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4 Oct

Louise Trotter’s Carven Debut, Loewe’s Look, and The Row’s

PARIS — It was a Paris Fashion Week of emotional highs, goodbyes and decisive debuts. All of it played out against the backdrop of the still-strong trend of “quite luxury,” which was pushed ever so subtly into the background with the growing spectacle of celebrity-driven shows and front rows.

The departures of Gabriella Hearst from Chloé and Sarah Burton from Alexander McQueen were especially notable as they were two of the only a few women to move up large fashion houses. “The changing of the guard and farewells to each…were bittersweet moments throughout the week. The exiting leadership from two visionary female designers can be deeply missed,” noted Jodi Kahn, vp of luxury fashion at Neiman Marcus.

Louise Trotter’s debut collection at Carven was widely praised by buyers, earning mentions on many favorite show and best recent talent lists and with items plucked as top trends or recent buys. “Trotter guarantees a future filled with elegance and delicacy. It was a really beautiful first start for a clean and super feminine aesthetic,” said Samaritaine Paris’ merchandising director fashion and accessories Victoria Dartigues.

Peter Do’s Paris Fashion Week debut was a standout for a lot of, while Marie Adam-Leenaerdt is being picked by several stores.

Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe had one other triumphant season, together with his high-waisted pants and Squeeze bag’s return as runway standouts, while Courrèges continued elevation, particularly in accessories, also received lots of love from buyers.

Other favorites were Demna’s emotionally charged Balenciaga show, cited for bridging the gap from the runway to real people and his inclusive use of various body sizes and styles; Valentino’s performance piece featuring FKA Twigs and a set of cutouts to talk about freedom in a female body, and Stella McCartney’s morning market that demonstrated how her collection is infused together with her sustainable ethos.

Miu Miu RTW Spring 2024

Dominique Maitre/WWD

Miu Miu’s fashion week closer was praised for its refreshing energy, which Printemps’ buying director Maud Pupato called “essentially the most desirable search for next summer, the proper mix between surf and mental.”

Buyers predicted that the main focus will shift away from the trouser suit to the skirt, and the super-short-short panty trend will dominate going out and party pieces. On the opposite end, The Row’s collection — so laid back it featured slippers — was nearly universally praised by buyers. It seems nearly every retailer can be buying the brand’s jelly flats.

“I discovered that Paris Fashion Week clearly represented the dichotomy that’s ruling fashion at once. On one side the quiet luxury narration, with attention to daywear and ‘secure’ collections that may satisfy customers (and reassure shareholders). On the opposite side, the pure creatives lacked the same old spark, and lots of designers resorted to celebrities and socialites to create buzz,” said La Rinacente’s head of fashion Federica Montelli.

Other trends were safari touches, as shown at Saint Laurent but demonstrated elsewhere through the week, and the tan and khaki colours that may carry through the season, and all-white dressing with pops of red in all places.

But Nordstrom’s women’s fashion director Rickie de Sole identified perhaps the largest trend of all: “There wasn’t one overarching mood this Paris season. It is a season to search out what you want and blend it up how you would like.”

Kate Benson, buying director, Net-a-porter

Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Saint Laurent and The Row.

Top trends: “Extraordinary on a regular basis” was a key trend that emerged for us during Paris. Loewe turned the high-waisted pant and polo top right into a fashion-forward desirable piece. Saint Laurent did spring in the easiest way, showcasing a uniform of utility sets and jumpsuits. And color-wise it was all about primary colours: Red was the colour of the season for fall, and for spring, red has been built out with strong pops of cobalt blue, yellow and green.

Investment pieces: Who would have thought we’d list jelly sandals as a key investment piece, but we loved The Row’s jelly sandal. Loewe’s Squeeze bag, as seen on the runway again, will proceed to be a powerful style.

RELATED: Loewe RTW Spring 2024

Latest talent: We’re very excited to be launching Marie Adam-Leenaerdt for spring and are most drawn to her tackle tailoring, playing on volumes and silhouettes. We were also so thrilled for Christopher Esber’s debut at Paris Fashion Week — so well deserved.

Impressions of the week: There was an actual beauty and elegance to the collections in Paris, each physically and emotionally. Sarah Burton’s last collection for McQueen was a very emotional moment.

Beth Buccini, owner and founding father of Kirna Zabete

Favorite collections: Valentino, Loewe, The Row, Saint Laurent, Dries Van Noten and Miu Miu.

Valentino RTW Spring 2024

Valentino RTW Spring 2024

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Best show formats: At Valentino’s beautiful show on the Ecole des Beaux-Arts, Pierpaolo Piccioli had a strong feminist manifesto paired with equally powerful and delightful couture-like clothes with exceptional craftsmanship. Also, Paris marked the tip of an era for several designers, and I loved seeing Gabriela Hearst dance out of Chloé in style.

Top trends: The trends we first began to see in Latest York were also completely prevalent in Paris. I’ve never seen a lot sheer. Red remains to be powerful and the important thing color of the season. Suiting remains to be essential. And at last — finally! — day clothes are really a thing.

Investment piece: Loewe high-waisted pants, Valentino Birkenstock-style sandals, Loewe Squeeze bag, cargo jackets from Saint Laurent, red jellies at The Row, Sacai flared tuxedo trousers and Miu Miu climbing rope sandals.

