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30 Jun

Sabyasachi Mukherjee Sweeps London, Bernard Arnault Makes an Impression

ANIMAL INSTINCTS: Maximalist designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee swept into London, and into British royal circles this week, bearing a bunch of special creations.

He showed his high jewelry collection at Lancaster House, round the corner to St. James’s Palace, and created the white elephant-shaped shola masks that King Charles III and Queen Camilla wore to the Animal Ball, a fundraiser in aid of the Elephant Family charity on Wednesday night.

Elephant Family is a charity cofounded by Mark Shand, Queen Camilla’s late brother, that works to guard Asia’s wildlife and natural landscapes.

“Save the elephants, and then you definately save the forest — and then you definately save yourself,” Shand told W Magazine, WWD’s former sister publication, in 2008. The charming Shand fell for his first elephant, Tara, within the ’80s and all the time said the encounter modified his life.

Mukherjee is on the identical page as Shand.

He described his high jewelry collection, which he called The Animal Ball Edition, as a group of “modern heirlooms” and an homage to endangered animals, with pieces crafted by heritage artisans.

The high jewelry pieces on display at Lancaster House were statement with a capital “S,” and as fat and colourful as summer fruits. Artisans used techniques resembling hand-enamelling on gold; weaving precious stones and pearls using silk thread, and hand molding and setting precious stones in gold.

One necklace featured a 109.95-carat Zambian emerald, while a jewel-encrusted bracelet showcased a ten.14-carat tourmaline. The Lancaster House display was dizzying. Prices were on request.

A day after unveling the high jewelry collection, Mukherjee made one other big reveal, handing traditional white shola masks to the king and queen. He said the masks were made by hand using age-old artisanal techniques and materials by the master craftspeople of Bengal.

Shola refers back to the craft of carving sholapith, a spongey cork from an aquatic plant that grows within the marshlands of Bengal. The king’s and queen’s masks were featured two ornate elephant heads with the trunks touching.

Other masked guests on Wednesday night at Lancaster House included Kristin Scott Thomas, Christian Louboutin, Brian May and Marc Quinn.

“The Elephant Family and I are committed to similar, but different, missions,” Mukherjee said. “While I aim to preserve endangered heritage crafts, they conserve endangered wildlife and habitats. It’s my privilege and honor to be a component of their cause.”

Sabyasachi’s business is in expansion mode. He has flagship stores in major cities across India; a jewellery boutique in Dubai, and his first international flagship launched in Latest York last yr. — SAMANTHA CONTI

SUMMER LAUNCHES: Gucci is marking summer with several recent activations at its East Hampton boutique. Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura Beverly Hills, the Michelin-starred Los Angeles restaurant that’s one in every of town’s most coveted reservations, is appearing out east this summer and is partnering with Sant Ambroeus on a special edition cookie. Mattia Agazzi and Tamara Rigo, head chef and pastry chef of Gucci Osteria, respectively, have collaborated with the team at Sant Ambroeus to create a Gucci touch on Sant Ambroeus’ fan favorite Ventaglio al Caffé cookie. The cookie tin, which launches Friday and is accessible on the market exclusively within the Hamptons for $45, is decorated with historical motifs from the Gucci Archive. 

Gucci East Hampton

Gucci East Hampton

Yvonne Tnt/BFA.com

Gucci East Hampton may also feature recent pieces from the Gucci Summer Stories, a group of warm-weather pieces, and the boutique’s windows shall be specially designed for the Fourth of July weekend.

The East Hampton store shall be the only real U.S. location to supply exclusive pieces from the Vault Summer collection with Agua by Agua Bendita. Vault, Gucci’s experimental concept store, will stock pieces from eight different brands: Agua by Agua Bendita, emerging Latest York designer Connor McKnight; Parisian menswear brand Husbands; Judith Leiber Couture; Maison Michel hats; Prounis Jewelry; Rowing Blazers and, finally, Vans. — LEIGH NORDSTROM

FORTUNE TOUR: After a day trip in Beijing, Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, spent Wednesday in Chengdu and Thursday in Shanghai during his whirlwind China trip.

