their findings cause for alarm because the degrees are far below other things, like bentonite clay,” he said, an ingredient often utilized in skincare. 

Nevertheless, Ciara Imani May, founding father of non-toxic plant-based braiding hair brand Rebundle tells ESSENCE she’s still concerned. “I’m concerned the chemicals are present, but I’m not surprised,” she says. In keeping with Rebundle, one in three wearers will experience scalp irritation from the toxins in plastic synthetic hair. “It’s fair to take a look at those test results and feel anger or disappointment that there’s no secure level of consumption of lead.”

Some hair stylists are even resorting to washing synthetic hair in apple cider vinegar to stop their clients from having skin reactions. “I recently braided my hair and I needed to take it out because I used to be getting an allergic response,” one TikTok hairstylist says. “My armpits, my belly, my neck, itching, itching, itching. And even my clients have been saying they need the hair pre-rinsed.” 

Having conducted an independent study years ago, Rebundle found similar toxins as Consumer Reports and have been using their platform to coach why alternatives should exist. Using regenerative materials, Rebundle braiding hair is 97 percent bio-based produced from banana fiber and designed to duplicate textured hair. “Most synthetic hair is made out of plastic,” May says. “We take a more careful approach to sourcing ingredients which can be skin secure.”

Nevertheless, secure, reusable braiding hair comes at a price. “Price has been a conversation for us because the starting,” she says. With one pack of Rebundle hair starting at 36 dollars, the worth of synthetic hair is cheaper and easier to access at a beauty supply store as an alternative of ordering online. Although Rebundle is reusable and higher for our skin, which may also help justify the worth, “we are able to’t compete with the worth point of synthetic hair and aren’t attempting to,” she says. “There’s quality and safety being sacrificed [to reach the low price] as we now know.”