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3 Jul

Pharrell Hits a Billion, Moschino Taps Yu, Dior’s Vibrant Touch

ONE BILLION: Pharrell Williams’ debut show for Louis Vuitton was a rankings hit.

The spring 2024 menswear collection broke records by garnering 775 million views on its owned platforms, and a further 300 million video views on press accounts, covering each livestream and content across the show and attending celebrities including Beyoncé, Rihanna, Zendaya and Kim Kardashian.

By comparison, its fall 2023 show, which featured a live performance by Rosalía, generated 441 million views on the brand’s platforms, Vuitton said. It didn’t provide a figure for organic views on media accounts for last season.

The world’s biggest luxury brand reported the event, held on the Pont Neuf bridge on the opening day of Paris Fashion Week Men’s, generated an enormous volume of online discussion, with greater than 42,000 original posts mentioning the show and 1.2 million re-tweets.

Within the wake of the runway display, the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned brand broke the brink of three million subscribers on YouTube, making it probably the most followed luxury label on the platform, with 15 million views of the principal film of the show.

Prior to the event, which included a performance by Jay-Z, Vuitton reached 10 million followers on TikTok, making it the leader amongst luxury brands on that platform as well. The number has since grown to 11.1 million followers.

The brand has garnered greater than 1.7 billion views and 65 million likes because it launched on TikTok in 2020. The live broadcast of the menswear show on TikTok was viewed by 1 million people and garnered 2 million likes. Within the space of a couple of hours, the posh house gained 100,000 recent followers, it said. — JOELLE DIDERICH

MOSCHIN-YU: Moschino is adding to the wave of ambassadorship announcements, naming Chinese musician, actress and entertainer Yu Shu Xin, aka Esther Yu, its recent house ambassador. 

Esther Yu wearing a Moschino pre-fall 2023 look.

Courtesy of Moschino

Appearing within the label’s pre-fall 2023 promoting campaign, Yu has been tapped because “her charismatic intuition and enchanting performances seamlessly harmonize with the brand’s daring and avant-garde spirit,” in accordance with an announcement released by the brand, which is controlled by Aeffe Group.

“Esther’s charming presence in front of the camera, coupled along with her affinity to timeless style and fashion as a method of self-expression, perfectly embodies Moschino’s ethos,” said Massimo Ferretti, chairman of Aeffe. 

“Moschino’s fashion attitude has all the time resonated with me and their unwavering commitment to innovation sets an exceptional industry standard. I’m deeply honored to collaborate with the brand as house ambassador, and eagerly anticipate creating exciting moments together,” added Yu.

Yu made her acting debut within the 2016 television drama “Border Town Prodigal,” followed by appearances in “The Advisors Alliance” in 2017 and “Youth” in 2018.

In 2020, Yu participated in the range program “Youth With You 2” and have become one of the vital popular trainees on the show, debuting as a member of temporary girl group The9. That very same 12 months, she gained popularity and recognition for her role within the hit romance drama “Find Yourself,” followed by the “Moonlight” TV series in 2021 and the fantasy show “Love Between Fairy and Devil” last 12 months.

Last month, Yu was seen in Paris attending the Givenchy men’s spring 2024 fashion show.

As for Moschino’s shows, the upcoming one is scheduled for Sept. 21 in Milan and set to mark the brand’s fortieth anniversary. 

As reported, the event during Milan Fashion Week can pay tribute to the achievements and legacy of founder Franco Moschino. For the occasion, stylists Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Katie Grand, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson and Lucia Liu will spearhead the gathering, each creating 10 contemporary looks inspired by the works of the late designer.

Moschino has not yet revealed a successor to its last creative director Jeremy Scott, who exited the brand in March after 10 years. — SANDRA SALIBIAN

REBEL YELL: Maria Grazia Chiuri’s fall collection for Dior was a mostly monochrome affair, but for the promoting campaign, Brigitte Niedermair bathed models in a halo of color. Ana Oliveira, Maryel Uchida, Florencia Mayer, Sophia Lisboa and Abeny Nhial are outlined in luminous green, blue or pink in the pictures.  

Chiuri was inspired by the ’50s — the heyday of founder Christian Dior that continues to be the bedrock of the posh brand’s communications strategy.

But fairly than rehashing archival designs, the designer delved into the stories of three heroines who shaped the post-war years in Paris. Dior’s sister Catherine, a French Resistance fighter during World War II, and singers Édith Piaf and Juliette Gréco inspired a lineup that had greater than a touch of beatnik about it.

The Dior fall 2023 ready-to-wear campaign

The Dior fall 2023 ready-to-wear campaign.

Brigitte Niedermair/Courtesy of Dior

Lisboa channeled an androgynous vibe in a crinkled men’s shirt and tie paired with baggy jeans, while Oliveira projected retro chic in a black moiré effect trench coat with a draped shawl collar. Accessories included the Dior Key and Dior Toujours handbags.