Bernard Arnault

Bernard Arnault

Getty Images

Customers who caught wind of his whereabouts crowded shopping malls to glimpse him up close. Perhaps their only likelihood to see the person of such great fortune in person, they documented his visit with enthusiasm and deity-like worship, hailing him as “the god of fortunes.” 

Despite a growing variety of fortune-seekers trekking along at every stop, Arnault took his time to examine many LVMH-owned retail outposts intimately.

Arnault and a bunch of LVMH executives, including his daughter, Delphine Arnault, chairman and CEO of Christian Dior Couture; his youngest son Jean Arnault, director of promoting and development, Louis Vuitton watches; Michael Schriver, LVMH group president North Asia; Charles Delapalme, CEO of Christian Dior Couture; Pietro Beccari, chairman and CEO of Louis Vuitton, were joined by the pinnacle of local retail partners on his store visits, which included SinoOcean Taikoo Li Chengdu, Chengdu IFS, Chengdu SKP, Shanghai’s Taikoo Li Qiantan, HKRI Taikoo Hui, Zhang Yuan, Shanghai IFC and Plaza 66.

“The weather was amazing, the mall was packed, Mr. Bernard Arnault was much more gracious, kinder and happier than the last time he visited,” Molly Wu, general manager of SinoOcean Taikoo Li Chengdu shared on Xiaohongshu, the favored social commerce platform.

Arnault’s high-profile China trip is viewed as an efficient technique to reiterate the importance of the China market and boost team morale. 

“The move is to inform shoppers and native partners that the corporate is confident and has high hopes for the longer term of the China market, especially now that the market is experiencing an uneven economic recovery,” said Ting Zhou, dean of Yaok Institute, a luxury research and consulting organization in China. 

“The pinnacle of luxury brands wish to be on the bottom to acquire more firsthand information that may higher inform their decision-making process and management strategy,” Zhou added.

Based on sources on Chinese social media, Arnault shall be heading to Hong Kong Friday.

Despite an uncertain economic outlook, the China market continues to be a essential driver of growth for LVMH, and helped lift group revenue by 17 percent in the primary quarter. 

Arnault’s China visit follows trips made by Elon Musk, CEO of Tesla and Jamie Dimon, CEO of JP Morgan, to Beijing last month. In recent months, Chinese authorities have been keen to woo global executives to assuage concern that the country is closing off to foreign business despite last December’s reopening. 

In the course of the opening ceremony of the World Economic Forum’s Annual Meeting of the Latest Champions in Tianjin this Tuesday, Chinese Premier Li Qiang urged countries to “strengthen dialogue, bridge differences and enhance consensus to avoid misunderstandings and miscalculations.”

Li said China “firmly opposes politicizing economic and trade issues” and stressed that “openness and cooperation needs to be cherished.”

Li concluded his speech by saying that China stays confident that it could achieve this yr’s economic growth goal of “around 5 percent.” He remained confident that second-quarter gross domestic product growth could surpass first quarter’s 4.5 percent. — DENNI HU

RESALE PLANS: Italy’s Giglio.com is the third luxury e-tailer to team up with Vestiaire Collective globally, entering the resale model, seen overall as a powerful driver for the high-end sector.  

Following within the footsteps of Mytheresa and LuisaViaRoma, which inked similar deals over the past couple of years, the publicly listed online shopping destination is leveraging Vestiaire Collective’s prowess and equity within the secondhand market to launch its own circular project.

It would enable its customers to sell their previously worn fashions in exchange for credits to be spent on recent goods on the e-commerce site. Giglio.com will offer clients adopting the service a premium on each sold item corresponding to 10 percent of the sold good’s value.

“This prestigious partnership seamlessly marries our value-driven trajectory when it comes to environmental sustainability and circular economy awareness-raising approach in the style industry,” said Giuseppe Giglio, president and chief executive officer of Giglio.com.

The project kicks off Thursday and is prolonged to customers in Europe, the U.K. and the U.S. Each e-commerce platforms will launch a landing page dedicated to the initiative, which is able to involve around 50 brands at start.

