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20 Sep

Three Debuts in Presentations at Milan Fashion Week Spring 2024

MILAN — It’s not only runway shows. On this edition of Milan Fashion Week crammed with debuts — led by the buzzy trifecta of Sabato De Sarno at Gucci, Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford and Simone Bellotti at Bally — there are also first-timers to look at off the catwalk. 

Enriching the busy schedule of presentations, three brands are to unveil their course under latest creative directors on Thursday. These include Fiorucci launching its latest chapter under the vision of Francesca Murri; Fabiana Filippi moving into uncharted territory with its first creative director, Lucia De Vito, and Jacob Cohën unveiling its first important collection designed by American talent Matthew Adams Dolan.

Here, a preview of what to anticipate from these collections.


Energy was running high on the small office that physically embodies Fiorucci’s return to Milan. The brand founded by the late visionary designer Elio Fiorucci last summer unveiled a comprehensive plan for a relaunch that included decamping from London to return to its roots under a latest owner, latest management and the brand new creative direction of Francesca Murri.

A young team and Murri’s enthusiasm set the upbeat mood during a preview ahead of the reveal of what the designer defined “collection zero.” To ensure, the presentation on Thursday will display 15 looks, making for a teaser of the primary full-fledged range that Murri will present in November along with her first pre-collection.

Although the thought is to supply the audience only a taste of what’s to return, Murri studied the launch across all points and didn’t shrink back from tapping right into a wealthy pool of references for her seminal effort.

Cue her mood board spanning two big panels and densely plastered with Technicolor images of archival Fiorucci prints, Pop art works and many food pictures. Murri’s overarching vision hinges on the return of physical experiences, starting from restoring in-person community-building occasions to exploring the brand through all senses. Hence the plethora of fruit and candy prints with an ironic or sensual twist, starting from cherries to lollipops; daring color blocking; 3D textures, or embellishments like fringes on shirts, fun patches on lingerie and maxi-floral shapes on easy-to-wear skirts.

“Fashion needs to be a game through which you possibly can express yourself. I feel the general approach to this brand needs to be lighthearted: it was Elio’s approach to fashion, in any case. Today everyone takes himself so seriously, which is something I don’t need to do,” said Murri, who has been tasked to oversee all categories with the goal of repositioning the brand within the accessible luxury segment.

Francesca Murri

Courtesy of Fiorucci

In the gathering, the designer desired to recreate the duality between a more each day offering infused with Pop prints and pastel colours, and a nocturnal side nodding to clubbing and defined by darker shades, scarlet accents and body-hugging vinyl and Lycra fabrics.

Hailing straight from the archives, an animalier pattern with bananas designed by Andy Warhol for Fiorucci was splashed on separates or translated into jacquard, while the invitation for the Studio 54 opening party hosted by the brand’s founder was changed into a sweater with ‘80s-inspired shoulders.

“I’m obsessed by the thought of the silhouette, I feel that’s at the bottom of the success of each look,” said Murri, who underscored the importance of offering feel-good and easy-to-approach shapes. These ranged from T-shirts morphed into long frocks to couture-inspired pieces rendered in Neoprene and featuring elastic bands for higher wearability. 

As for the long-lasting Fiorucci Angels iconography, it appeared as a subtle logo here and there, almost difficult to detect. “I didn’t explore this idea a lot because I would like to guard the [Angels]. Within the previous course, there was an explosion of this imagery. Now their usage goes to be more measured,” said Murri.

But she didn’t hold back within the accessories arena, a category seen as pivotal on this latest chapter of the business. “It’s such a key element for me, I see it as a approach to Fiorucci-fy all the remainder. It’s like sugar coating,” said Murri. No wonder she developed a leather bag shaped like a marshmallow, conceived “to supply women a substitute for what they have already got of their wardrobe.” Puffy Neoprene flip-flops and a unisex ballet flat with a heart-shaped metal toe were a part of the footwear selection.

A preview of a Fiorucci look.

A preview of a Fiorucci look.

