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14 Sep

NYFW Recap: The Contemporary Market

12 months after 12 months, Recent York Fashion Week showcases the breadth of American fashion. One category that continues to expand: the contemporary market. Here, WWD rounds up a mixture of brands with serious businesses and their proposals for spring 2023.

Vince RTW Spring 2023

Courtesy of Vince


“We were contemplating those moments in summer of deep reflection and quiet pleasure so beautifully captured by cinematographer Néstor Almendros, and inspired by the soothing yet vivid colours present in the paintings of Danielle McKinney,” said Vince creative director Caroline Belhumeur. Color, the truth is, has change into somewhat of a staple of the brand over the past few seasons, but color the Vince way, grounded in its staple offering of neutrals.

Voluminous pants, very much a trend this season, got here lower-waisted, paired with slimmer shirts and jackets. Tailoring was over all looser and had a way of ease. Staples of the brand — leather separates, washed silks and lightweight cotton — were all here, too, making a group of pieces that felt seasonless and will be go-to pieces beyond just spring.

A glance from Cinq á Sept spring 2023.

Cinq á Sept

“Whatever else clothes could also be about, I feel they have to add to the enjoyment of life. A dress is a failure unless it gives a girl added confidence. She must put it on, feel great after which forget that she is wearing it and get on along with her life,” read a quote from artist, designer and muse Thea Porter on Jane Siskin’s spring 2023 Cinq á Sept collection notes.

“The entire idea is a contemporary tackle its bohemian style due to the relaxed attitude but not bohemian in a conventional way. It’s luxe, beautiful and to make a girl feel sexy,” the designer added of the lineup.

Siskin continued to expand resort’s modern bohemia and influence à la Porter with a mixture of cocktail dresses and separates (from little black dresses to swishy frocks in a handkerchief-inspired diamond-and-paisley patchwork print), dressed-up denim, crinkled satin suiting and embellished separates.


A glance from AG’s spring collection.

AG took a road trip to the American Southwest for its spring collection. The California-based brand served up its tackle the suitable wardrobe for an escape from the town within the wake of the pandemic as people yearn for a better life. That translated into a group rooted in desert-inspired neutrals that showed up in every part from vegan leather shorts with an identical jacket in a soft ivory to a dressier tackle French terry that elevated slouchy sweats for lounging at home right into a more sophisticated cardigan and shorts ensemble suitable for going out. For men, the brand offered up sweatshirts and joggers together with an ikat printed anorak in a painted desert palette.

Although the gathering offered a number of denim alternatives, AG didn’t forego its roots in jeanswear — but this season, many pieces were embellished with hand-loomed panels of Southwestern graphics that the brand commissioned Recent Mexico artisans to create and added to the backs of denim jackets for men and girls. Similar graphics were used as subtle accents on several kinds of jeans. All told, the spring offering, overseen by Sandy Oh, head of design, proved the brand is constant to evolve into a life-style sportswear collection.

Tanya Taylor RTW Spring 2023

Courtesy of Tanya Taylor/WWD

Tanya Taylor

Tanya Taylor used the angles and features of the ’70s artists’ residency space Westbeth as her jumping-off point for spring. It gave pieces like a bustier a more rounded shape and likewise was present in her embroideries. She called her prints a “beautiful mess,” pointing to her magpie like color mixing that she has come to be known for, along along with her fabric development. That spotlight to detail gives her clothes a movement and flow.

It’s her 10-year anniversary, and her knits and tailoring proceed to resonate, becoming staples for her customer. Taylor prefers to style her collection in-house, crafting looks that feel unexpected but give her customer several ways to interpret her work. A decade in, it’s a formula that works.

Kate Spade Recent York Spring 2023

Kate Spade

Kate Spade Recent York appointed Tom Mora and Jennifer Lyu because the principal designers for all product categories and the duo developed a spring collection that leaned into the home code — girlie, prints, color, novelty accessories and bag upon bag. The ready-to-wear got here in a mixture of saturated colours, stripes on A-line dresses, vibrant florals in dresses on wide-legged pants and monochromatic looks that had a retro ladylike appeal. However the bread and butter of the brand is its accessories, and spring sees a bunch of latest bags and reworked classics take shape.