Budgets up or down: Budgets are up, as we’re opening more doors. We’ve already accomplished 65 percent of our buy for the season.

Latest talent: We’ve seen less recent talent than usual, unfortunately. We at all times find something fun, but I believe this can be a difficult time for brand new designers.

Impressions of the week: It was just thrilling to see desirable day clothes from so many designers. I really like this mood of effortlessness and ease without being boring. We’re seeing a freshness and lightness that also feels interesting. The looks we saw this week will certainly resonate with our clients. A lot of the collections were easy yet still compelling, made with beautiful craftsmanship and fabrications.

Seville Chow, senior vp of fashion, Lane Crawford

Favorite collection: The Row

RELATED: The Row RTW Spring 2024

Best show format: Rick Owens — expected the unexpected. The pink and yellow smoke with Diana Ross’ “I Still Consider” remix and rose petals scattered through the sky, as we sat on the Palais de Tokyo facing the Eiffel Tower. Column silhouettes, focused on the waist and highlighted with elevated shoulder pads, and parachute overcoats created a dramatic and overpowering entry.

Rick Owens RTW Spring 2024

Rick Owens RTW Spring 2024

Dominique Maitre/WWD

Top trends: Denim and workwear/cargo-inspired details applied to modern tailoring from trenchcoats, jackets and skirts as seen at Dries Van Noten and Saint Laurent. Waistline focus as seen at Rick Owens, Loewe and Saint Laurent. Silk gazar applied on tailoring and parka styles to create a parachute volume effect as seen at Sacai.

Investment piece: Dries Van Noten‘s look 4, shrunken cotton drill jacket and shirt paired with long cargo pocket skirt; Loewe super high-waisted denim trouser with needle.

Budgets up or down: Overall we’re pleased with what we now have seen up to now weekend and we’re investing.

Latest talent: Quira

Impressions of the week: It’s been a buzzy week of strong collections, great show venue decisions and show sets, and seeing most international buyers again. We definitely felt an awesome sense of positive energy and good vibes.

Jessica Crawley, head of shopping for at Ounass (Al Tayer Group)

Favorite collections: Valentino, Chloé, Victoria Beckham, Zimmermann, Saint Laurent and Schiaparelli.

Best show format: Saint Laurent and Stella McCartney

Top trends: Spring ’24 builds upon a number of the key trends we saw for fall ’23, akin to cutouts, sheer fabrics, low-waisted trousers, denim, earthy tones and tailoring. Nonetheless, there was loads of newness on the runways as well. Tailoring, certainly one of the largest trends, had a fresh take with loads of crisp white blazers, which we saw each on the runways and within the showrooms from brands like Valentino, Magda Butrym, Coperni and Alessandra Wealthy.

On the earth of prints, polka-dots were prominently featured in collections from Stella McCartney, Alessandra Wealthy and Balmain. However it was the oversize roses that actually stood out this season with our favorites being from Balmain and Alexander McQueen. Roses took a 3D effect as well, with rose appliqués featured across collections from Balmain, Chloé, Coperni, Zimmermann and Loewe.

For colours, red was a transparent favorite for designers, distinguished in collections from Zimmermann, Pimples, Valentino, Christopher Esber, Balmain, Schiaparelli and Alexander McQueen. There have been also touches of brown, yellow and plenty and numerous black.

Investment piece: A white blazer from Valentino or Magda Butrym, I can’t determine.

Budgets up or down: Up

Impressions of the week: PFW encapsulated the concept of “quiet luxury,” a term that has been gaining momentum up to now few months. The collections we saw this week epitomized this notion of understated opulence with the wonder being in the main points and the craftmanship. This was exemplified in collections from Chloé, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Alexander McQueen and Saint Laurent. Overall designers embraced simplicity, but collections were nothing in need of impactful and complex.

Brigitte Chartrand, vp of womenswear buying at Ssense

Favorite collection: The Row and Miu Miu

Best show format: The vibe at Maison Margiela was positively electrifying. From the energy of the models to the colourful music, you’d have been hard-pressed to search out anyone who didn’t leave with a sense of absolute excitement after the show. Meanwhile, Balenciaga was pure storytelling and intensity. Set against an orchestral soundtrack with a voice over by Isabelle Huppert reciting the book “La Veste Tailleur,” Demna invited his friends, family and colleagues onto the runway as a part of the show. It felt intimate and private. And in fact, who can forget Rick Owens enveloping his audience in rose petals and tinted fog on the Palais de Tokyo. I used to be very taken away by the “I Still Consider” soundtrack. It was an incredible, immersive Rick experience.

Balenciaga RTW Spring 2024

Balenciaga RTW Spring 2024

Courtesy of Balenciaga

Top trends: In the identical way that red was the colour of fall 2023, we’re seeing the spring 2024 color palette evolve into sunset hues with designers leaning heavily into reds, oranges and yellows at The Row, Miu Miu and Rick Owens.

Investment pieces: I’m at all times on the seek for the proper white T-shirt. I absolutely loved the oversized cashmere T-shirt at The Row, and I may have to stop myself from buying each color of their runway jelly flats.

Latest talent: We welcomed the primary on-schedule collection from Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, which can be launching on Ssense in the subsequent six months.

Impressions of the week: The summer weather in Paris so late within the yr was a welcomed surprise this season. It felt like we were living in spring 2024.

