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19 Dec

Our Legacy’s Collection for Matchesfashion, Tremaine Emory’s Latest Collaboration

Polished, Punk, Posh: From Sweden to London.

The cult Swedish brand Our Legacy has collaborated with luxury retailer Matchesfashion on a 12-piece capsule collection titled “Work Shop,” produced from deadstock fabrics and highlighting British craftsmanship.

The brand has installed a workshop pop-up inside Matchesfashion’s London town house 5 Carlos Place until Sunday, where customers can get complimentary customization added to their Our Legacy pieces, old and recent, by British-Indian designer Namita Khade and multidisciplinary artist Hank Grüner.

Our Legacy Work Shop for Matchesfashion.

Courtesy of Matchesfashion

“We’ve at all times had an admiration for the British Isles, especially coming from Sweden and Scandinavia, where we romanticize it a little bit bit and so many pop cultural things got here from here after we were young,” Jockum Hallin, certainly one of the three founders of Our Legacy, told WWD on Wednesday afternoon on the town house.

The connection, nevertheless, is deeper than that: it’s certainly one of appreciation, especially as a fashion label that features craftsmanship techniques akin to weaving, knitting and shoemaking.

Hallin desired to emulate British style in the gathering with the Harrington jacket; raincoat and the double-breasted suit — which he calls “classic diehards that may live eternally.”

The brand found British fabrics of their warehouse by accident that it used on the pieces. The corporate used deadstock yarns for the knitwear and old Our Legacy suiting fabrics for the barracuda jackets.

“That’s what ‘Work Shop’ does, it’s repurposing and taking good care of old things and conceptualizing, but with a British vibe,” added Hallin.

Hallin grew up ingrained with British hard-core punk, which he was introduced to by his father, who also listened to The Beatles and The Rolling Stones. 

“I’m really into music and I feel British post-punk is admittedly blowing up again with indie guitar-based music,” said Hallin, who listens to High Vis, Chubby and the Gang and The Chisel.

What Hallin finds most fascinating concerning the British aesthetic is that it will possibly be “so polished and posh, but have a punk attitude at the identical time — that’s what we desired to bring to this collection.

Our Legacy is experimenting with expanding its reach. The brand is deepening its work with Dover Street Market in Tokyo, Japan and is planning to open more locations in South Korea. Meanwhile, for Europe, a much bigger space in London is within the cards.

“I haven’t been to London because the pandemic and coming back here, it seems like stuff is admittedly happening and it’s a very good energy,” said Hallin, whose brand has a dedicated community in every city around Europe.

He sees the stories as a family home, whether in London or Berlin — for the project with Matchesfashion, he has partnered with store staff who’re already models or photographers, with the campaign shoot going down in each cities.

The brand has enlisted the assistance of former employers Khade and Grüner for the London pop-up.

Khade has arrange an embroidery station contained in the town house, where she’s stitching intricate details and symbols onto the clothes — and next to her, Grüner has his airbrushing and painting stall, decorating T-shirts and boots. On the opening day the demand was high with waiting times already reaching two hours. — Hikmat Mohammed

Stüssy Tears: Tremaine Emory looked to his roots for his latest collaboration between his Denim Tears label and streetwear brand Stüssy. 

Each brands revealed on Wednesday they’re releasing a capsule collection called Stüssy Tears that merge each brands’ aesthetics, featuring the Denim Tears’ Cotton Wreath insignia and Stüssy’s Double S logo. The gathering offers denim pieces, cardigans, sweatshirts, jackets, accessories and other styles. 

For the gathering, Emory looked to his hometown of Jamaica in Queens, Latest York, and was inspired by Latest York within the ’90s. 

Standout styles from the gathering include a camouflage-print jacket embellished with the Denim Tears’ wreath motif, Levi’s jeans embellished with the Stüssy logo and a gray knit cardigan. 

Styles from Stüssy and Denim Tears’ Stüssy Tears collection.

That is the third collaboration between Stüssy and Denim Tears. The brands previously teamed with Our Legacy, releasing two other apparel collections, one last yr and one this September. 

