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26 May

The Smell Test: Diptyque Florabellio

While one judge looked as if it would appreciate the complex nature of the scent and one other enjoyed “the fun ride,” others on the panel couldn’t address what they saw as a jarring combination.

 

“Clever, complex, compact, oddly inscrutable fresh-metallic-milky accord. Very nice work.”
Rating: 7

“The fragrance is a chameleon on me — each time I wear it I smell something completely different. An elusive and puzzling fragrance that leaves me unsatisfied.”
Rating: 3

“Fizzy lemonade-like opening, vivid accord with a curious crunchy green note, soft finish. The ending might have been more exciting, but high marks for the fun ride.”
Rating: 7

“It is a very unusual and quite strange perfume. I get some notes that smell as if the perfume has turned bad.”
Rating: 3

“Memorable, spicy top note. Fades quickly.”
Rating: 5

“Unattractive and overwhelming floral combination.
Rating: 3.5

“The entire impression is chemical, filled with too many ingredients, which makes it confusing.”
Rating: 2

“An understated green bouquet that sings softly, very soft on the skin.”
Rating: 6.6

“A pointy, harsh, green metallic garlic scent in a chemical floral structure which is unfortunately…powerful. Who can wear that?”
Rating: 2.5

 

ABOUT THE TEST AND JUDGES: It is a blind test, panelists are given vials of unidentified scent to guage impartially. Each of them gives a rating starting from 1 (forgettable) to 10 (unforgettable) and the numbers are computed right into a final grade. The judges, led by chairman Michael Edwards, also make critiques, that are unattributed to encourage candor. Probably the most promising scents are picked for judging in an effort to seek out and showcase excellence. WWD buys the products at retail, like several other consumer. The esteemed judges are: Michael Edwards, creator of “Fragrances of the World” and “Perfume Legends”; Paul Austin, chief executive officer of sensory storytelling agency Austin Advisory Group; Jean-Claude Delville, senior perfumer at Drom; Karen Dubin, founder and ceo of Sniffapalooza; Victoria Frolova, fragrance industry analyst and Bois de Jasmin editor; Christophe Laudamiel, master perfumer at DreamAir; Nathalie Pichard, owner of coaching and evaluation agency Topnotes; Chantal Roos, cocreator of Roos & Roos Co.; Luca Turin, biophysicist and perfume critic for arabia.style.com, and Kevin Verspoor, founding father of PerfumeKev LLC.

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