Jennifer Cuvillier, fashion director at Le Bon Marché

Favorite collections: Zimmermann, Stella McCartney, Rabanne, Courrèges, Dries Van Noten and Loewe.

Best show format: We had amazing weather, which allowed outside locations. Stella McCartney did her Parisian morning open-air market show with a highlight of representatives from firms pioneering recent fabric technologies, in addition to vintage Stella McCartney clothes and a booth of old records — an awesome concentrate on her sustainable brand’s DNA.

Stella McCartney RTW Spring 2024

Stella McCartney RTW Spring 2024

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Top trends: Quiet luxury with summer tailoring, twisted shirting, balloon volumes and elevated utilitarian [looks]. Colours akin to all-black silhouettes, black and white, soft colours with a sorbet palette and metallics. Prints and embellishment with strass ending and flower prints. Accessories with a concentrate on flats, mules and raffia.

Investment piece: A Bermuda suit, elevated denim, a twisted polo shirt, summer knitwear and summer leather pieces.

Latest talent: We are only launching Guest in Residence, the gorgeous cashmere brand designed by Gigi Hadid.

Impressions of the week: It’s a really exciting moment with lots of creativity from every category — from catwalk to showroom, rtw, accessories, shoes and jewellery, Paris fashion week is definitively a high creative moment.

Laura Darmon, director of shopping for and business development, ENG

Favorite collection: Rick Owens, Didu, Ann Demeulemeester, Courrèges and Mugler.

Best show format: Mugler, Mugler and Mugler! Once more, Casey’s exceptional creative prowess shines through within the seamless orchestration of this show, from the designs to the fascinating stage setup and the impeccable casting decisions. Casey’s remarkable talent continues to dazzle and amaze in every facet. 

Mugler RTW Spring 2024

Mugler RTW Spring 2024

Dominique Maitre/WWD

Top trends: Sheer fabric, beige and sand tones, mid-length skirt, elegant silhouettes skillfully fiddling with proportions.

Investment piece: Exclusive colorway or items in an almost oversaturated market. 

Budgets up or down: Stable

Latest talent: Alainpaul, who unveiled his debut collection, left us utterly spellbound. His inaugural showcase was nothing in need of a panoramic masterpiece, seamlessly mixing timeless elegance with a definite and signature style.

RELATED: Alainpaul RTW Spring 2024

Impressions of the week: Elegance is making a triumphant return, signaling the tip of the brand frenzy era. It’s truly refreshing to shift our attention exclusively to the artistry of form, the richness of materials, and the harmony of proportions. Such a pleasant departure from the cluttered aesthetics of the past.

Victoria Dartigues, merchandising director fashion and accessories, Samaritaine Paris

Favorite collections: Saint Laurent and Peter Do

Best show format: This season shows were far more focused on minimalistic and easy sets relatively than big productions. The set designs were a transparent link to the present trends and helped put the collections in forefront.

Top trends: Power dressing stays a really strong constant redline this season, however the strong woman has a much softer look. It’s all about empowerment, but with fluidity, transparency and elegance. The common theme for just about all the shows is the ultra-portability and commerciality of the collections. Quiet luxury remains to be very present, far more feminine with an attractive twist through leather and open back designs. Today’s dressing plays with transparence in the total wardrobe: skirt, top, trousers. When it comes to colours, white and a neutral palette dominate, but we see also many pastel shades that are delicately infused into slipdresses. Red remains to be an “It” color for a powerful statement piece.

Investment piece: A slit pencil skirt, Bermuda short, denim blazer, something in polka dots, a pastel slipdress, a sparkling and sheer top, ballerina and flat mules, leather details.

Budgets up or down: We spend money on our brands, but we will’t escape the uncertainty of the present context. Subsequently, all budgets are measured.

Latest talent: The primary show of Louise Trotter for Carven guarantees a future filled with elegance and delicacy. It was a really beautiful first start for a clean and super feminine aesthetic. Sheer skirt and voluminous top or jacket illustrate this recent silhouette that we imagine easily within the streets in next six months. Litkovska has once more demonstrated her talent in classic tailoring through strong silhouettes, charged with references of the difficult situation experienced in Ukraine.

Impression of the week: Overall it’s a really wearable season with creativity and industrial collections. Paris was hitting a powerful pool emerging talents amongst the massive houses.

Rickie de Sole, women’s fashion director, Nordstrom

Favorite collections: Valentino, Alexander McQueen, Dries Van Noten, Courrèges and Miu Miu.

Best show format: It was value arriving early at Stella McCartney’s open-air market on the Marché Saxe-Breteuil. The various stalls showcased innovation in recent sustainable fabric technologies together with records and vintage fashion wares. It was a captivating, vigorous and deeply personal show and setting.

Comme des Garcons RTW Spring 2024

Comme des Garcons RTW Spring 2024

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Top trends: There wasn’t one overarching mood this Paris season. It is a season to search out what you want and blend it up how you would like. There was, nevertheless, a color story seen repeatedly: black and white, pops of red and khaki. In fact, there have been a number of defectors like Rei Kawakubo’s electrifying color at Comme des Garcons and Matthew Williams’ dreamy pastels at Givenchy, but the previous colorway of black, white, red, khaki was the predominant selection.