“Providing our clients with the likelihood to provide a second likelihood to their garments is a recent step toward a more responsible shopping experience, strengthening our positioning as trend setters within the sector,” Giglio said.

Giglio.com is joining forces with Vestiaire Collective to enter the resale arena.

Giglio.com is joining forces with Vestiaire Collective to enter the resale arena.

Courtesy of Giglio.com

The retailer, which has operated five physical boutiques in Palermo, Italy, since 1965, and added a web based platform in 1996, posted sales of 51.1 million euros in 2022, up 35 percent year-over-year. In 2021, the corporate landed on the Milan Bourse, listing its shares on the AIM Italia, the Stock Exchange’s program dedicated to small and medium-size corporations.

Dounia Wone, chief impact officer at Vestiaire Collective, touted the partnership as one other step in spearheading a circular transition of the style sector.

“We’re enthusiastic to maintain collaborating with a few of an important players within the sector to shape a more sustainable future,” she said. “Our positive impact on the style industry grows as our collective [of partnering companies] increases,” she added. — MARTINO CARRERA

DRESSING UP: As summer gets underway, men and women are stepping out with dressier wardrobes. U.S. sales for adult tailored clothing and other dress clothing increased by 5 percent from January through April, 2023, led by men’s dress shirts, men’s suits and ladies’s skirts. The truth is, the dress clothing market is larger than it was pre-pandemic, with sales revenue 8 percent higher than 2019 levels, in response to Circana, formerly IRI and The NPD Group.

“Hybrid work can be hybrid play,” said Maria Rugolo, apparel industry analyst at Circana. “Dressier trends, coinciding with the return to offices, events, travel and other activities, have consumers mixing and matching how they’re wearing their wardrobes a mirrored image of the hybrid lifestyle that has turn out to be second nature to many. Men and ladies are pairing styles together in non-traditional ways, resembling from wearing blazers with shorts and lively pants with dressier tops. This yr, the fusion of casual and dress attire is especially outstanding. People want their apparel to be adaptable.”

In the ladies’s market, sales of dresses showed a slight dip this yr, following a spike last yr, as consumers likely made replenishment purchases. Nevertheless, the marketplace for dresses continues to be 12 percent larger than it was in 2019, and dresses are currently the top-selling clothing items in the general apparel market, in response to Circana.

In the lads’s category, higher-priced suits are leading sales within the tailored clothing business and are the best they’ve been for the reason that pre-pandemic period. — LISA LOCKWOOD

POP FASHION: Iconic looks in pop cultures designed by British fashion designers — resembling the swan dress designed by Marjan Pejoski that Björk wore to the Oscars in 2001 and a Harri latex suit worn by Sam Smith to this yr’s Brit Awards — will go on display on the upcoming “Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion” exhibition on the Design Museum.

More details concerning the exhibition, which goals to have fun the thirtieth anniversary of the British Fashion Council’s Newgen program and can run from Sept. 16 to Feb. 11, 2024, were revealed Thursday.

09/20/2006 Model wearing Christopher Kane London Fashion Week Antonio Barros (Photo by Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/WireImage) *** Local Caption ***

Christopher Kane, spring 2007

WireImage

The exhibition may also showcase the outfit Harry Styles wore in his music video for “Golden” by S.S. Daley; a neon purple dress from Christopher Kane’s debut spring 2007 catwalk collection; the upcycled Union Jack jacket by Russell Sage that was worn by Kate Moss for British Vogue, and the Molly Goddard blue ruffle dress Rihanna wore and which later went viral on Instagram.

Craig Green spring 2015

Craig Green, spring 2015

Courtesy of the Design Museum

Together, the showcase will feature around 100 looks from groundbreaking debuts and early collections, and this stuff shall be shown alongside movies, drawings, memorabilia and never-before-seen archive material from a few of these U.K.-based designers.

The swam dress, for instance, was first unveiled at Pejoski’s Newgen runway show in London for fall 2001, where it was spotted by the singer, who also wore it on the quilt for her fourth studio album Vespertine. The dress has only ever been on public display twice in Latest York before, meaning that its presence within the exhibition marks the very first time it’s to be seen by the general public within the U.K.