The collaboration with Stüssy was revealed just just a few days after Emory debuted his guest designed Dior Tears collection during Dior’s men’s pre-fall 2023 show, which took place in front of the pyramids at Giza. Emory’s collection was an homage to Black artists and creatives like James Baldwin and Miles Davis, who were celebrated in Europe in the course of the ‘50s while segregation was still going down within the U.S. 

“How they romanced the thought of being treated otherwise in Paris and Europe. That romance of being celebrated for who you might be, where you might be from, the way in which you reside, the way in which you dressed, your lifestyle and your talents is what we’ve focused on,” Emory told WWD concerning the collection. “I see a bunch of Black creatives doing the identical thing now, living in places they will be celebrated for who they’re.”

The Stüssy Tears collection will likely be available for purchase starting Friday at Denim Tears and Stüssy chapter stores, Stüssy’s website and choose Dover Street Market locations. — Layla Ilchi

Color-Coordinated: Pantone’s Color of the Yr 2023 now has a fragrance facet.

Viva Magenta Pantone 18-1750, the laureate, was chosen for its connection to nature, the way it lasts through centuries and into the long run.

Swiss fragrance and flavors maker Firmenich partnered with Pantone to create a perfume inspired by the hue. Called Live Daring Eau, it’s meant to capture “the exuberance, optimism and rebellious spirit of Viva Magenta,” Firmenich said in a press release released Wednesday.

Firmenich has launched Live Bold Eau, inspired by Pantone's color of the year for 2023.

Firmenich has launched Live Daring Eau, inspired by Pantone’s color of the yr for 2023.

Courtesy of Firmenich

The fragrance, formulated by senior perfumer Gabriela Chelariu, includes ingredients akin to Dragon Fruit Smell-the-Taste, exclusive to Firmenich, which teamed with trend agency LSN Future Laboratory to acknowledge trends and explore sensory partnerships.

“Our report showed that strength and optimism, characteristics expressed by Viva Magenta, were core values that we must always embrace in the long run,” said Ilaria Resta, president for global perfumery at Firmenich. Within the statement, she called Live Daring “the proper olfactive representation to bring those values to life.”

“Together, color and fragrance contribute to making a multisensorial and unforgettable experience for consumers,” said Chelariu. “Each have the facility to go away an imprint on us physically and emotionally. When the 2 are actively fused together in creation, it will possibly result in the invention of latest sensations.”

She had in mind the total spectrum of magenta, leading her so as to add accords of beet and magenta vetiver to the fragrance.

There’s a Live Daring scented candle, as well. Each the scent and the candle formulas have Emotivewaves Energy, Firmenich-created 100% natural essential oils said to evoke specific emotions. The candle’s fragrance features a Emotiboost Energy accord, too, to generate specific emotional responses, the corporate explained.

Live Daring has taken on one other, digital dimension, by entering the Metaverse, through framevr.io/colorofthe yr. — Jennifer Weil

Ready Player Makeup: The world’s biggest makeup brand is betting on the metaverse.

Maybelline Latest York has sponsored a digital fashion competition within the virtual realm, which took place Thursday. Called “Fashioning Masculinity,” the competition’s aim is for its participants to “reflect on the redefinition of dressing masculine identities,” per a press release from the brand.

maybelline metaverse

Maybelline Latest York sponsored the Fashioning Masculinities Digital Fashion Contest.

Photo courtesy of Maybelline Latest York

The initiative falls under Maybelline’s continued collaboration with Ready Player Me on makeup looks for metaverse avatars, along side hair styles from sister brand L’Oréal Professionnel.

The competition was created in partnership with digital fashion brand Artisant, in addition to Jenny Metaverse Dao, a up to date art collection within the space. The competition takes place on Spatial in Agora Space.