Fashion flats in all places. Looks were always being grounded quite literally with low kitten heels, or pragmatic but elegant flat sandals and slip-ons that allow for freedom of movement. Dior, Valentino, The Row, Loewe and more make a powerful case for pausing sky-high heels for a moment.

Investment piece: A bit from Sarah Burton’s last Alexander McQueen collection, Chanel crystal ballet flats, Miu Miu thong sandals and The Row jelly sandals.

Latest talent: We were comfortable to see South Korean-based Eenk’s Paris runway debut. The gathering by Hyemee Lee was a sensible mixture of texture and casual layering pieces for ladies on the move. Gia Studios is a incredible talent from Vietnam.

Impressions of the week: If Milan was about debuts, Paris gave us emotional finales. The highlight of the week was definitely Sarah Burton’s final show at Alexander McQueen. The emotion within the room was palpable and the gathering a memorable tour de force of sharp tailoring and modern eveningwear. Closing the chapter for Gabriela Hearst at Chloé also resonated with its celebratory tone. This season was all about balancing spectacle with substance. When there was great showmanship, clothes were the middle of the drama.

Elizabeth and Dominick Lepore, owners, Jimmy’s Latest York and The Hamptons

Favorite collections: Alexander McQueen, Coperni, Saint Laurent and Valentino.

Top trends: White shirts, short anything — the abandonment of pants. Juxtaposition of designer and simpler dressing. The importance of what’s behind you — the back detail of blouses, blazers and the likes of the person’s redingote coat.

Investment piece: Oversize bags

The Row RTW Spring 2024

Latest talent: Going to Paris allows us to search out recent talent from around the globe: Amsterdam, Antwerp, Istanbul, etc.

Impressions of the week: Designers’ feeling of material and the connection to the body.

Linda Fargo, senior vp of the style office and the director of ladies’s fashion and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman

Favorite collections: Schiaparelli, Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton, Givenchy, Loewe, Peter Do, Miu Miu, with other standouts Rick Owens, Junya Watanabe, Comme des Garçons, Marni, Noir, Martin Margiela and Sacai.

Best show format: Stella McCartney treated us to top-of-the-line venues of the week — an open-air morning marketplace offering incredible sustainable, playful, educational and edible ideas. The Paris sunshine helped. The theatrical and plush red velvet draped space at Balenciaga combined with the highly personal casting of friends, mentors and models made for one more memorable Balenciaga experience and marked a vital brand turning point.

Top trends: Tailoring continues to be a vital place to begin, whether in welcome iterations in black, barely exaggerated and worn over the favored barely there “undie-pant,” cutaway and deconstructed, or worn as shorts suits. Tailoring also supported gender fusion and inter-play, which were in full exploration this week. All-white dressing felt essential and a fresh reason to purchase. The gorgeous pale colours trend continued here. Khaki and tan supported more utilitarian ideas. Black and white grounded many collections. Very short lengths ruled. The white shirt interpreted can be a will need to have. Heartbeat red punctuated shows because it should our wardrobes. The symbol of affection — the rose — was the flower of the season.

Isa Boulder RTW Spring 2024

Isa Boulder RTW Spring 2024

Courtesy of Isa Boulder

Investment piece: Recommending anything Schiaparelli, since it’s collectible, rare, beautifully made and conceived, and lives beyond trend.

Impressions of the week: Once more, Paris crystallizes the season and wraps the 4 city and almost four-week fashion calendar with the originality and innovation we will hope for here. After so many collections anchored in understatement, it was abundantly apparent that the iconoclasts on the Paris show schedule are continuing to push boundaries and prioritize creativity and experimentation. We appreciated the balance it gave to an otherwise safer season.

April Hennig, chief merchandising officer, Moda Operandi

Favorite collections: Valentino, The Row, Givenchy, Saint Laurent, Dries Van Noten, Courrèges and Miu Miu.

Best show format: Stella McCartney’s sustainable market was charming and thought frightening, reminding us all clothing doesn’t start with the runway: we want to take into consideration the whole production cycle. Balenciaga’s dramatic curtain set was an emblem of true showmanship. Chloé’s runway-turned-dance party on the Seine commemorated Gabriela Hearst’s tenure on the brand with a celebratory notion.

Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2024

Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2024

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Top trends: Saint Laurent’s safari theme also registered at Isabel Marant, Christopher Esber and Peter Do, featuring palettes including olive green, khaki and sand beige. Soft layers of sheer fabrications were seen across collections like The Row, Victoria Beckham, and Givenchy. A color trend we’re coining as “à la Ladurée” within the Moda office as a result of its resemblance to pastel macarons was seen at Stella McCartney, Zimmermann and Valentino. Crisp whites were seen at Giambattista Valli and Chloé, starting from on a regular basis chic to bridal. Leather continued as a transitional fabrication at Courrèges, Miu Miu and Coperni in key items like jackets, dresses and trousers. Shorts continued from previous cities as a key piece, starting from longer tailored versions to micro mini shorts at Isabel Marant, Chloé and Rabanne. Comfort stays key with flats and kitten mules, as seen at Valentino and Loewe.

Investment piece: Ready-to-wear investment pieces include cutout embroidery dresses from Valentino, Stella McCartney’s fringe crystal jeans, cotton poplin column dresses from Giambattista Valli, Johanna Ortiz’s black-and-white raffia dresses and Gigi Hadid’s brown embroidery take a look at Miu Miu. On the accessories side, key pieces include the caged jelly flats at The Row, oversized Balenciaga charm bags, and Christopher Esber’s recent rock clutch.

