FORBIDDEN FRUIT: American actress Kiernan Shipka is the face of the brand new Nina Le Parfum scent, from Nina Ricci, which is due out in France on Monday.

“I actually have a really personal history with Nina, the fragrance,” said Nina Ricci designer Harris Reed. “It was the one perfume I’d all the time play with from my mom’s collection. It had such an enchanting shape, and I actually have these beautiful memories of cherishing it as a keepsake. So after I began at the home, perfume was something I desired to get my hands on quite quickly.”

Nina by Nina Ricci, the unique scent within the fragrance franchise filled with apple-shaped flacons, was launched in 2006. Puig is Nina Ricci’s owner.

“Finding a muse for this campaign was huge, since it is the primary time that the home has a face of one in all the fragrances,” Reed continued. “I immediately knew it needed to be Kiernan Shipka. Nobody can seduce you the best way an actor can — with an expression, the best way of being and with an attitude.”

Shipka is a component of Reed’s entourage.

“I desired to go very daring, so we shot in an enormous French castle,” they explained. “The choreography was done by the incredible Yoann Bourgeois. It was just really about creating some poetry. I need to bring back some romanticism, [bringing] the Twenty first-century edge to that. Kiernan brings that, a youthful optimism and claiming her naivety at the identical time, so it really played into the script we were working on. She is an icon.”

Shipka first got here to fame when she appeared in “Mad Men” as a baby actress. She went on to star in Netflix’s “Chilling Adventures of Sabrina” for 4 seasons, amongst other projects. Most recently, Shipka stars in “White House Plumbers,” a miniseries drama in regards to the Watergate scandal.

The campaign for Nina Le Parfum is about within the chateau of the Vaux-le-Vicomte in France and maintains a forbidden-fruit theme.

“With beauty, I take the style approach, coming with a narrative and really pushing the visuals super strong,” Reed said. “I also desired to bring back the romanticism aspect to the bottle. I wanted it to feel like a jewel, prefer it’s a fantasy and never only a product sitting on a shelf.”

Nina Le Parfum was created by master perfume Olivier Cresp and perfumer Ilias Ermenidis, each of Firmenich. The juice includes notes of three apples, orange blossom, gardenia, tuberose, amber wood and vanilla.

The fruity, woody floral eau de parfum can be rolled out worldwide after France.

Nina Le Parfum joins the portfolio of fresh, vegan Nina scents, which also includes Nina Rouge, Nina Extra Rouge and Nina Nature. At the very least 90 percent of their formula ingredients stem from nature, with some upcycled. Nina Le Parfum’s bottle is of 20 percent recycled glass. — JENNIFER WEIL

JOINING THE CLUB: Dr. Bea Bakshi, founding father of U.K.-based cancer prevention group C the Signs, won the Young Leader Award Tuesday night at a ceremony in Recent York City.

Led by the North America chapter of Red Club x Cartier, the 2023 Young Leader Award Ceremony is an annual event which goals to supply young entrepreneurial leaders with support to grow their businesses and amplify their voices. The award goes to young entrepreneurs, between 20 and 40 years old, running impact-driven businesses or nonprofit organizations as founder or owner, and by which they hold an executive position.

“I’m thrilled to welcome the second edition of the Young Leader Award in Recent York and have fun these young and passionate entrepreneurial leaders. They’re a continuing source of awe and inspiration,” said Cartier North America chief executive officer and president Walter Bolognino, via a press release.

Themed “Bettering Lives,” the 2023 edition sheds a light-weight on young entrepreneurial endeavors that support and empower under-represented communities by providing them more accessible, inclusive and effective health care solutions, paving the best way for a greater world for future generations.

4 finalists were chosen in April, amongst 280 registrations hailing from 33 countries. Together with Bakshi, the opposite finalists were Dr. Tatiana Fofanova, cofounder and chief executive officer Koda Health; Neha Verma, CEO, Intelehealth, and Prabhdeep Singh, founder and CEO, Red Health.

Bakshi will take home 50,000 euros in grant money and will even profit from international exposure, media visibility and a tailor-made mentorship program provided by the Young Leader Award academic partners, Georgetown University and Howard University, and ad-hoc coaching and mentoring sessions by Red Club x Cartier networks. The three runners-up will take home 10,000 euros in grant money and can proceed their journey along the Red Club Community, joining its prolonged “Friends and Family” circle.

