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18 Apr

Mytheresa Spotlights Chinese Talent Via Exclusive Collections

Mytheresa Spotlights Chinese Talent Via Exclusive Collections

LONDON — Mytheresa is prepared for an enormous reveal this week, unveiling 4 exclusive capsule collections from its debut China Designer Program.

This system, which was announced last fall, is supposed to spotlight a recent generation of talent, and reflect Mytheresa’s ambitions in China and the Asia Pacific region.

Designers Susan Fang, Di Du, Jaques Wei and Xuzhi Chen were chosen by a jury that included Tiffany Hsu, Mytheresa’s vp of fashion buying, and Chuxuan Feng, founding father of Huasheng Media and editor in chief of T Magazine China.

Mytheresa will host a dinner in Shanghai on Tuesday with the 4 designers in attendance, and the collections will launch globally on Mytheresa the next day.

The editorial and video were produced by a Chinese team and forged in collaboration with Mytheresa’s media partner on the project, T Magazine China. Photographer Lian Zi photographed the collections on models Ci Ci Xiang and Emma Bei Pei.

Mytheresa plans to advertise the collections internationally via its 2 million followers on Chinese and international social media, and activations involving key opinion leaders.

Hsu said she worked closely with the designers on every step, “from initial ideas and sketches to actual finished products. We’re delighted to present them and their vision to our global Mytheresa customer base.”

In an interview, Mytheresa chief executive officer Michael Kliger said this system goals to make clear the creativity of Chinese luxury designers and to show the “modernity and innovation” in Chinese fashion.

He said the collections reflect “Chinese designers as they’re today. There’s real talent on this market, and we’re very thankful to the 4 designers. They really put their hearts into these collections, and creating stories for Mytheresa to inform. We’ve made this journey together,” he said.

Fang’s collection is heavily inspired by the designer’s heritage. She is thought for her use of gauze. She prints and dyes the fabric, cuts it into pieces of various widths, after which folds it by hand into multilayered, three-dimensional designs.

Du’s collection draws inspiration from Georgia O’Keeffe’s flower paintings, and her silhouettes are designed to suit quite a lot of body shapes.

Wei has worked butterfly and floral motifs into his collection, which features minimal dresses, structured corsetry and oversize suits.

Mytheresa described Chen’s collection as “an ode to the hippy culture of the Nineteen Sixties and Nineteen Seventies.” It features rough edges, flying feathers and hand-woven embroidery.

A glance from Di Du’s capsule collection for Mytheresa, a part of the China Designer Program.

Courtesy

Although Mytheresa will promote these collections internationally, the retailer can also be seeking to cultivate its growing customer base in China and the Asia Pacific region.

“The Chinese customer goes beyond China, and it’s a vital audience. They’re buying at home, and abroad — they usually’re traveling once more,” Kliger said.

Mytheresa doesn’t break out sales figures for the Chinese market, but Asia Pacific, which incorporates China, South Korea and Australia, represents 25 percent of the business.

Within the second quarter of fiscal 2023, the web retailer posted a 7.8 percent uptick in gross merchandise value, GMV, to 215.9 million euros.

Over the past 18 months, the corporate has been ramping up its presence in China, cultivating local talent and consumers.

In fiscal 2022, the corporate named Steven Xu as president, China and APAC, and opened recent offices in Shanghai. That yr, mainland China GMV growth rose by 22.5 percent despite regional COVID-19 lockdowns.

In the primary quarter of fiscal 2023, which led to September, Mytheresa shifted its Chinese personal shopping and marketing teams into high gear. Those moves resulted in mainland China GMV growing by an extra 22.5 percent.

Within the second quarter of fiscal 2023, which led to December, China showed slight negative growth because the country reopened, following the lifting of COVID-19 restrictions.

In February, that negative trend began to shift. Mytheresa said it saw “promising customer development” in February in all regions including the EU and China.

Asked whether Mytheresa is planning a second edition of this system, Kliger said no decision has been made. “But I’d like to. In fact we wish to see how the response is, and the way people like what we’re doing,” he said.

The jury members for the debut edition of the China Designer Program were Ye Mingzi, CEO of Guoye Culture and a Mytheresa brand ambassador; Feng of T Magazine China; Fil Xiao Bai, a stylist and influencer, and Mytheresa’s Hsu.

Mytheresa isn’t the primary retailer to thrust recent Chinese talent into the highlight. International players equivalent to Net-a-porter, Browns and Selfridges have all promoted Chinese talent as they seek to expand their international footprint, and appeal to a broader audience.

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