Budgets up or down: There may be so much to like from the Paris collections. We’re taking a considered approach to the season.

Impressions of the week: Paris showed a powerful and galvanizing range of collections that were solidly attuned to what women need to wear at once, with a transparent concentrate on luxury. There have been confident finale collections from Sarah Burton at McQueen and Gabriella Hearst at Chloé, while younger designers from Sébastien and Arnaud at Coperni to Nicolas de Felice at Courrèges are continuing to hone their vision. Quiet luxury still played its part but the general mood was balanced with novelty and unexpected touches across daywear. Collections were more balanced between sharp construction and a dreamy softness. The proper weather and impressive street style only added to the enjoyment outside the shows.

Tiffany Hsu, chief buying officer, Mytheresa

Favorite collections: Rick Owens, Miu Miu, Loewe, Y/Project and Undercover.

Best show format: Rick Owens had a incredible venue and the set and the garments were incredibly cinematic. The Valentino show had FKA Twigs performing which was absolutely mesmerizing.

Top trends: The largest trends in Paris were transparency, floaty volumes and all white all the pieces. We also saw lots of jumpsuits and flat shoes.

Latest talent: Latest names to observe are Duran Lantink and Rui.

Impressions of the week: Paris was possibly missing a bit of little bit of drama with a number of exceptions akin to Rick Owens and Undercover.

Jodi Kahn, vp of luxury fashion, Neiman Marcus

Favorite collections: Saint Laurent, Schiaparelli, Dries Van Noten and the farewell to the inimitable Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen.

Best show format: The sustainable market at Stella McCartney was charming. It was a thoughtful approach to empower artists who’re committed to leaving this planet in a greater state than how we found it.

Top trends: The sense of lightness was solidified as certainly one of the largest themes of the season with sheer layers, specifically organza, popping up at Akris, Victoria Beckham, Givenchy and Peter Do. The looks were very leggy with mini and micro shorts at almost every show. In a season that has been primarily neutral, we loved the burst of red, which was particularly striking at Balmain, Schiaparelli and The Row. The expected spring florals got the couture treatment with incredible 3D and appliqué versions at Marni, Valentino, Loewe and Alexander McQueen.

Schiaparelli RTW Spring 2024

Investment piece: The Schiaparelli gold trompe l’oeil sneakers or tape measure-adorned pinstripe vest are artworks with a humorousness that should be treasured. 

Latest talent: We now have noted that while the ability of Paris Fashion Week comes from the massive brands and heritage houses, it is good to see a number of the independent and emerging voices kick off the week, like Vaquera and Zomer. 

Impressions of the week: Emotions ran high this season. The changing of the guard and farewells to each creative directors at Chloé and Alexander McQueen were bittersweet moments throughout the week. The exiting leadership from two visionary female designers can be deeply missed. The road between fashion and entertainment continues to blur as high wattage celebrities became each models and our seatmates, and dynamic musical performances replace extraordinary soundtracks. 

Simon Longland, director of shopping for, fashion, Harrods

Favorite Collections: Valentino, Saint Laurent and Schiaparelli.

Best show format: In a tale of two contrasts, the most effective shows for me this season were Daniel Roseberry’s super intimate salon show, which felt entirely special and allowed the audience to see the gorgeous detailing and expert craftsmanship and, in fact, Rick Owens, who season after season puts on a show that sits other than other designers, and from start to complete is crammed with completely memorable theatrics.

Top trends: We saw an actual continuation of the trends we now have seen from the opposite cities this week, which ensures a transparent message for our customers next season. Red of course is “the” color of the season and we saw pops of this in myriad collections, from Valentino to Schiaparelli’s showstopping final look. Designers are tailoring to the season, offering many more layering and coat options than ever before, bringing a more wintry vibe to the runway. Black, sheer fabrications, sharp tailoring and exposed shoulders were seen from start to complete with Mugler, Saint Laurent and The Row being star players in all these trends.

Investment piece: Saint Laurent’s ultra-chic safari all-in-one will already be on many wish lists. Trenchcoats, statement white shirts and sleeveless tailored jackets were top of the agenda and a staple for next season.

Impression of the week: Paris really was every week of opposing views, shows either dominated by black and garments that felt more suited to winter or light, shiny, and filled with the optimism on the arrival of spring. Overall, a more cautious and conservative week than Paris normally delivers.

Bosse Myhr, director of womenswear and menswear, Selfridges

Favorite collections: Undercover and Rick Owens

RELATED: Undercover RTW Spring 2024

Best show format: The Mugler show was incredibly staged — wind machines and making a defect on the dressers that were worn by models that were incredible and highly visual. Stella McCartney’s show was staged outside in a typical Parisian market setting. Except that each one the market stalls were replaced with artists, friends, in addition to sustainable is sourced, food and fashion.

Top trends:The colour red was definitely a presence. It might sound obvious, but lightness was an enormous trend as well. Whether that was with fabrics or colours, the collections are prepared for a warm spring and summer silky shirts and shorts which might be good for the beach and the evening. The Alexander McQueen show with Sarah Burton leaving the brand after this season marked a really emotional show that was wealthy in pieces which might be synonymous with the brand.