The strategic goal of the sponsorship is to fulfill consumers where they’re, said Shivani Shah, senior vp of worldwide brand experience at Maybelline Latest York. “Today, our consumers are in multiple worlds. They’re within the physical world, they’re within the digital world, and now they’re within the virtual world,” she said. “Our objective is to mirror the strategy that we’ve within the physical world, so for us as Maybelline, we would like to offer makeup.”

With the space being so nascent, Shah said “the usual KPIs that we measure ourselves against today just don’t really stand. What these sorts of competitions and initiatives allow us to do is to construct brand love and proximity with consumers in a really targeted way. This competition is fashion designers, they’re in the style world, and that is a chance for us to actually be where they’re.”

Jenny Metaverse Doa will purchase the primary, second and third-place designs for 1 ETH, 0.7 ETH and 0.3 ETH, respectively. Those winners are Creature by Morchen Liu, Duality by Monika and Dandy by Florencia Arezzo.

Maybelline will collaborate with the latter on a Ready Player Me makeup drop for avatars, while L’Oréal Professionnel will team with Machismo with Frills by On-Click Closet for hair. — James Manso

Giving Back: The Global Eco Artisan Awards for 2022 took place Wednesday morning, with a highlight on indigenous craft.

The GEAA platform — placed on by the Agaati Foundation — is designed to rejoice, connect and champion emerging artisans around the globe. Within the inaugural event held last yr, designer Bibhu Mohapatra was among the many judges. This yr, sustainable fashion advocate Aditi Mayer, dressmaker Naeem Khan and Global Fashion Exchange founder Patrick Duffy were on the judging panel, which spanned categories of craft, textiles, jewelry and décor.

A greyscale image of four Chuba Ko weavers, one of the winning teams, for this year's competition of the Global Eco Artisan Awards.

Chuba Ko weavers, certainly one of the winning teams for this yr’s competition of the Global Eco Artisan Awards.

Courtesy Chuba Ko

A keynote speech was delivered by journalist Bandana Tewari (who can be a mentor, ambassador and Agaati Foundation board member) for the second yr in a row. Her keynote titled “The Humanity of Creativity” highlighted the importance of community.

“You give back. You give back to the community. You give back to the environment,” she summarized in the course of the virtual awards ceremony.

Though their names and artisanal techniques may yet be unfamiliar to the worldwide fashion industry, the participants know the access the GEAA stage provides hundreds of viewers worldwide.

Even being among the many finalists is very important for bridging would-be partnerships with brands and designers, crucial to securing their economic livelihoods in addition to crafts. The complete list of finalists includes Esme Hofman, Julien Feller, Suresh Lawot Tuladhar and Nanasei Agyemang (for home décor); Verde Alfieri, Karim Oukid Ouksel, Kumiko Kihara, Nino Misriashvili and Ikramzhan Rafikov (for jewelry); Tejsi Marwada, Nana Addae Gyamera, Bholanath Karmakar and Chubako (for endangered craft); Firdose Ahmad Jan, Sanjar Nazarov, Pitchuka Srinivas, Gohar Sajid and Sufiyan Ismail Khatri (for surface décor); and Porfirio Gutierrez, Renny Manurung, Santosh Gupta and Sapna Vedula (for handwoven textiles).

Winners like Chuba Ko — a women-led project preserving indigenous wool-felting techniques within the village of Chuba in South Sikkim, India — offered their remarks on the importance of the awards ceremony to their community. Chuba Ko is funded by the National Bank for Agriculture and Rural Development, and seeks to interact, empower and enable women of Chuba. The weavers have preserved the indigenous wool-making practice that has been passed down for generations.

“Thanks Agaati Foundation for the popularity and the award to our growing efforts in sharing the wisdom of the mountains with the world,” Chuba Ko weavers wrote on Instagram. Today, their projects span cushion covers and rugs in a swath of charcoal hues in floral motifs.

Last yr the Agaati Foundation received 400 artisan submissions across categories, of which 80 percent were from women showcasing the worth of craft in gender equity. Together with mentorship, winners receive $2,000 to place toward their businesses. Judging decisions are based on three criteria: authenticity, adaptability and quality. — Kaley Roshitsh

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