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1 May

Power Dressing, Activewear Star in Matchesfashion’s Fall 2023 Buying Report

LONDON — Matchesfashion’s flame is burning brilliant for fall 2023.

On Wednesday, the brand shared their women’s and menswear fall 2023 predictions and what they will probably be buying into for the approaching season.

In January, private equity investor Apax gave Matchesfashion a vote of confidence in the form of 60 million kilos in fresh funding.

The investment comes on the heels of an improved performance under the most recent chief executive officer Nick Beighton, who joined the retailer last summer. The 60 million kilos consists of 40 million kilos in fresh equity and 20 million kilos in debt. 

It represents Apax’s largest commitment to Matchesfashion because it purchased the corporate in 2017 from founders Tom and Ruth Chapman and other investors.

“We’ll find a way to raised utilize technology, product, logistics and culture to assist grow the highest line of the business in addition to our profitability,” Beighton told WWD on the time, expressing confidence in his executive team and strategy.

Because the retailer enters its thirty sixth 12 months, that is what it announced for fall 2023.

On the ladies’s side, Matches is betting on large bags, ballet flats and sneakers. Bags had a 290 percent increase year-over-year, with key styles from Bottega Veneta and Loewe; ballet flats, an of-the-moment TikTok trend, were up 294 percent from the prior 12 months. Sneakers were up 133 percent from the prior 12 months.

Prada fall 2023

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

There are also increases for leather jackets (79 percent), day tops (39 percent), red dresses (23 percent) and coats (22 percent).

In menswear, the retailer leaned more into suiting and activewear. Suits were up 208 percent, and activewear was up 158 percent. The important thing brands Matchesfashion are investing into are Ostrya, Jacques, Norda, Columbia and Houdini.

Shirts enjoyed an 80 percent increase year-on-year; knitwear, 39 percent; coats, 35 percent and formal shoes, 39 percent.

Loewe Men’s Fall 2023

Loewe men’s fall 2023

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

“Tailoring was the star of the show with myriad fabrications and textures articulating the intricate craftsmanship of the renowned archetype that’s ‘The Suit.’ The mood was precision, with designers presenting their technical capabilities with neatly finished trousers and well-tailored sleeve lengths to showcase suiting that might be dressed up for business or more relaxed for on a regular basis,” said Damien Paul, head of menswear buying at Matchesfashion.

“What was clear throughout was a more thoughtful approach to dressing, where shape and form allow our customer to curate their individual style with some cuts relaxed and boxy and others sharp and slim,” he added.

Liane Wiggins, head of womenswear at Matchesfashion, agreed that power dressing returns with a latest seductive mood.

“This season, power dressing is less focused on borrowing from menswear and as an alternative instills a sense of ladies dressing for themselves with confidence. Fierce tailoring is juxtaposed with a refined, elegant approach. Chiffon blouses with exaggerated trains at Saint Laurent are worn with blazers and cigarette pants, showing how women will wear this trend in a soft yet sharp way,” she said.

Bottega Veneta RTW Fall 2023

Bottega Veneta fall 2023

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

The brands Matchesfashion are championing across women’s and men’s are Alaïa, Bite Studios, Our Legacy, Diesel, Lurline, Róhe, Karu Research and Saman Amel, a Stockholm-based atelier that the posh retailer will probably be working on an exclusive capsule collection with.

On each side of the category at Matchesfashion, the buyers are deeming coats to be the massive hero piece of the season, through brands resembling Loewe, Khaite, Prada, Lemaire and Jil Sander.

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