Red Club x Cartier is a worldwide membership community of successful young multicultural entrepreneurs. — THOMAS WALLER

IDOL’S PAY: John Idol, chairman and chief executive officer of Capri Holding, saw his compensation fall 2.8 percent to $14.3 million for the fiscal 12 months ended April 1, in response to the corporate’s proxy statement filed with the Securities and Exchange Commission on Thursday.

The CEO’s take included a salary of $1.35 million and incentive pay of $4.3 million. 

That incentive pay equaled 320 percent of Idol’s base salary and was determined by a formula that takes under consideration the corporate’s financial performance — seen in adjusted free, adjusted gross margins and adjusted selling, general and administrative expenses — in addition to environmental, social and governance targets. 

But, as is typical across the C-suites of major fashion players, most of Idol’s compensation got here from stock awards, which were valued at $8.5 million — although the true value of the awards will rely upon the corporate’s stock price. The thought is to link CEO pay to the portfolios of shareholders. 

In a letter to shareholders that was included with the filing, Idol said that while financial results for the 12 months didn’t meet the corporate’s original expectations “many features of our business performed well.”

“We achieved record revenue of $1.11 billion at Versace, increasing 14 percent in comparison with last 12 months, demonstrating the momentum of the brand and the success of our strategic growth initiatives,” Idol said, referring to the constant currency growth rate on a 52-week basis. “Jimmy Choo also achieved record revenue of $633 million, increasing 13 percent.…At Michael Kors, revenue of roughly $3.9 billion increased 4 percent, driven by growth in our own retail channel.”

Capri has been focused on growing its accessories business across all of its brands while also pushing footwear and racing out to recent customers, including the 12.6 million names added to its database through the 12 months.

“We consider that with Versace, Jimmy Choo and Michael Kors we’ve three incredibly powerful brands to drive our future growth, and we remain confident in our ability to realize our long-term goals over time on account of the resilience of the luxurious industry, the strength of our three powerful iconic brands and the talented group of employees executing our strategic initiatives,” Idol said. — EVAN CLARK

DREAM TEAM: Are you dreaming about Paris Fashion Week — and what Jonathan Anderson’s next menswear collection for Loewe might seem like?

Anderson and film director Luca Guadagnino have beat you to the punch, making a short film titled “I Dreamt of Loewe” that offers a glimpse of what the designer can be showing on June 24, when Loewe’s spring 2024 show is scheduled.

Guadagnino brought his cameras to David Zwirner’s art gallery in Recent York to capture the two-minute film, which encompasses a naked man sleeping on a settee and dreaming about models in sparkly eyewear, high-waisted pants and geometric sweaters interacting with papier-mâché sculptures that look vaguely like icebergs or giant ice-cream cones splashed with paint.

Models Andrea Isidori, Elliott McDean, Malick Anderson, Bruno Krahl and Adrians Smats are shown gazing on the works by Austrian artist Franz West, often inches from their noses.

“Their uncanny poses highlight the season’s elongated silhouettes, tactile fabrications and crystal-embellished sunglasses,” Loewe said in a temporary statement.

Anderson and Guadagnino are also collaborating on the latter’s next film: The William S. Burroughs adaptation “Queer” starring Daniel Craig and Drew Starkey.

Guadagnino is best known for his 2017 feature “Call Me by Your Name” starring Timothée Chalamet and Armie Hammer as young American lovers in Italy.

Anderson often showcases artworks at his fashion shows for Loewe, which have turn out to be highlights of Paris Fashion Week. — MILES SOCHA

THE OUTSIDE VIEW: Frank Horvat’s dream was to affix the distinguished Magnum photo agency and travel the world as a photojournalist. As an alternative, he ended up within the glossy pages of fashion magazines, bringing a naturalistic approach to his shoots for publications starting from Vogue to Harper’s Bazaar.

That journey is documented in “Frank Horvat: Paris, the World, Fashion” on the Jeu de Paume museum in Paris, the primary major exhibition dedicated to the Italian-born photographer since his death in 2020 on the age of 92.

The show, which opens Friday, features iconic images alongside lesser-known and previously unseen photographs from the archives kept in his studio-home in Boulogne-Billancourt near Paris, now managed by his daughter Fiammetta Horvat.

Frank Horvat settled in France in 1955 after spending his teenage years in Switzerland, having fled Italian dictator Benito Mussolini’s racial laws targeting Jews, amongst others. He began his profession working for news magazines like Epoca in Italy and Réalités in France.

