Ever for the reason that latest Joker movie was released earlier this month, evidently almost everyone has been talking concerning the controversial film. From Jared Leto claiming he tried to stop the production to reports of Joker being on its way of top-grossing R-rated film of all time, there’s no denying it’s been a hot topic. 

Together with that, the film is certainly one to look at for the make-up transformations seen on actor Joaquin Phoenix, who stars because the chilling clown. Using MAC Cosmetics, make-up artist Nicki Ledermann created several different iterations of Phoenix’s character, including all the pieces from the enduring smeared lipstick to runny red eyebrows. “My task was to be certain not to repeat any of the past Jokers,” Ledermann explains. “He was to be the unique, realistic, not a superhero in a world of superpowers. I wanted it to be easy and the make-up to be organic. It needed to be messy and funky like Heath Ledger’s, classic like Nicholson and Romero but not campy, and touching and sad just like the inspiration of Batman: The Man Who Laughs.” 

We sat down with Ledermann to learn more about how she transformed Phoenix, the important thing products used and the stories behind different Joker make-up looks.

Are you able to walk us through different Joker looks and the inspiration?

Nicki Ledermann: The director showed me an image of a mock-up design that I used as a suggestion for the position, the fitting tone of colors, symmetries and asymmetries and the changing textures of the ultimate design. I created versions to construct the arch of the character, from Arthur Fleck’s working clown to beat-up clown, after which a spin-off of that working clown design evolving into Joker right through to the resurrection with the smeared bloody Joker smile finale. 

The working clown is classic vintage clown make-up – white face, big brown-red (reasonably than brilliant red) lips with a black outline, teal blue triangles above and below the attention and red matching eyebrows all in perfect symmetry, with a prop clown nose because the of completion. Joker, in comparison with the working clown, will not be symmetric – all the pieces from the uneven teal blue triangles, to the crooked red mouth without the black outline, to the asymmetrical eyebrows, and a painted-on red nose was sloppily but purposefully painted on to convey the insanity.

Which products did you utilize?

Nicki Ledermann: The predominant products I used for Joker and all of the clowns were the MAC Chromacakes in Cyan, Pure White, Basic Red, Landscape Green and Black Black. I mixed a little bit of the Landscape Green into the Cyan for the eyes and a touch of Black Black into the Basic Red. I also used Siân Richards 4K Longwear Creme palette and mixed the colors to match the MAC Chromacake colors. It was imperative to make use of products of superior quality for speed, flexibility and accuracy.

How long did the make-up looks take to use? 

Nicki Ledermann: It took a median of 15-20 minutes to use the make-up, partly since it was hard for Joaquin to take a seat still but in addition because I didn’t want it to look too precisely thought out. I needed to have the ability to govern the make-up. To take it off and redo it fast after every take, matching it perfectly to the prior take, or to smear it throughout the take, then fix it in between, or to make it appear to smear but actually stay put without smudging throughout the take. To attain this, I used and mixed different products to match the feel and colors exactly, freehand the position and never interrupt the speedy pace and incredible intensity of filming, so it might look fluent and authentic. The toughest a part of all was nailing continuity – while you film a movie, you do not shoot in scene order. Someday you film a scene that’s being continued days or even weeks later and you could have to match it exactly frame to border. Because all the pieces was freehand, it took loads of record-keeping and solid painting skills to match and progress it.

“Before we began filming, I worked with Joaquin for a bunch of days applying make-up and fidgeting with colors and textures until we each felt we got it and got Todd’s blessing. Joaquin was definitely my driving force and inspiration” – Nicki Ledermann

What was the collaboration process like? 

Nicki Ledermann: I actually consider that the explanation this movie is so good and successful is due to the perfect collaboration throughout between directing, acting, costume, hair, make-up, cinematography and production design. All of those departments worked extremely close and well together, all the time cross-referencing color palettes, textures, tones, vibes and mood. I used to be grateful and in awe of all of the talent and respect for one another to work together as a complete. 

What number of iterations did you do before you knew you had arrived at the ultimate perfected Joker look?

Nicki Ledermann: Before we began filming, I worked with Joaquin for a bunch of days applying make-up and fidgeting with colors and textures until we each felt we got it and got Todd’s blessing. Joaquin was definitely my driving force and inspiration. Once I earned his trust, he could give attention to his work while I got to regulate the make-up application process, and the good Kay Georgiou magically transformed Arthur Fleck’s hair into Joker’s famous green do.

What was the largest challenge of getting to remodel someone into the Joker character?

Nicki Ledermann: Not overthinking it and letting your creative instinct and skill guide you to realize the design organically. Ultimately, it’s the actor who will transform the make-up successfully onto the screen, it has to come back from inside and even the most effective make-up won’t work. Joaquin has nailed it like no-one else, he truly is among the best actors of our lifetime. I even have a lot admiration and respect for him, and I enjoyed every second of working with him.