Model on the runway at Alexander McQueen Ready To Wear Spring 2024 held at Careau du Temple on September 30, 2023 in Paris, France.

Alexander McQueen RTW Spring 2024

Giovanni Giannoni for WWD

Impressions of the week: It was an unusually hot week in Paris, the collections are delivering across the board and making Paris the capital of fashion over again. Big brands, independent brands from further afield like Japan, we’re present in force in making the creativity stand out in Paris. Getting around was never easy in town. We found ourselves on the Metro, and on bicycles more often than ever before. Paris delivered as expected.

Federica Montelli, head of fashion, La Rinascente

Favorite collections: Loewe, Dries Van Noten, Saint Laurent, Miu Miu, Pimples Studios and Courrèges, special mention for Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen.

Best show formats: Stella McCartney’s sustainable market kicked off the Monday of shows in a fun and instructive way. I also loved Marni’s “love letter to Paris” set at Karl Lagerfeld’s home on Rue de l’Université, where we could benefit from the multidimensional and colourful approach of Francesco Risso’s trip to Paris.

Top trends: Sheer and transparency for each ready-to-wear and accessories, one-shoulder necklines and deep backs. Extra-short skirts in addition to minidresses. The timeless white shirt has been reinterpreted here and there by designers. (I loved the one-shoulder one at Dior.) When it comes to tailoring, there have been many Bermuda [versions], my most loved one was Dries’ in denim. You can find trenchcoats on almost every runway, as an affidavit of how essential it’s to supply a transitional collection in these times of crazy weather forecasts. There was an enormous statement on black vs. white and soft pastels, while red stays the strongest pop color. While everybody is doing low-waist pants, I appreciated Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe going for a super-high waist.

Investment pieces: Clear answers got here from the shoe-business, where ballet shoes and fisherman sandals will undoubtedly be a powerful investment. Jewels also showed a powerful character, as they stood out on jersey body-con dresses that were clearly more “quiet.”

Carven RTW Spring 2024

Carven RTW Spring 2024

Dominique Maitre/WWD

Latest talent: Louise Trotter’s debut show for Carven pleasantly surprised me, and it’s a brand to observe in its future developments.

Impressions of the week: I discovered that Paris Fashion Week clearly represented the dichotomy that’s ruling fashion at once. On one side the quiet luxury narration, with attention to daywear and “secure” collections that may satisfy customers (and reassure shareholders). On the opposite side, the pure creatives lacked the same old spark, and lots of designers resorted to celebrities and socialites to create buzz. The 2 essential goodbyes announced for this week — namely McQueen and Chloé — left that very same “waiting” feeling that pervaded all fashion month.

Alix Morabito, general buying and merchandising director for womenswear, Galeries Lafayette

Favorite collectionsSaint Laurent, Loewe, Dries Van Noten, Carven and Miu Miu. 

Best show formatsStella McCartney for her wealthy and generous circular market, embracing in essentially the most sincere way the roots of her brand. Balenciaga’s approach to his casting, creatives and folks from the industry who’ve a relationship with him and the home, brought a way of reality to his clothes and to fashion. The voice-over of Isabelle Huppert reading the manual of “making a jacket” was the proper crowning glory. 

Duran Lantink RTW Spring 2024

Duran Lantink RTW Spring 2024

Courtesy of Duran Lantink

Top trends: We see a continuity after the Milan shows in the concept of exploration, travel and adventure expressed through technicality, utility and craftsmanship. There may be also a continuity of the previous season with a light-weight and delicate approach of femininity expressed through lingerie and transparent garments. Unexpected athleisure twists to elevated looks in shows like Dries and Miu Miu were refreshing. This ties in well with the preppy schoolgirl approach we’re seeing increasingly of this season. The ’70s and a hippie vibe were hinted here and there in shows, whether it’s in the colours, the high- or low-rise pants, the flare trousers and the general attitude. Within the meantime, and on a bigger scale, we feel like quiet luxury is giving more room to other brands to explore creativity, which we deeply appreciated because it brings energy and directional standpoint to the style month.

Latest talents: We were glad to see the event of Marie Adam Lenart’s collections, fun, colourful and diverted propositions. Duran Lantink can be an awesome recent talent that pushes creativity further together with his daring and conceptual shows. 

Impressions of the week: It was a really, very busy and dense Paris Fashion Week. It’s definitely the place to be. 

Roopal Patel, SVP, fashion director, Saks 

Favorite collection: Saint Laurent, Dries Van Noten, Loewe, The Row, Rick Owens, Givenchy and Sarah Burton’s final collection for Alexander McQueen.

Best show format: Stella McCartney’s outdoor sustainable market with 22 stalls that greeted us because the backdrop for her spring ’24 show was informative and academic on conscious alternatives. Leather constituted of apple waste, grape based vegan leather alternatives and carbon negative mushroom packaging. The chances are countless. Rick Owens was one other standout.

Top trends: There was a twist to on a regular basis reimagined essentials from blazers, shirting, trousers and denim at Loewe and The Row. Head-to-toe khaki as the bottom for foundation dressing at Dries Van Noten and Saint Laurent. Cargo- and utility-inspired flight suits, cargo skirts and pants. The classic trench because the topper for spring. Light, and airy organza slipdresses and separates in soft pastels. Transparency and sheer proceed. Rose motifs and prints brought romance to the collections at McQueen and Balmain. Red was in all places in Paris, from long sweeping dresses at Valentino, to sculpted confections at Rick Owens. Fringe continues in high def silver metallics and goddess gold.

