Quiet luxury shows no sign of slowing down. The trend has jumped from the worldwide women’s and men’s ready-to-wear collections to dominating the autumn 2023 runways of Paris Haute Couture.

As international editor Miles Socha noted in his review of Kim Jones’ Fendi collection, deceptive simplicity was considered one of the massive stories of the week, “with many designers preferring austere silhouettes achieved with as few seams as possible.” Jones’ gossamer naked dresses in earth tones were the apex of “quiet luxury.” 

Just don’t call it that when referring to Alexandre Vauthier’s toned-down collection. “That’s not my viewpoint,” the designer told WWD’s Rhonda Richford. Vauthier showed le smoking tuxedo suits and evening dresses with nary a sparkle in sight. Despite Vauthier’s protestation, these were, “each quieter — in a deep palette that bypassed the intense pops of fluorescent colours he’s favored in recent seasons — and opulent.”  

At Chanel, Virginie Viard channeled “the allure of the Parsienne,” embodied by Caroline de Marguerite who opened in a classic tweed topcoat, giving approach to other riffs on the French girl uniform like the standard, yet impeccably tailored ivory shirt and knee-length skirt seen here. “I wanted it to feel easy but elegant,” Viard told Joelle Diderich of the outdoor show on a quai along the river Seine. 

Meanwhile, Maria Grazia Chiuri took inspiration from antiquity with a lineup of pleated sheath-style gowns that mimicked Grecian columns. These were according to “what founder Christian Dior described because the “apparent simplicity” of designs made to suit like a glove.”