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20 Jan

I Discovered My Recent Favorite Protective Style, French Curl

Have you ever ever been on the hair salon only to appreciate that each other client within the room is getting the identical hairstyle… apart from you? This was me during my recent trip back home to Ghana. As I sat in my favorite salon in Accra, I noticed I used to be the one person not getting French curl braids. Also often called Nollywood braids, this regal type of box braids starts with neatly parted thin braids and cascades into voluminous curls at the top. “The appeal [of this style] is the silky, bouncy look of the braids, not to say they’re lightweight,” says Nigerian content creator, hairstylist, and owner of Chi’s Luxe Braiding hair Chinyere “Chi-Chi” Adogu. And the style’s popularity extends well beyond Accra and Lagos: The braids are dominating TikTok with tens of millions of fans (278.7 million views on the #frenchcurl braids and 4.6 million views on the #nollywoodbraids, to be exact).

I should note that the look isn’t brand recent but fairly in its comeback era after its prime within the ‘90s and early aughts. Brooklyn-based braider Helena Koudou remembers the style as “Yaki Pony Braids” back when stars like Brandy regularly wore the look within the early 2000s. Around that point, it was also a go-to style for Nigerian actresses in Nollywood movies, which is the way it got the name Nollywood braids.

That Eboigbe
Woman posing in pink French curl braids hairstyle
Chinyere “Chi-Chi” Adogu

The Nollywood style began slowly making its way back to the highlight stateside in 2022, after already resurfacing on crowns in West Africa. Adogu recalls being in Nigeria two years ago and “seeing all the ladies in silky curly braids.” Koudou noticed this too and anticipated the trend would make its way abroad. “I purchased French curl hair within the Ivory Coast in December of 2022 to bring back to Recent York and a few months later people began requesting the style,” says Koudou. The trend died down in the midst of 2023 but now that African diasporas have made their way back to the states after the vacations, French curl braids are back in demand at the highest of 2024.

Temi Otedola wearing black French curl braids
Getty Images

What form of hair is used for French Curl Braids

This style is all concerning the voluminous curly ends, so using synthetic hair ensures that the bouncy curls will hold their shape irrespective of the weather or wear time. Specialized boutiques like Chi’s Luxe Braiding Hair (which exclusively sells French curl braiding hair) have mastered an artificial mix that appears and looks like human hair. Koudou likes to make use of extensions from one other Nigerian-owned brand Darling Hair which is accessible on Amazon.

Chiamaka French curl braiding hair

Darling Loose Body Waves Braids Hair Extensions

The variety of packs needed for a mode all the time is dependent upon the scale and length of the braids and the quantity of hair that’s in a pack, Koudou explains. For those who’re getting your French curl braids in a small size (1-inch wide braids) all the way down to the center of your back, five to eight packs are enough for the entire head. Koudou suggests checking in case your salon offers French curl braiding hair (especially when you’re choosing a blended color like honey blonde). Amazon offers a wide range of options like Lmzim French Curl Braiding Hair in 27, a copper blonde and Luoyudu Curly Braiding Hair Extensions in 27/33, a warm honey blonde mix.

What to anticipate during an appointment for French curl braids

Like most protective styles, French curl braids stay in for a couple of weeks so it’s necessary that your scalp is clean and your hair is moisturized before being tucked away. Some stylists offer a pre-styling service, but when that’s not an option for you, remember to arrive at your appointment with freshly-washed, blow-dried hair.

The style can take anywhere from 4 to seven hours to finish. The session will start with the stylist parting and braiding your hair, feeding in pieces of braiding hair until you reach your required length. For those who’re attempting this style at home, It’s necessary to tie a knot where you select to stop braiding and let the curl loose to make sure the braid doesn’t unravel. Other box braid styles — like boho braids — require dipping the hair in hot water to loosen the hair or activate the curl pattern but you’ll be able to skip that step with French curl braids for the reason that hair already is available in the ultimate curl pattern. Dipping it in hot water could spoil the hair.

How long do French curl braids last?

Expect your French curl braids to last as long as six weeks with proper maintenance. The age of your braids will start to point out first within the loose curls. To avoid tangling and matting, Koudou recommends spraying the ends with water and brushing the hair out frivolously.

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