Niedermair provided the creative direction for the campaign, set to interrupt in print on Saturday. It was styled by Elin Svahn, with Peter Philips in command of makeup and Olivier Schawalder doing hair.  The sets were designed by Alexander Bock, an everyday collaborator of the home.

Niedermair’s decade-long relationship with Dior was the topic of a coffee-table book published by Rizzoli Recent York last 12 months. “Photographie: Christian Dior by Brigitte Niedermair” featured her elegantly sparse images of Chiuri’s designs alongside her forensic tackle the French fashion house’s archives. — J.D.

TEAM SPIRIT: Jean-François Palus, second-in-command at French luxury group Kering since 2008, would most definitely applaud this fashion trend: Rugby shirts made a minor comeback throughout the recent men’s fashion weeks for spring 2024.

Jean-François Palus and François-Henri Pinault

Jean-François Palus and François-Henri Pinault

Courtesy of Kering

Palus was captain of his university rugby team, and the game seems to have shaped him as an individual, and a business leader, an audience in Paris heard Thursday night as the chief was decorated with an Ordre national du Mérite, a French honorific for distinguished civil achievements.

Serge Weinberg, chief executive officer of Kering’s precursor PPR until 2005, did the honors, pinning the vivid blue medallion on Palus’ left lapel in front of a crowd that included Kering chairman and CEO François-Henri Pinault, sustainability executive Marie-Claire Daveu, Kering Beauté chief Raffaella Cornaggia, Bottega Veneta CEO Bartolomeo Rongone and Pascal Morand, executive president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.

Over 32 years working for the Pinault family, initially with its timber business, later with its Fnac and Conforama retail chains, Palus would settle into mostly financial roles on the group level, also overseeing mergers and acquisitions for several years.

Weinberg suggested rugby likely impacted Palus’ negotiating technique, “and the customarily manly way during which you approach certain subjects or express certain opinions.”

“You’re there, you, along with your convictions — sincere, loyal, courageous,” he said, also jesting that Palus needed to balance his passion for sports with the necessity to wear barely fitted Brioni suits for business.

A soft-spoken, low-key executive who selected a scruffy, mid-laugh photo of himself for Kering’s corporate website, Palus said he insisted on the conglomerate’s Left Bank headquarters to receive the glory “to obviously mark what it represents in my eyes: Recognition shared with group employees.

“In rugby, the star is the team,” he explained. “It imposes a way of community and solidarity.”

Pinault was the primary to congratulate Palus, kissing him on each cheeks. Then guests repaired to the garden for Champagne and nibbles, having fun with the breezy summer evening.

A graduate of French business school HEC, Palus began his profession with Arthur Andersen as an auditor and financial adviser.

He became group chief financial officer in 2005 before assuming his current role of group managing director. In that capability, he contributes to the event of the group’s strategy, manages its implementation and ensures optimal operational efficiency.

As well as, Palus been a member of Kering’s board since 2009. — MILES SOCHA

GUCCI FETES SINNER: Winner, winner, Gucci dinner.

The posh Italian brand hosted a non-public dinner at Mount St. Restaurant in Mayfair for tennis player and Gucci ambassador Jannik Sinner, who signed on with the brand last 12 months.

Guests including Emma Laird, Paapa Essiedu, Olympia of Greece, Pixie Geldof, Imogen Kwok and Jazzy de Lisser got here together for the pre-game celebrations.

Sinner shall be competing for a 3rd time on the Wimbledon Championships. He’s currently ranked at number eight at 21 years old.

Olympia of Greece.

Courtesy of Gucci/James D.Kelly

That is the Italian player’s first luxury fashion endorsement. He also has a 10-year cope with Nike, which in accordance with reports is value 150 million euros.

Earlier this month, Gucci took over The Savoy hotel to have a good time its Bamboo 1947 bag with a cocktail reception and dinner hosted by De Lisser, who has change into a friend of the home.

Drinks took place within the Royal Suite by Gucci on the hotel, a spot where the Italian brand has strong connections.

Within the early twentieth century, Guccio Gucci worked as a luggage porter at The Savoy. His observations of guests coming out and in with their exquisite luggage is what inspired him to begin an artisanal luggage atelier in 1921.

Emma Laird Jannik sinner

Jannik Sinner and Emma Laird

Courtesy of Gucci/James D.Kelly

In 2021, the hotel collaborated with Gucci on the transformation of the Royal Suite, featuring pieces from the Gucci Décor line: wallpaper with the brand’s double G logo; monogrammed cushions; scented candles, and more.

Last 12 months, Gucci arrange shop inside London’s famed luxury hotel, taking on the Savoy Tea Shop on the bottom floor for 3 months, which often sells tea and cake.
The short residency was a celebration of Gucci’s travel offerings, including trunks, trolleys, duffel bags, suitcases, garment bags, travel sets, stationery and pet accessories. — HIKMAT MOHAMMED

PRADA’S THAI EXTENSION: The fourth edition of Prada Extends, a series of worldwide events created in partnership with electronic musician Richie Hawtin, traveled to Bangkok on Thursday, hosting a panel discussion and a celebration on the Warehouse Stadium in town’s Khlong Toei district.