Investment piece: A Saint Laurent safari jacket inspired piece — from the flight suit, a thin pencil skirt or a cargo pant. The Row’s red anorak, mesh jelly flat and shopper bag. Loewe’s blazer, pintuck tuxedo shirt and high-waisted jeans. Dries Van Noten’s Military jacket, striped shirt and beaded skirt. Any of the masterpiece looks of Sarah Burton’s final collection for Alexander McQueen. The Chanel flip-flop.

Impressions of the week: The last eight days in Paris have been full on with a jam-packed schedule. Designers all stayed true to the codes and foundations of their houses while tapping into what the shopper is on the lookout for now in these changing times. The extent of showmanship and massive production shows brought the fanfare and grandeur that you simply only find here in Paris.

Ida Petersson, buying director, Browns

Favorite collection: Dries Van Noten

Best show format: Mugler. Casey delivered on the drama and the casting was a highlight of the month.

Top trends: A continuation of what we saw in the opposite cities — chic tailored wardrobing, black essentials and white with highlights of red and blue. Sheer fabrications, leather for summer and fringing can be key trends for the season.

Investment piece: Those rhinestone ballerina pumps from Loewe. 

Loewe RTW Spring 2024

Loewe RTW Spring 2024

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Budgets up or down: We’re keeping things level to make sure we will consider our existing partners.

Latest talent: Louise Trotter’s debut at Carven was a fresh and exciting tackle the brand’s heritage. 

Impressions of the week: It was a fun, fast paced week that after again didn’t disappoint. Most brands stuck with their signature aesthetics and overall it was a powerful visual showing, punctuated by some key brand moments including Sarah Burton’s last show for McQueen.

Maud Pupato, buying director, luxury womenswear, accessories and footwear, Printemps

Favorite collections: Carven, Loewe, Courregès and Miu Miu.

Best show format: Coperni’s beathing and beating partitions in a small room was emotionally strong — and so is the gathering. Pimples offered a stupendous artistic set. Balenciaga’s theater with Isabelle Huppert’s voice was very intense. Courrèges cracking floor was the primary to set the tone to raw and organic runways.

Top trends: Transparency is present in every show, mixed with tailoring, in full look, as daywear, and sexy. Tailoring is unquestionably back with a special mention for Bermudas, high-waisted pants and a really empowered version at Schiaparelli. Micro shorts and panties are replacing any bottoms to exit: sparkling at Vaillant, in leather at Gauchere, and double layered at Victoria Beckham. Butter yellow is a color increasingly seen, paired with light blue.

Victoria Beckham RTW Spring 2024

Victoria Beckham RTW Spring 2024

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Investment piece: A shirt is essential this season: striped, check print, with exaggerated sleeves or as an asymmetric dress. Shoes are the accessory to speculate, my three favorites being Courrèges mules, Loewe loafers and Cecilie B. x Asics. Needless to say a Loewe bag and possibly the matching coat. A Bermuda suit. A transparent skirt from Carven. A polo and surf shorts from Miu Miu.

Budgets up or down: Budgets are growing.

Latest talent: The very talented Alice Vaillant, even when not recent, presented a really directional show. Hodakova presented her first show, all the pieces is upcycled and bags are really interesting.

Impressions of the week: Paris Fashion Week was each fluid and grounded, as were the collections and the vibe. Sets are very raw and organic this season, offering a greater attention to the garments. There was a real redefinition of looks and aesthetic to recent approaches of brands and codes.

Arielle Siboni, fashion director, women’s, Bloomingdale’s

Favorite collections: Valentino, Dries van Noten, Gabriela Hearst’s final collection for Chloé. Also loved Awake Mode, Saint Laurent, The Row, Schiaparelli and Rokh. 

Best show format: Stella McCartney’s sustainable open-air market and Valentino’s riveting performance by FKA Twigs. 

Top trends: Menswear-inspired poplin, exposed shoulder silhouettes, oversized crochet carryalls, 3D florals, utility inspired bodies, sheer organza and delightful lace. We continued to see lots of denim dressing and shorts — all the pieces from micros to longline Bermudas.

Investment piece: Pierpaolo Piccioli’s intricate and artful embroidery, Anthony Vaccarello’s sheer tops paired back to cargo pants, Jonathan Anderson’s high-waisted pants. 

Impressions of the week: The strongest collections were rooted within the reinvention of on a regular basis clothing, classic staples infused with a way of femininity. This season fashion says goodbye to 2 strong female designers, Sarah Burton and Gabriela Hearst, who inherently understand how women want to decorate in a way that makes them feel each confident and female. Pierpaolo Piccioli’s collection celebrated a lady’s freedom to precise herself through clothing or lack thereof. The gathering captured the sentiment “that feminism is the liberty of ladies to be who they’re.”

Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew

Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, The Row, Alexander McQueen and Miu Miu.

Best show format: We’re energized and inspired by designers who leverage their runway shows as a for platform social impact, and alter. The punchy, digital screens at Dior and FKA Twig’s performance at Valentino was a strong display of female empowerment. The sustainable market that served because the backdrop for the Stella McCartney show was an progressive platform for showcasing their progressive fabric and product innovations. As a retailer, with sustainability on the core of our strategic values, we hope to see more designers highlighting material transparency of their collections.

