ONE FOR THE BOOKS: A definitive volume chronicles the catwalks of Givenchy, spanning from the 1952 debut of Hubert de Givenchy to the autumn 2023 collection by incumbent artistic director Matthew M. Williams.

Published by Thames & Hudson, “Givenchy Catwalk, the Complete Collections” is coauthored by fashion historian Alexandre Samson, who’s a curator at Paris’ Palais Galliera museum, and fashion critic Anders Christian Madsen.

The 632-page volume is organized chronologically, each section starting with a succinct biography of de Givenchy, John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Julien Macdonald, Riccardo Tisci, Clare Waight Keller and Williams. 1000’s of images captured throughout the couture and ready-to-wear presentations give a snapshot of every season.

Giving this in-depth and chronological read of Givenchy’s history offers “understanding of the evolution of fashion within the second half of the twentieth century,” said Samson. The progression “creates reference that is excellent for the mind. With social media, you see shortcuts and [inaccurate] storytelling being created.”

The authors also dove deeply in the home archives, “amongst essentially the most complete by way of press coverage” based on Samson, to tell their introductory comment of every season. “This doesn’t just offer a monolithic vision but [constitutes] a constellation of views from international, national and even regional press that actually enlighten the narratives.”

For Samson, taking good in addition to negative reviews led to a faithful report of the collections. “It means admitting doubt but in addition recognizing the success, which humanizes the designer, particularly de Givenchy,” said the historian.

Commentary also sheds light on other fashion history moments seen through a Givenchy lens, similar to the return of Gabrielle Chanel, the emergence of André Courrèges or Yves Saint Laurent’s influence. It also highlights key relationships between de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn but in addition with Cristóbal Balenciaga.

“They built a duo, where one wasn’t greater than the opposite,” said Samson. “It’s really interesting and refreshing. Today, you see brands collaborating but press called [their] duo ‘Givenciaga’ in 1958.”

“Givenchy Catwalk, the Complete Collections” is on the market in English from Thursday, priced at 60 kilos. It can be available from Yale University Press on Nov. 28 within the U.S., at $80. Versions in French and Italian shall be released in November by publishing houses La Martinière and L’Ippocampo, respectively. — LILY TEMPLETON

NEWTON’S PARTY: Charlotte Rampling, Karen Elson, Kristen McMenamy, Jon Kortajarena, Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Cedric Charbit and Craig McDean all turned as much as A Coruña in Galicia, Spain, last night, about 20 minutes away by automotive from the fast fashion epicenter of Arteixo, where Zara’s parent company Inditex is headquartered, to have a good time the opening of “Helmut Newton – Fact & Fiction,” an exhibition celebrating the life and work of German-Australian photographer Helmut Newton.

The exhibit is presented by Marta Ortega Pérez, the non-executive chair of Inditex, and curated by Philippe Garner, Matthias Harder and Tim Jefferies in collaboration with the Helmut Newton Foundation, which was established by the artist in 2003.

Chef Javi Olleros put together a special menu to have a good time the private viewing of the exhibition and DJ Paul Sevigny provided the entertainment for the night.

The showcase marks the third exhibit backed by Ortega Pérez, who has worked to make the town a latest cultural center, following presentations dedicated to photographers Peter Lindberg and Steven Meisel.

The exhibit will run from Nov. 18 to May 1, 2024, telling the story of the person behind the work with a series of videos showing Newton at work and in conversation; personal images providing insights into his childhood, profession and partnership together with his wife June, and further documents, posters, cameras and equipment, props, artifacts and memorabilia.

A few of his “Big Nudes” portrait series shall be on display, including Andy Warhol, David Bowie, Margaret Thatcher, Charlotte Rampling, Elsa Perretti, Daryl Hannah, Jerry Hall, Naomi Campbell, Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld. — HIKMAT MOHAMMED

AMI’S CHINA PUSH: China is on a coffee binge and fashion brands have taken note.

The most recent brand to affix China’s fashion pop-up café craze is Ami, the Parisian label known for its heart-shaped logo.

Last Friday, Ami launched its “Le Café Ami” pop-ups concurrently in Beijing, Shanghai and Chengdu.

The Beijing pop-up café, situated on the South Plaza of the Sanlitun Taikoo Li shopping complex, is realized as a duplicate of an Haussmann-style Parisian constructing, accomplished with urban French elements similar to Parisian bistro chairs, cylinder promoting columns, lampposts and decorated with a street sign that read “9, place des Victoires,” which is the address of the Ami headquarters in Paris.

“Through a singular experience, in outstanding settings, [the pop-up café is] tailor-made for Chinese friends and customers,” the brand said in an announcement.

The bottom floor café also incorporates a dedicated space for Ami’s fall 2023 collection that spans men’s and ladies’s ready-to-wear in addition to accessories.

Ami expanded the temporary café concept to Shanghai by working with Sunset +a:b, a captivating café on a leafy street in downtown Shanghai. The Shanghai pop-up incorporates a black-and-white striped sunshade, porcelain, tables and chairs. Product packaging got here with an Ami de Coeur logo. The café featured exclusive Ami stationery products, similar to Ami de Coeur keychains, magnets, paperweights and pens.

In Chengdu, Ami linked up with Invisi, situated near Taikoo Li Chengdu, with similar set design elements and likewise sold Ami souvenirs.

The three pop-up cafés will open for one month until Dec. 8. — DENNI HU

ECO MINDED: Phoebe English, the London designer who’s known for her darkly romantic creations, has teamed with the Kentucky-based bourbon maker Maker’s Mark on an upcycled capsule for the vacation party season.