Hervé Léger RTW Spring 2023

Courtesy of Hervé Léger

Hervé Léger

“This season, almost as a theme I sort of selected ourselves as a story,” creative director Christian Juul Nielsen said of the Hervé Léger spring collection. “It’s very bandage-y and architectural.”

The designer was also inspired by the views from his Recent York City windows — specifically the architecture of Hudson Yards — in addition to the architectural photographs of Hungarian photographer Lucien Hervé, which Juul Nielsen played off of to disclose and conceal the body in recent ways. The thought worked especially well on a light-weight brown, body-hugging number with sharp abdomen-revealing straps across the bodice alongside “full looks” of progressive, almost futuristic bra and cropped tops, fringed pants, and many sexy little dresses with strategic cutouts.

Simon Miller RTW Spring 2023

Courtesy of Simon Miller

Simon Miller

Candy, more specifically its texture and shape, were on the mood board for Simon Miller’s Chelsea Hansford. Broken up into sections, one inspired by silver wrappers with lamé pants in vegan leather and sequined dresses gave a vacation party vibe. Taffy was up next, with wavy lurex pieces, cover-ups and a few swimwear. One other section played with coconut with a bunch of textured separates with a seasonal logo, and a novelty varsity jacket. Hansford paired all of them with supersized bubble wedges, an update on a brand staple. Acrylic hardware was found on a mixture of dresses, an abstract tackle the theme.

Overall it made for a really tactile collection, imbued with Hansford’s trademark whimsy. Rtw is growing; for instance, her printed sets and knits offering, particularly a set of saturated knit high-waisted pants, paired with matching knit tops. That they had a retro, lounge-y but modern vibe.

There have been even a couple of takes on bridal with a vermicelli noodle dress in white or lurex crochet dresses.

Accessories will likely be bestsellers — wrapped candy heels, clogs on clogs and cute structured bags that match all of the fun prints and textures.

L’Agence Spring 2023


“It’s about boldness, romance, drama, about her living and feeling beautiful, that’s what it’s all about — and it’s everyone,” L’Agence’s fashion director Tara Rudes Dan said amid the brand’s party-style presentation on the Boom Boom Room. “Walking out of that house feeling that ‘a-ha’ moment: confidence, sexy, feminine. It takes her from day to nighttime — that’s what’s so great about L’Agence, it’s so versatile.”

The brand’s 24-look spring collection offered recent takes on signature silhouettes — blouses, dresses, suiting, with the common denominator being the brand’s ongoing denim program — all amplified in vibrant saturated shades, like a sparkling sequined purple slip or acid green suit.

“An important thing about what we do is taking our classics — our easy, effortless pieces — and it’s all concerning the fabric. Taking things which are wearable and putting them in exciting recent fabrics,” chief executive officer and artistic director Jeff Rudes said. “She will trust it, it’s easy.”

Autumn Adeigbo RTW Spring 2023

Courtesy of Autumn Adeigbo

Autumn Adeigbo

Autumn Adeigbo’s spring collection went vibrant with a fresh tackle vintage silhouettes and a touch of Y2K flair. Inspired by the actual world, the designs incorporated femme daisy prints, large-scale florals and ombré sunset elements.

“It’s very vintage, vibrant and mood elevating ” Adeigbo, who has grown her staff to seven, including one other designer, said. Clearly the second round of funding from celebrity investors Cameron Diaz, Gabrielle Union and Mila Kunis helps her scale the brand. “We actually used the initial colours of those fabrics from Spain to set the tone for the remainder of the gathering.”

Accessories were strong, with an assortment of hats, scrunchies and headbands that accomplished the looks. Sequins and beading details added one other level of shine to the gathering, injecting a little bit of whimsy.

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