Curator Virginie Chardin noted he was faithful to certain signatures, whether he was covering a marriage in Pakistan or spotlighting the most recent styles from Givenchy. The human gaze anchors a lot of his shots, with subjects looking directly on the photographer, or reflected in a mirror.

“He was very introspective. His mother was a psychoanalyst, so he was someone who all the time questioned the meaning of what he was doing,” she said. “He often worked with out a flash, without artificial light. That’s why the pictures are very grainy. That’s really his style: he loved moody atmospheres.”

A consummate outsider, Horvat might have been one in all the world’s most reluctant fashion photographers.

Spotted by William Klein, who was intrigued by his cityscapes shot with a telephoto lens, he began to work for Jardin des Modes and quickly wowed the industry with images like his 1957 shot of model Tan Arnold standing on the counter of a bustling Paris restaurant in a cocktail dress and a protracted string of pearls.

“Within the space of just a number of years, between 1957 and 1960, he became a star photographer,” Chardin said.

Horvat heralded a full of life, humorous reportage style that broke with the formal elegance of the period’s fashion photography. “It was very recent on the time. Two or three years later, everyone was doing it,” the curator noted. “It coincides with the appearance of ready-to-wear and the evolution of the status of ladies. It was talking to women who work, who’re lively.”

Indeed, a lot of Horvat’s models had a wealthy life story. He cultivated relationships with the likes of Simone d’Aillencourt, Deborah Dixon and Benedetta Barzini, whom he liked to photograph with the artists and intellectuals of their time.

One particularly striking series for Harper’s Bazaar features Dixon alongside filmmaker Federico Fellini and actor Marcello Mastroianni, while Iris Bianchi is pictured with director Agnès Varda and sweetness mogul Helena Rubinstein, amongst others.  

“He hated doll-like models. That they had to be real women,” Chardin said. “He would all the time fight with fashion editors to forestall the models from striking ridiculous poses.”

Unlike David Bailey or Richard Avedon, Horvat didn’t cultivate fame and quickly became disillusioned with fashion photography. “I believe he will need to have felt a little bit isolated in fashion,” said his daughter. “At the moment, everyone was putting on music and it was very ‘swinging’ fashion. He wasn’t like that in any respect. He comes across as very serious.”

Though his try to return to photojournalism within the early ‘60s was unsuccessful, it yielded among the show’s most intriguing images: melancholic and surreal shots taken during an eight-month trip to locations including Rio de Janeiro, Tokyo, Los Angeles, Tel Aviv and Hong Kong.

After that, Horvat devoted more time to private projects, including experiments with digital imagery on the crossroads between photography and painting. “He drew incredibly well, he wrote incredibly well. He spoke six languages, so he was all the time restless because he was impatient,” Fiammetta Horvat recalled.

“While you read his diaries, you realize he was in a type of everlasting identity crisis, but not in a negative way,” she added. “He all the time needed to challenge every part, so he turned the page in a short time, each personally and professionally.” — JOELLE DIDERICH

NEW AGENCY: Christiana Tien Tran, the previous co-owner of The Lions Talent Management, has launched her own agency, Lumien Creative.

“I’m thrilled to introduce to the style industry, where I’ve sowed my seeds for the last three a long time, an expansive kaleidoscope of beauty that’s intentional, co-creative, purposeful and representative of the infinite possibilities that might be created on this recent chapter of talent management,” Tran said in a press release to WWD.

Lumien Creative offers talent management and artistic services globally. It’s “created from an inner and outer call to redefine and evolve talent management contained in the fashion industry,” notes the agency.

Current clients include models, activists, artists, singers, songwriters, environmentalists, authors and influencers. Cameron Russell, Ebonee Davis, Lulu Tenney, Sang Woo Kim, Raph, Aya Jones, Jonas Glöer, Nina Gualinga, and Lisa de Narvaez are amongst those signed to Lumien Creative.

Tran was at The Lions Talent Management for nearly 10 years, working as director and managing partner, then solely as managing partner for eight years, before becoming co-owner in 2021. She began her profession at public relations and communications firm KCD and has also had roles at DNA Model Management, Women Model Management and Elite Model Management. Through the years, she has worked with talents reminiscent of Valentina Sampaio, Toni Garrn, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Adwoa Aboah, Shalom Harlow, Jamie Bochert, Karen Elson, Natasha Poly, Carmen Kass and Doutzen Kroes.

A primary-generation Vietnamese-American, Tran currently resides in Weston, Connecticut, along with her wife and their three children. — RYMA CHIKHOUNE