Zimmermann RTW Spring 2024

Zimmermann RTW Spring 2024

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Top trends: The soft feminine trend inclusive of pastels, airy and sheer fabrications and a carefree attitude were prevalent from designers like Zimmermann, Dries Van Noten and Roger Vivier. This season, the main focus is firmly on skirts. In Paris, we’ve witnessed an array of options, including sheer styles, sleek pencil and straight silhouettes, impeccably tailored pieces, and skirts that elegantly range from midi to maxi lengths. Reinterpretations of men’s inspired tailoring are dominant, with Givenchy showcasing progressive jacket designs, Courrèges reimagining shirting and Loewe, experimenting with unique silhouettes. Here we also note the utilitarian influence which ultimately create the season’s recent uniform. This was best seen with a touch of red seen all around the collections.

Investment pieces: Givenchy pencil skirt, Dries Van Noten printed set, The Row jelly flats, vest from Sacai, Valentino denim Bermuda shorts, Miu Miu boat shoes.

Impressions of the week: After a month of fashion shows, we end the tour in Paris and hope to be inspired and enchanted by the collections. With recent names on the Paris calendar and recent designers which might be to be announced, there was an excitement around Paris that we saw reflected within the collections. There can be no shortage of garments and accessories to purchase next spring and we’re energized by the colour and print we’ve seen throughout the collections.

Liane Wiggins, head of womenswear, Matches

Favorite collection: Loewe

Best show format: The Valentino show on the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris with the FKA Twigs dance performance was beautiful and there was a powerful sentiment around empowering women to decorate for themselves.

Top trends: Safari chic — from the incredible looks at Saint Laurent to the more industrial offerings at Fortela. The continuation of strong bag development from Loewe to Valentino and Victoria Beckham. Great transitional trenches in all places, highlights at The Row. Sheer layers are here to remain, and we saw great ways to style them.

Investment pieces: A trenchcoat from The Row and Dries Van Noten; shirtdresses in shorter lengths from Courrèges; the brand new Squeeze bag from Loewe and a safari jumpsuit from Saint Laurent, ideally in linen.

Latest talent: We saw strong development from Marie Adam-Leeneardt, who we’re launching at Matches this season. Her strong design aesthetic is reflected through her wearable but highly interesting pieces.

Marie Adam Leenaerdt RTW Spring 2024

Marie Adam Leenaerdt RTW Spring 2024

Courtesy of Marie Adam Leenaerdt

Impressions of the week: The shows were meaningful, filled with emotive music and drama — a response to the moment we’re all living in.

Eric Young, founder and buying director, Le Monde de SHC

Favorite collections: Balenciaga, Mame Kurogouchi, Peter Do, Dries Van Note and All In.

Best show format: Mame Kurogouchi. The show was held on the famous restaurant Ogata within the third arrondissement, which is a novel space in itself. The designers presented the important thing designs of the season in an exhibition format, and the combination of Japanese craftsmanship and contemporary fashion was impressive. For Balenciaga, Demna finally reverted to the grand narrative fashion show format. Moms, friends and lovers took to the stage to make this season’s emotional level high. However it’s also a bit of sad, in any case, with such an emotionally charged show, it might not be surprising if he left Balenciaga.

Top trends: Stripes; especially the clear ones. It’s a reasonably obvious trend point this season. But I can’t say how the Asian market will react to it, we’ll must see. Men’s shirts which might be made with high thread count effective cotton or wool. Whether it’s an extra-long style that will be worn alone or with a wide range of pants, it’s the selection. Oversize silhouettes that aren’t too tough; the presence of a really large piece that will be designed to be laid out whether it’s a top or a skirt or a pantsuit. The brand new point isn’t to create a picture of a powerful woman, but as an alternative to convey some sensitivity and complexity through layers of materials.

Investment pieces: Very high-quality on a regular basis casual wear.

Budgets up or down: Given the present economic climate in China, budgets is not going to be increased but we are going to adjust the brand mix to surprise our customers.

Latest talent: All In, the item I would like to own immediately is their Ts — super cool and cute. Zomer, a mixture of designs that made a difference in the primary season, it comes with the mixture of great tailoring skills and the precise price point.

Impressions of the week: The massive query is methods to present different designs in the present economic climate, LMDS has a high-quality fashion clientele, and it’s more essential than ever to search out essentially the most exclusive collections with the most effective craftsmanship.

Will Zhang, founder and buying director, SND

Favorite collection: Pimples Studio

RELATED: Pimples Studios RTW Spring 2024

Best show format: Mugler, the blowers on the show space blew the models’ dresses as much as Casey Cadwallader blew our minds. With Fan Bingbing walking within the show, I won’t be surprised to see a quick rise in popularity in China.

Top trends: Minimalistic way of dressing, quiet luxury appears to be having endurance, intricate washed denim pieces.

Investment Piece: Easy, wearable pieces.

Budgets up or down: Budgets down

Latest talent: Alainpaul

Impressions of the week: Quite a bit more Chinese buyers and Chinese brands are here at Paris Fashion Week.

— With contributions from Samantha Conti, Lily Templeton, Jennifer Weil, Alex Wynne and Tianwei Zhang.

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