Thai stars including Pongtiwat Tangwancharoen, Kanyawee Songmuang and Krissanapoom Pibulsonggram attended the event held on the Prada store inside upscale shopping center Iconsiam, where they attended exchanges between Hawtin and Arun Ramanathan, director of the international media platform Mixmag Asia, on the facility of music today. It was followed by a performance by Bangkok DJ and music curator Elaheh.

Richie Hawtin and Arun Ramanathan attend Prada Extends Bangkok

Richie Hawtin and Arun Ramanathan attend Prada Extends Bangkok.

Getty Images for Prada

At night, the Prada Extends party offered a lineup that featured Hawtin himself, Elaheh, Vietnam-born DJ and former model BongBongQuayQuay, and Sarayu, DJ and producer, also often called a member of UNSTๆ, an electronic artist collective based in Bangkok.

Their music performances were accompanied by visual arts from two Thai talents, Chaiyapat Natt Plubsiri and Supitchkran Sriprasert. Each of them have worked closely with Hawtin’s long-term collaborator Ali Demirel.

First introduced in London in November 2021, Prada Extends traveled to Tokyo and the Faena Forum Miami last 12 months. For Hawtin, the Bangkok edition celebrated “the range and intensity of this vast metropolis, connecting the local creative community through an experience in sight and sound.”

“For me, Bangkok resonates with a singular frequency attracting a particular collection of like-minded people from across Asia. The dance floor brought together a real melting pot of ideas and inspiration,” he added. — TIANWEI ZHANG

LONDON SUNSHINE: Nicky and Simone Zimmermann are taking the Australian sun with them in every single place they go.

“We hit our high point particularly in the summertime. This time of 12 months is just amazing for us. We walk into the stores and it’s so busy, which is all the time a thrill,” said Simone Zimmermann, cofounder of the label along with her sister, Nicky, during an interview in London.

The sisters recently shot their resort 2024 collection in Pennsylvania in an old house that was crumbling and falling down, which reminded them of the dance halls of the ‘50s and ‘60s.

“I noticed once I was away in Madrid last 12 months for a store opening after which later in Paris that there have been couples and folks dancing within the streets, it was just something you wouldn’t see in Australia,” Nicky said.

Nicky Simone zimmermann

Nicky and Simone Zimmermann

Courtesy of Zimmermann

“It made us look into dance halls and I just found all these amazing candid images, which is where the gathering got here from,” she added.

The sisters all the time feel surprised once they’re traveling and see women wearing Zimmermann.

“I used to be in Monte Carlo, which shouldn’t be necessarily somewhere where we might go on holiday, but we’re going to open a store there soon. I used to be walking around with my husband and a few friends and I counted one, two, three, oh my God, I’m very glad we’re opening a store here,” said Nicky, keeping the date of the brand new store under wraps.

The Australian brand made its Paris Fashion Week debut in 2022 with a show on the Petit Palais, where it has arrange a secondary design office. Prior to that, Zimmermann presented its collections at Recent York Fashion Week. — H.M.

SNEAKER COLLAB: American footwear and clothing brand Autry has teamed up with 10 Corso Como to create a recent limited-edition sneaker — the Medalist shoe — inspired by vintage models from the ’80s.

The unisex sneakers can be found in white and are fabricated from leather. The ten Corso Como black logo appears on the tongue, insole and heel of the shoes.

The 10 Corso Como x Autry sneakers.

The ten Corso Como x Autry sneakers.

Courtesy Image

The ten Corso Como x Autry sneakers retail at 210 euros and can be found to buy at Milan’s storied 10 Corso Como store address, at Forte Village in Sardinia and on its e-commerce site.

Autry was created in 1982 in Texas by Jim Autry and rapidly became known for its American flag logo. The brand was relaunched internationally in 2019 within the sneaker and ready-to-wear segments.

With a 2022 turnover of 90 million euros, the brand today is distributed in Europe, Asia and the U.S.

In 2021, the Made in Italy Fund, which is managed by Quadrivio and Pambianco and invests in wine, food, beauty, fashion and furniture, took a majority stake in Autry and footwear brand Ghoud. The fund has invested in 10 Italian firms, of which six are in fashion, from 120% Lino and Rosantica to Dondup and GCDS.

Two years ago, Autry launched its first apparel collection. 

Previous 10 Corso Como partnerships included a tie-up in January with Plan C, and one other in February with Giorgio Armani.

The capsule collection with Armani was presented during Milan Fashion Week and included oversize shirts, duster coats, blouses, shorts and high-waisted trousers, all in unwashed denim.

With Plan C, the capsule included the brand’s signature canvas tote style, which mixed the ten Corso Como logo with the Pili and Bianca hand-sketched characters conceived by Plan C founder Carolina Castiglioni’s daughter Margherita, of her brother Filippo and friend Bianca. — ANDREA ONATE

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