In the event you’re a skin-care enthusiast, you have likely heard of — and experimented with — a handful of acids, be it glycolic, hyaluronic, or salicylic; nonetheless, azelaic acid is the most recent one to take the skin-care world by storm.

Don’t just take it from us, though. La Jolla, California-based, board-certified dermatologist Azadeh Shirazi, MDdescribes this buzzy acid as a “dermatologist-favorite,” a “jack-of-all-trades,”  and “probably the most underrated skin-care ingredients.” Put simply, Dr. Shirazi tells Allure that azelaic acid works by inhibiting tyrosinase (a.k.a. the enzyme involved in pigment production) and, thereby, “reduces hyperpigmentation.”

Michele Green, MDa Latest York City-based, board-certified dermatologist, echoes Dr. Shirazi’s sentiments. Each professionals also note azelaic acid’s antimicrobial and anti inflammatory properties, excellent for treating skin conditions like pimples and rosacea, because it kills breakout-causing bacteria and reduces inflammation. This versatile acid, also considered a mild exfoliant, stimulates cell turnover, as well. As such, Dr. Green tells Allure that azelaic acid “may also help reduce the looks of pimples scars.”

You furthermore mght needn’t worry an excessive amount of about adjusting your entire skin-care routine to include azelaic acid. Fortunately, each Dr. Green and Dr. Shirazi agree that azelaic acid is mostly gentle enough and protected to make use of together with other ingredients like vitamin C, AHAs, BHAs, and retinoids. Nonetheless, says Dr. Green, “If you’ve gotten prescription-strength azelaic acid, Retin-A, or other topical creams, you must seek the advice of a dermatologist.” Similarly, although azelaic acid is protected for all skin types, Dr. Green advises those with sensitive skin to begin using the ingredient “once a day, increasing the frequency to twice a day after several weeks.” And, should you experience any irritation, it is best to seek the advice of your doctor before continuing.

Finally, azelaic acid could be present in over-the-counter products in all types of strengths, from as little as one percent to as high as 12 percent and even 15 percent. Per Dr. Shirazi, the very best concentration of azelaic acid available is 20 percent, which is prescription-strength. Nonetheless, that is to not say lower concentrations aren’t effective. In line with Dr. Green, “skin-care products with a low concentration of azelaic acid could be useful with regards to unclogging pores, stopping pimples breakouts, and soothing skin inflammation.” These lower concentrations of azelaic acid are sometimes combined with other lively ingredients like AHAs and BHAs. Dr. Green explains that, in these combination formulas, “a lower concentration of azelaic acid may help prevent skin irritation.”