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20 Dec

Jil Sander Pre-Fall 2023

The twenty eighth look of Jil Sander’s pre-fall collection was an enthralling white dress that stood out for its easy silhouette that balanced a sporty feel within the wavy ajour junctions on the silk bustier, craftsmanship within the embroidered asymmetric skirt and its overall sense of effortless femininity — three key elements Lucie and Luke Meier poured into their latest effort.

Dangling from the neck of the model, a gold pendant in the form of a zodiac symbol teased a latest line of accessories.

“I’m a Virgo, which is why she’s wearing that necklace,” said Luke Meier during a Zoom call, addressing the astrological charm. Do the Meiers imagine in stars and seek the advice of horoscopes? “Lucie greater than I,” said the designer, while his wife next to him added she prefers “to read it afterward, actually. When it’s already past and I can interpret it and say, ‘Yeah, this happened,’ quite than having huge expectations.”

Parallels might be drawn between this approach and the designers’ in fashion: the couple follows its own creative path and instincts, without being influenced by trends or seasonal swings. When they give the impression of being back at their work, the duo often finds out that the (style) stars have aligned of their favor.

Their pre-fall collection confirmed it, adding to the momentum the Meiers have experienced this yr. The lineup was marked by a mix of activewear references and a couture attitude, in addition to energetic floral prints and vibrant colours.

Big volumes and fluid, lean silhouettes defined the principal proportions. The previous included round-shouldered shirts, capes and jackets, in addition to ample Bermuda shorts and girly print dresses with puffed pleated sleeves and balloon skirts. The latter encompassed floral jersey frocks, silk slipdresses with scalloped necklines and a white plastron shirtdress with a cultured nonchalance.

Each supple and papery leather marked sporty outerwear, starting from a sky blue down jacket to a big mustard cape, while the brand’s minimal tailoring was given a twist in a narrow plum coloured suit with exaggerated lapels and in a series of sleeveless, collarless options with a belt closure.

Knitwear also pointed to a leaner, body-con direction in long dresses and ribbed cardigans, which amplified the gathering’s tactile feel. Together with silk, cashmere, wool, recycled nylon and viscose, shearling was introduced in reversible coats and vests that were the standouts within the outerwear.

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