Nensi Dojaka Fall 2023

Nensi Dojaka, fall 2023

Courtesy of the Design Museum

In total, greater than 300 designers who graduated from the Newgen program, including Christopher Raeburn, Erdem, Kim Jones, JW Anderson, Craig Green, Mary Katrantzou, Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha, Priya Ahluwalia, Saul Nash, Grace Wales Bonner, Bianca Saunders and Nensi Dojaka, shall be referenced within the exhibition. — TIANWEI ZHANG

NEW STORES: Isabel Marant has expanded her retail fleet to 81 stores, with the opening of latest stores in Tokyo and East Hampton, Latest York.

In Tokyo, Marant teamed up with Japanese artist Yutaka Sone to create Yellow House, which showcases the brand’s ready-to-wear and accessories collections.

The Isabel Marant store in Tokyo

The Isabel Marant store in Tokyo.

Courtesy of Isabel Marant.

The point of interest of Yellow Home is a striking, large-scale artwork facade, drawing inspiration from Sone’s earlier series, “Power of Ten” and “Obsidian” — two series that involve an intense study of obsidian, a naturally occurring volcanic glass formed when lava extruded from a volcano cools rapidly.

Spanning greater than 2,152 square feet, the architecture conveys a passion for art and craftsmanship. Marant plays with the space, cutting out patches from the ceiling — as in the event that they were dress patterns — or fidgeting with vibrant coloured Sone obsidian stones, carved wood units and fluffy Berber sofas. The Terrazzo floor, custom made by Marant herself, is dotted with natural stones and glass bringing traces of nature into urban life.

“We’re thrilled to partner with Yutaka Sone for our recent shop in Tokyo Aoyama,” said Isabel Marant, founder and inventive director. This collaboration allows us to merge different perspectives and disciplines, creating something recent and unique that transcends the boundaries of our individual fields.”

The Tokyo store carries Marant’s full range of men’s and womenswear, including the brand’s dresses, relaxed tailoring, Oskan Moon bag and Balskee wedge sneakers. To have fun the opening, Marant and Sone will host an exclusive launch event on July 6.

The Hamptons store marks Marant’s first store on Long Island’s East End, opening in June at 66 Newton Lane in East Hampton, Latest York.

The 904-square-foot boutique draws inspiration from the ’70s French experimental movement. The shop, which features Marant’s essential line for girls, Isabel Marant Etoile collection and accessories, showcases quite a lot of furniture pieces, including a jewellery and sunglasses display and wood podiums designed by Rotterdam designer Jonas Lutz, concrete and ceramic planters by Parisian artist Kalou Dubus, in addition to ceramic glazed podiums developed by the Spanish studio Apparatu. — L.L.

Accessories and ready-to-wear at Isabel Marant's new East Hampton boutique.

Accessories and ready-to-wear at Isabel Marant’s store in East Hampton, Latest York.

Courtesy of Isabel Marant

GARMENT GRANTS: Latest York State is ready to award $4.5 million in grants to garment industry brands through its NY Forward program.

On Thursday, Manhattan Borough president Mark Levine announced an open call for any organization or individual looking for funding for a capital project within the Garment District NY Forward-designated area, which is defined as between thirty fourth and forty second Streets between Fifth and Ninth Avenues.

To be eligible, the projects must, amongst other things, contribute to the economic revitalization of the Garment District, by creating or retaining jobs, supporting area businesses, improving quality of life, activating public spaces, supporting affordability and achieving climate goals. The projects may also include development or rehabilitation of real estate, public spaces, signage or district branding.

Interested parties can apply at garmentdistrictnyf.com to make sure they meet the factors.

“The NY Forward funding signifies an incredible opportunity for the Garment District, emphasizing the pivotal role this district plays within the economic dynamism of Manhattan and the midtown region,” Levine said. “This financial boost sets the stage for transformational developments in an area that’s already flourishing and robust.”

Along with this open call for proposals, there shall be opportunities for Garment District corporations to learn more about NY Forward in the approaching months, including public events slated for July and September. — JEAN E. PALMIERI

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