Courtesy of Fiorucci

The gathering is to be unveiled in an industrial space, which is able to clash with a setup featuring pink carpeting and maxi images of lips. A various solid of men and women will sport the gender-bending collection, in a presentation intended to exalt the person personality of talents not only through clothes but different beauty looks, too.

Murri hails from established houses, as her previous jobs included stints at Ferragamo, Versace, Giorgio Armani, Gucci alongside Alessandro Michele and Givenchy during Riccardo Tisci’s tenure.

“Working with Michele for a few years has been super essential for me, by way of creativity and understanding easy methods to construct a group, for instance,” said Murri. “From him I learned easy methods to work in a team, easy methods to involve everyone because the starting of your creative process and to take the most effective from everyone,” added the designer, who now looks to inject the identical spirit at Fiorucci.

Fabiana Filippi

An industry veteran, Lucia De Vito is to make her debut as Fabiana Filippi’s latest creative director — the primary because the label was established in 1985 in Perugia, in central Italy, by brothers Giacomo and Mario Filippi Coccetta. 

“It took eight months of meetings to get to know one another and finalize the appointment, which is comprehensible because this was a key change for them,” recalled De Vito over Teams. “They felt the necessity to have a stronger and more contemporary image, to vary the pace but while identifying the correct individual that could embrace the corporate’s values,” added the designer, who leads the firm’s ready-to-wear and ladies’s accessories collections, and in addition oversees the brand’s image.

De Vito discovered an organization she wasn’t acquainted with. “A gem, like there are numerous in Italy but we don’t even imagine, scattered in unthinkable places. I used to be fascinated by the structure and know-how,” said the designer, as she praised Fabiana Filippi’s Made-in-Italy production, signature knitwear expertise and its “human touch.”

Lucia De Vito

Lucia De Vito

Courtesy of Fabiana Filippi

To impress De Vito was not a straightforward feat, as her résumé is crammed with marquee industry brands. She began her profession at the tip of the ‘90s at Alberta Ferretti, before joining Jil Sander, an organization that has hugely impacted her own creative vision marked by the masculine-feminine duality, rigorous line and overall understated and sober elegance. Later stints at Valentino, Nina Ricci and Chloé in Paris, Missoni and, most recently, Emilio Pucci, further strengthened her skills and perfected her aesthetic.

For her seminal collection at Fabiana Filippi, De Vito wanted to specific the bond between the brand and its roots. Her research caused her to dive into medieval references, which she discussed with an art gallerist friend that suggested she meet with Milan-based artist Benni Bosetto. 

The 2 collaborated on some prints that may appear in the gathering, in addition to on macramé knits and a series of bijou. Elsewhere, De Vito’s rigor and sobriety will shine through via the precise tailoring in jackets, duster coats and skirts. The lab coat can be a recurrent element, in a nod to the pragmatism of constructing things, while fabrications will range from poplin and leather to denim and lace embellishments. Soft hues, like yellow and apricot, will add a fragile touch of color in a lineup dominated by white, black and grey shades.

A preview of the Fabiana Filippi spring 2024 collection.

Courtesy of Fabiana Filippi

To be unveiled on Thursday, the gathering can be presented with a little bit help from a performance by choreographer Yoann Bourgeois and soundtrack by pianist and composer Hania Rani. 

“There are such a lot of brands showing during Milan Fashion Week, we desired to do something different than a runway show, mixing art, culture and dance to fashion,” said De Vito, who teased that the set will center on a rotating platform serving as a stage for each models and dancers.

Asked about her wishes and expectations for this debut, De Vito said she would love to see women “reassured by what they see and encouraged to wear the pieces,” which can be geared toward delivering a mixture of modernity and spontaneity. 

“I realize it’s obsolete to talk about elegance, but I at all times attempt to,” said the designer with a smile. “I don’t need to revolutionize the Fabiana Filippi woman, just evolve her image.”

Jacob Cohën by Matthew Adams Dolan

Speak about a dynamic duo. When earlier this 12 months Matthew Adams Dolan was tapped to helm womenswear at Italian premium denim brand Jacob Cohën, operating under the artistic direction of Jennifer Tommasi Bardelle, the announcement didn’t come as an entire surprise.

