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29 Jun

Phoebe Philo Is Almost Able to Dress You From

Phoebe Philo’s long-awaited latest signature collection will include ready-to-wear, leather goods, jewelry, eyewear and footwear, sources told WWD.

It is known the greater than 150 styles planned for September release will likely be available at a dedicated online store initially shipping to the U.K., Europe and the U.S.

The identical sources said Philo has lined up Daria Werbowy to be a face of the brand. The designer had continuously featured the Canadian model, several times in a tub, for a few of her most memorable Celine campaigns.

Werbowy has been sitting on fashion’s sidelines in recent times, but still counts 266,000 followers on Instagram.

Contacted by WWD on Wednesday, a spokeswoman for the designer declined all comment.

Philo, who at all times kept the press at arm’s length, has been skimpy on details since she confirmed in July 2021 that she could be returning to fashion after a four-year break with an independent, namesake house — and with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton as a minority investor.

On the time, the British designer said she would create clothes and niknaks “rooted in exceptional quality and design,” adding: “I’m very much looking forward to being back in contact with my audience and folks all over the place. To be independent, to manipulate and experiment alone terms is hugely significant to me.”

Last February, Philo sparked up an official Instagram account for her signature fashion house, and the primary post noted that her inaugural collection “will likely be revealed and available on our website, Phoebephilo.com, in September 2023.”

“We will likely be opening for registration in July 2023 and look ahead to being back in contact then,” it added.

The Instagram account boasts greater than 190,000 followers, with zero posts. It follows nobody.

Given her cult following, powerful instincts and antennae keenly attuned to the zeitgeist, Philo’s return to fashion will little doubt elicit cheers from consumers, editors and retailers — and maybe some nail-biting and angst amongst her designer peers.

Sources said Philo plans to cultivate relationships with the very best customers from her long, acclaimed tenure at Celine, when she made that brand a byword for modernist sophistication — and herself one of the crucial bankable and influential designers of her generation.

It echoes how luxury’s biggest brands and retailers are actually counting on their wealthiest customers for the lion’s share of their revenues — and KOLs to be unofficial ambassadors of the brand.

It is known the designer won’t return to the runway for at the least one other 12 months, if ever, and open any stores until 2026, the sources suggested.

Philo is best known for engineering a brand rejuvenation during a 10-year tenure at Celine, one among about 75 brands controlled by LVMH. Season after season, she minted womanly, modernist clothing and distinctive handbags, accruing an intensely loyal fan base.

A graduate of London’s Central Saint Martins fashion school, Philo was classmates with Stella McCartney and worked together with her when McCartney launched her own collection after graduation. Philo followed McCartney to Chloé in 1997 and took the highest job in 2001 when McCartney left to establish her own fashion house in a three way partnership with Gucci Group.

Together with her striking personal style, Philo succeeded in accelerating Chloé’s rejuvenation and catapulting it into the high-margin leather goods business. She became known for fashions that deftly blended masculine elements like trousers and such feminine fare as frilly blouses.

She resigned from Chloé in 2006 for private reasons, citing a want to spend more time together with her young children.

Three years later, after lengthy discussions with LVMH about launching a namesake brand, Philo wound up on the helm of Céline, where she debuted a more fashion-forward, minimalist aesthetic, tinged with arty touches. Her collections exceeded all revenue expectations and won wide acclaim, despite her reticence about e-commerce. She exited in 2017.

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