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2 Dec

From Sudden Insight to Contemporary Design

After 20 years Marco Bicego goes back to its roots, highlighting the trademark coil technique that’s the results of sudden inspiration spun in gold.

The extremely effective 18-karat gold strand, now shaped by the generational hands of expert craftsmen, was created by accident, saved by the founding father of the namesake brand from being remelted in his father’s factory. Bicego recalls that it was a moment of sudden insight, explaining that he saw the straightforward chain for its beauty that resembled a silhouette of golden ribbons along sand dunes.

Marco Bicego’s coil continues to represent a masterpiece and the brand’s most successful collection. For the autumn/winter 2023 season, the artisanal technique will probably be treated with recent sophisticated, contemporary designs and collection extensions: Marrakech, Marrakech Onde and Masai. The collections’ recent tackle beauty, said Bicego are irregular, purposely imperfect, and unique.

Marrakech Onde Twisted Double Coil Link Bracelet, $5,320 

Here, Marco Bicego speaks to Fairchild Studio concerning the origin of his signature coil technique, the evolution of Marco Bicego and the inspiration for his latest collections.

Fairchild Studio: What’s the inspiration behind your latest collections?

Marco Bicego: In fall/winter 2023, we’re putting the highlight over again on our exclusive coil technique with recent sophisticated, contemporary designs and collection extensions: Marrakech, Marrakech Onde and Masai. These recent extensions are consistent with my credo of making beautiful jewelry pieces that complement one another and complete a glance while exuding the wearer’s personality. The outcomes seen today, in a seemingly easy coil chain, was the product of many hours of meticulous artisan research and development. For the reason that brand’s two-decade launch, the coil proves a masterpiece and artisanal strategy of its most successful collections.

Marrakech 3-Strand Coil Necklace With Diamond Bar, $9,980

Fairchild Studio: How would you describe the Marco Bicego woman?

M.B.: My muse is the form of woman you meet in on a regular basis life, who impresses with character, class and elegance. I prefer to think that those that select my creations appreciate the care with which they’re made, the indisputable fact that they express the taste of a 100% Made in Italy product, and the indisputable fact that they’re timeless pieces of jewellery that never exit of fashion. Beautiful on their very own, they might be mixed and matched in order that every woman can create her personal style and wear them at every moment of the day, from an off-the-cuff meeting to an exclusive evening.

Marrakech Twisted Irregular Medium Hoops, $1,990. 

Fairchild Studio: What’s your loved ones history with the unique coil technique and the way has it evolved?

M.B.: I made my debut as a designer in 2000 with Marrakech, which remains to be today one in every of the brand’s most distinctive and iconic collections. It was the yr 2000 when a machine designed for processing gold jammed, leading to an extended, spiraling twisted strand being released. The craftsman was about to melt it down again, but I had spotted something special in that strand, a recent way of creating and creating jewelry. I made a decision to reap the benefits of that unexpected event by attempting to develop a particular production method that may allow me to acquire that exact same spiral.

The exclusive coil technique was born from this unexpected insight, which led to the launch of the Marrakech collection. The coil is lightweight yet robust; delicate yet versatile; and reproducible yet concurrently unique.

Marrakech 3-Strand Bangle With Diamonds, $7,850. 

Fairchild Studio: How is Marco Bicego putting its distinct craftsmanship on the forefront of design?

M.B.: Artisanal mastery and technical expertise is admittedly on the core of all we do. Our rigorously manual artisanal approach requires not only time but additionally extraordinary skill. The incisions we make using a burin, the painstaking coiling process and the meticulous alternative of precious stones are all expressions of the care and mastery that go into every bit of Marco Bicego jewelry. My jewelry is a distinctly Italian tackle the goldsmith tradition, where the skill of master goldsmithing is expressed at its highest level.

Marrakech Onde Twisted Coil Link Lariat With Diamond Clasp, $10,370. 

Fairchild Studio: How does the vertical integration of your factory and house in a single place help contribute to the distinctive craftsmanship of your products?

M.B.: All my jewels are created in our atelier in Trissino, near the goldsmith hub of Vicenza, Italy. The goldsmith tradition is deeply rooted here. Our master craftsmen have a talent and a passion that no machine could ever replace. Know-how and skills are passed down from generation to generation like a precious heirloom. They painstakingly etch and craft each intricate piece by hand using traditional techniques. That is one in every of the elements I value most. The great thing about a bit of jewellery that’s entirely handmade, cared for all the way down to the smallest detail, and unique since it is irreproducible is an added value in all my creations. It will not be easy to safeguard this heritage, however it is what makes my work special. Those that select my jewelry know this and feel it.

Masai 4-Strand Coil Ring With Diamond 2 Pavé Bands, $6,550.

Fairchild Studio: How are you continuing to encourage the subsequent generation of craftsmen?

M.B.: Last yr, we launched an academy program to coach recent master goldsmiths and skilled jewelry artisans to introduce recent professionals in the corporate to extend its specialized production capability.

This training program is an element of the corporate’s mission to preserve and enhance a historical savoir-faire, supporting the link with the local district and the territory where this same goldsmith tradition has its roots. The initiative was carried out in partnership with the Vicenza Skilled School of Art and Crafts, one in every of the oldest and most respected institutions within the Italian goldsmith district. In the subsequent few months, we plan to duplicate a second edition of the academy to strengthen and grow much more the highly specialized crafts and skills of our atelier in Trissino, Vicenza.  

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