LONDON — The autumn 2023 Browns trend results are in.
Ida Petersson, buying director, and Heather Gramston, head of men’s and womenswear, on the British fashion retailer presented the picks for the season that Browns can be buying into at a presentation held Tuesday at Claridge’s Hotel.
In January, it was revealed that Elizabeth von der Goltz would join the manager team at Browns’ parent Farfetch, where she is going to grow to be chief fashion and merchandising officer at Farfetch and chief executive officer of Browns.
“We endeavor to be considered directional and curious in our decisions from our buyers to our collaborations, and the way in which we approach each our in-store and online experiences,” said von der Goltz in an announcement regarding the autumn season.
Before the showcase began, Petersson acknowledged the present economic climate and the actions that Browns has taken in its buying strategy, which is to guard younger and existing brands, specializing in sustainability in addition to continuing to expand its luxury buying, which proved successful from the retailer’s fourth-quarter results last 12 months.
“We proceed to essentially ensure that that we construct on our people of color talent and I feel it’s something that the industry has been a bit quiet on,” said Petersson, who has returned to the African, South American and Asian markets after the pandemic.
Prada’s men’s and ladies’s show was the standout show for Browns. “It’s the season where they fully got here along,” said Petersson, praising the outerwear, shoes and minimal design for each gender categories.
Daniel Lee’s debut at Burberry was compiled next to Bottega Veneta, Ferragamo, Khaite, Miu Miu, Loewe, JW Anderson, Sinead O’Dwyer, Mowalola, Labrum, Gucci, Feben, Rick Owens, Alaïa and Versace because the moments that the Browns team loved.
Lee’s men’s designs were admired for his or her unexpected “rave feeling” factor.
“Matthieu Blazy continues to redefine craft as the head of luxury. We particularly enjoy his unexpected use of leather,” said Gramston of the designer’s work at Bottega Veneta.
The large three trends at Browns that dominated buying decisions were “Luxurious Minimalism,” “To Extremes,” and “Soft to Touch.”
The primary touched upon sleek luxurious basics that included 16Arlington, Fendi, Dries Van Noten, Nensi Dojaka, Trove, Jil Sander, Lanvin, Brioni and Bianca Saunders.
The opposite two homed in on the quantity of huge shapes seen on the runways, from Gucci’s oversized coats to the pointed shirt collars from Prada. Meanwhile, shearling textures at Chloé, Nahmias, Dion Lee, Celine and Andreadamo proved to be popular.
“There’s definitely a marked shift away from the platforms of the past couple of seasons and it’s far more about minimal pumps, single soles and ballerinas just like the Alaïa ones, which have been the sellout of the 12 months up to now,” said Gramston in regards to the footwear shift at Browns.
One other big move in customer behavior has been the response to men’s nice jewelry, which said the clientele was more adventurous than the ladies’s. The highlight brands within the category have been Spinelli x Hoorsenbuhs, La Californienne, Statement Paris, Tabayer, Marie Lichtenberg and Kamushki.
For fall 2023, Browns is adding latest brands to its portfolio, including The Row; Harris Reed’s Nina Ricci; the primary dedicated women’s collection from Bode; Maccapani; HRH; Patou; Noah; Auralee; Roa, and Advisory Board Crystals.
Crenshaw Skate Club can be exclusive to the retailer and elsewhere it’s going to be buying into collaborations between Nahmias x Kodak Black and Zegna x The Elder Statesman.
At the top of the presentation, Petersson lauded the design talent coming out of Shanghai and Seoul.
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