The eight-piece collection features a dress, shirt, T-shirt, trousers, blazer, jacket, scarf and handbag. They’re produced on a limited made-to-order basis and are made with a mix of upcycled clothing similar to T-shirts, deadstock plaid, occasion party wear, and deadstock wools. 

The pieces are inspired by the Maker’s Mark distillery Star Hill Farm, where nature is preserved and revered via regenerative agriculture and sustainable programs similar to zero landfill waste, solar energy warehouses, and the world’s first LEED-certified whiskey cellar.

“The range is purposefully multifunctional in order that it might be styled up or all the way down to fit into existing wardrobes and across personal styles,” said English.

“I’m delighted to be working with Maker’s Mark and have enjoyed learning about their extensive and long-standing work with considered agriculture, enhancing water health and biodiversity renewal. My hope is that this project can reach people to indicate that garments can live beyond a single wear, purpose, or season,” she added.

A dedicated pop-up called the (Re)Made to Party Boutique and Bar will run from Thursday to Saturday at 149 Shoreditch High Street. Customers who wish to buy an item shall be measured in person, before having their custom-made piece delivered to them in time to wear for the vacation season.

The pop-up can even have on-site tailors offering mends and repairs totally free. Love Not Landfill, a nonprofit organization that encourages fast fashion fans to purchase second-hand, swap, recycle and provides clothes to charity, meanwhile, will arrange a clothing donation bank there to advertise conscious consumption.

Neil Skinner, marketing director of Edrington UK, the parent company of Maker’s Mark, said the brand decided to work on a fashion collaboration since it felt “a way of responsibility to the way in which we impact our shared environment.” Maker’s Mark is the largest bourbon distillery on the earth to realize B Corp certification and the primary distillery to realize Regenified certification.

“We’re thrilled to strengthen our pledge to the planet and other people beyond Star Hill Farm via our collaboration with Phoebe English, a designer equally committed to her sustainability mission,” added Skinner. — TIANWEI ZHANG

HARRIS AND HIS HAIR: Some fashion designers are synonymous with their hair — take Karl Lagerfeld and his signature white ponytail; Zandra Rhodes’ fuchsia pink bob, and Harris Reed, who together with his long, auburn mermaid locks has joined Dyson as an envoy across wearables, beauty and residential.

To have a good time the partnership, the designer has featured in a series of campaign photos wearing the Dyson Zone headphones.

“Anyone who knows me knows that I even have been an enormous advocate for the Dyson hair tools and I exploit the Dyson Airwrap to style my very own hair most days. Dyson’s commitment to innovation and developing cutting-edge hair technology has real synergy with my very own passion for pushing creative boundaries in fashion,” said Reed.

“But this collaboration shouldn’t be nearly fashion, it’s about redefining how we experience sound and magnificence. Like how my Airwrap has turn into integrated into my every day routine, the Dyson Zone headphones have turn into an extension of my creative process once I am within the studio designing a group,” he added.

The British American designer is on the helm of French fashion house Nina Ricci, in addition to designing under his own label.

For the past two seasons Reed has staged his shows for his own brand on the Tate Modern.

“It’s a little bit of a dream. It was the primary museum I went to once I moved to London eight years ago and I’ve at all times had a deep fantasy of it,” Reed told WWD in an interview earlier this 12 months. — H.M.

UNDER PLEIN SUN: Philipp Plein is adding one more brick to its lifestyle-leaning fashion business.

The corporate said Thursday it has inked a licensing agreement with Area B for the design, production and global distribution of Philipp Plein-branded beachwear for men and ladies.

Although the brand did show some beachwear designed and produced in-house previously, the deal suggests renewed impulse toward the category.

The primary collection under the agreement will bow for spring 2025.

“For me and my group it’s been a privilege to get in contact with Area B and admire the standard of their product, manufacturing prowess and pragmatic and effective entrepreneurial approach,” said designer Philipp Plein. He thanked his business adviser Carmine Rotondaro for orchestrating the deal and shared his confidence that the “strong relationship Area B has forged over time with suppliers and distributors shall be an exceptional support to the diffusion and market success of the creations we’re working on.”

Established in 1999, Area B already has licenses for brands including Iceberg, Bikkembergs and Trussardi in addition to private label clients similar to North Sails and Cavalli Class.

“We’re glad in regards to the cope with Philipp Plein and able to kick off with enthusiasm this adventure of communication, product and distribution,” said Federico Venturato, president of Area B Group. “We’re confident that our technical know-how will mix perfectly with Plein’s design innovation and cutting-edge creativity and our global distribution network is adamant to receive latest products.”

That is the newest step within the brand’s product offer extension as, after entering the fragrance arena, the corporate signed a license for its eyewear collections with Italian manufacturer De Rigo and with Timex Group Luxury Division for watches and jewellery.

In late 2020, Plein revealed a revamp and streamlining of the group’s operations, a rethinking of the wholesale and retail channels and of the Plein Sport and Billionaire labels, in addition to the reinforcement of the net strategy and the launch of recent licenses.

A 12 months later, in 2021, the brand unveiled stately headquarters in Milan and revealed plans to launch an ambitious Plein hospitality project in town; the relaunch of the Plein Sport line; latest licensing deals and global store openings; significant distribution plans in China, and an overall enhancement of the womenswear business to rebalance the label’s offering, amongst other initiatives. — MARTINO CARRERA