The 2 of them had already collaborated on a capsule range last 12 months, but decided to strengthen their tie-up as Tommasi Bardelle — whose husband Nicola Bardelle relaunched the brand before dying in an accident in 2012 — said she saw “the creative flair that has at all times characterised Nicola’s work” within the American designer.

“We used the collaboration to start with to know one another…after I met him and saw how he was working and the mood and attitude he was putting in the gathering, I said: ‘I got it. He’s my man.’ But you possibly can’t be drastic in life. So we did it step-by-step, which is s a leitmotiv in my life after my husband’s death,” said Tommasi Bardelle. 

Jacob Cohën's artistic director Jennifer Tommasi Bardelle with the designer Matthew Adams Dolan

Jennifer Tommasi Bardelle and Matthew Adams Dolan

Courtesy of Jacob Cohën

Adams Dolan recognized there’s “quite a bit more intention” in approaching the creative process on this latest role. “The brand has such a robust menswear offering and I feel the entire purpose of the collaboration in the primary place and dealing now on the important collection has been to form of give a bit more body and substance to the womenswear and have a full line that may support the important focus, which is the jeans,” said the designer.

Tommasi Bardelle’s aim is to revive the ladies’s business to match the time her husband was leading the corporate, subsequently to account for 30 percent of total sales in comparison with the present 18 percent.

“I expect at the very least that. I’m aware enough to not expect it immediately. But I can see the potential that a brand like ours can have, because I see it mixed with the highest luxury labels, and since we’re 100% made in Italy. And because of Matthew, we’ve got this contemporary and fashion [side],” said Tommasi Bardelle. 

Adams Dolan stressed the importance of not alienating the present clientele by easing it into the brand new direction with uncomplicated silhouettes and each day staples. For spring 2024, the designer focused also on the thought of lightness through textures, “which in a denim company shouldn’t be the simplest thing to do, because this shouldn’t be probably the most summer-friendly fabric,” he noted. 

To enrich soft-handed denim, the designer crafted separates from ultralight cotton, while overall he juxtaposed utilitarian shapes with more feminine touches. He styled cargo pants worn with safari jackets to create a jumpsuit-reminiscent look, or created one-shoulder dresses that recalled denim shirts wrapped across the body.

“There’s quite an enormous scale by way of wearability: there are things which can be more occasional and others more for every single day. It really form of runs the gamut of all of those elements,” said Adams Dolan, who also introduced zingy colours, checkered patterns and white looks to flank the denim pieces. 

Yet denim can be predominant on the presentation that may mark the brand’s debut within the Milan Fashion Week schedule, as 14 total looks considered most representative of the designer’s work are expected to get the highlight.

A preview of the Jacob Cohën by Matthew Adams Dolan spring 2024 collection.

A preview of the Jacob Cohën by Matthew Adams Dolan spring 2024 collection.

Courtesy of Jacob Cohën

Denim has been frequently employed by Adams Dolan also for his namesake brand, which he launched with a spring 2016 collection after graduating from the MFA Fashion Design and Society Program at Parsons School of Design in Latest York.

Born in Danvers, Massachusetts, Adams Dolan studied in Australia, Japan and Switzerland before moving to Latest York. The designer has also collaborated with Rihanna, who enlisted him to seek the advice of on her Fenty for Puma collections after which the launch of her Fenty brand with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in 2019. In 2018, he was chosen as one in every of the nine finalists for the LVMH Prize.

“I’ve been very fortunate to have the option to learn easy methods to work as a component of a team because the starting of my profession. It’s a vital asset to have: to have the option to have an excellent relationship with the technical teams and make probably the most out of that,” said the designer. “And having my very own brand, I’m at all times very conscious about things like ensuring that you just’re on top of costs.” 

“I’m the owner, and he looks more after costs than I do. In that way, he’s really incredible, he’s like an engineer,” concluded Tommasi Bardelle.

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