“Stealth wealth” and “normcore” could have been the buzzwords surrounding the autumn runways, but all signs of timelessness or understatement stopped at the garments. 

The news for bijoux was outré flash as designers decked their collections out in hefty collar necklaces and dramatic earrings, borrowing from the history books with references as wide ranging because the stone age to the art nouveau golden age of costume jewelry.

In his first collection since Paco Rabanne’s death, creative director Julien Dossena provided one among the season’s shining examples by taking over the late designer’s love of experimental metalwork. 

“They may as well charter a plane to L.A. now because Wednesday’s Paco Rabanne collection was red carpet gold,” joked WWD West Coast executive editor Booth Moore, eyeing “a bunch of gowns made in collaboration with the Salvador Dalí Foundation, honoring the late founder’s friendship with the Surrealist artist [and] a retrospective capsule of 5 of his most iconic designs.”

The latter paired swinging ’60s chainmail minis with retro-futuristic drop earrings, while the previous included surrealist jewelry Dali would likely approve of — like a collection of barbed-wire shaped pieces, a golden heart inset oozing ruby red blood and an oversize bell pendant necklace.  

Surrealism also played a starring role in Daniel Roseberry’s first ready-to-show show for Schiaparelli where he “went back to the roots of the home and referenced how Italian aristocrat Elsa Schiaparelli dressed. Cue the turbans, and giant sets of fashion jewelry in the form of human faces, lilies and oyster shells,” observed WWD China market editor Tianwei Zhang.

Equally in-your-face accessories were spotted at Nina Ricci. “My whole design process is type of being in people’s faces,” the newly appointed Harris Reed told Paris bureau chief Joelle Diderich in a preview. His silver and gold crustacean looking pieces had a prehistoric vibe, while those on Giambattista Valli’s runway skewed more baroque.

The designer was inspired by Joséphine de Beauharnais Bonaparte whose regal style, noted Moore, translated to ”the liberty to wear whatever you wish — but make it loud.” Valli’s crystal chandelier earrings in wealthy gem tones definitely made an announcement.

Elsewhere, Andreas Kronthaler paid homage to the late Dame Vivienne Westwood’s signature hodgepodge style with punkish chokers, Etro’s Marco de Vincenzo went for a layered look with medieval talismanic jewelry and Dries Van Noten got crafty, using vintage necklaces as straps for his sinuous slipdresses.