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27 Jun

Ulla Johnson Opens Organic, Modern Kelly Wearstler-designed Flagship in L.A.

Ulla Johnson Opens Organic, Modern Kelly Wearstler-designed Flagship in L.A.

Two years within the making, Ulla Johnson’s flagship in Los Angeles, designed by interior design star Kelly Wearstler, is anticipated to open in the approaching days. And it’s definitely worth the wait.

“People need a reason to indicate up at retail,” said Johnson of the three,000-square-foot organic, modern, artisan furniture-filled store. With a secret garden, light-filled solarium and 16-foot indoor Brachychiton tree, it’s as transporting because the Recent York designer’s exotic haute handmade runway collections.

“After I first began taking a look at spaces, I stayed at The Proper hotel in Santa Monica. And I just thought the design was quite incredible and that we were very like-minded,” Johnson said of Wearstler and her work for the posh hospitality group. “I recognized so most of the objects in her collections, there was a variety of incredible sourcing, and that’s something I do also each with ready-to-wear and in my homes — gathering after which making things feel different from their original context by putting them in a latest environment.”

The brand new Ulla Johnson store in Los Angeles.

Maggie Shannon/WWD

Johnson desired to work with someone from L.A. “I’m not very interested as we roll out retail to have this boilerplate design that we then just slot into various environments,” she said. “Kelly is clearly incredibly steeped in not only the vibe of L.A. but in addition the local craftspeople. She also has a significant affinity for handmade things, and for locating artisans for collaborative work, so after we met it just felt like there was a shared language.”

The shop, the brand’s third after Recent York’s SoHo and Amagansett, is situated in the previous Stella McCartney space on Beverly Boulevard near Robertson, in West Hollywood’s Design District.

“I even have an affinity for interiors, and this whole space has been an exercise in residential design,” said Johnson, who has a small home collaboration launching soon in London with an eye fixed toward expanding into the category sometime in the longer term. (The designer, who released a limited-edition Erewhon “Super Bloom” smoothie to have a good time the shop opening, also has beauty on the horizon, hinting at a “big announcement.”)

The shop entrance is on the side of the constructing, allowing the front to make a clean first impression for passersby with its weeping mortar brick finish, which Johnson describes as “organic and peculiar and drippy.”

“There’s a secret garden within the back, which does have parking, but in addition beautiful trees and a variety of plantings. We desired to create this oasis, which a variety of people have of their homes in L.A., but that is basically open to the general public. The sense of welcoming the skin in and having an actual connection to the neighborhood in addition to the community was super essential.”

The new Ulla Johnson store in Los Angeles, California.

The brand new Ulla Johnson store in Los Angeles.

Maggie Shannon/WWD

(Johnson and landscape architect Miranda Brooks originally had plans to create a much bigger garden where the present parking zone still stands, however the City of West Hollywood scuttled the thought.)

Inside, the airy two-story space has a double-height feeling, with the tree planted in the middle.

“I went with my daughter over a yr ago to this nursery in Malibu and we had this whole epic escapade,” Johnson said of finding the special tree.

There’s a Burl wood room, “which is this idea of a jewel box exploded,” she explained of the whirling, textured area showcasing accessories and objets.

And there’s a glass solarium within the back where the fitting rooms are. “The thought is to let within the golden California light and mix the indoor and outdoor. The entire doors might be opened and in my mind, we would like to have a variety of events back there and have this seamless transition from the inside to the outside.”

On the second floor is a generous VIP fitting room, which will probably be the brand’s home for press events and celebrity dressing.

“The space embraces the natural world, timeless design from the ’70s and ’80s, and modern commissions from a few of our favourite artists,” Wearstler said.

Among the many incredible pieces are a sculptural resin bootcut leg table by Ross Hansen, colourful jigsaw tables by Canadian artist Jeff Martin, a Moisart chair by French artist Christian Astuguevieille and a custom clay stoneware chandelier by L.A.-based French ceramicist Olivia Cognet.

Contemporary works are complemented by vintage pieces, akin to a pair of Carlo Scarpa Nineteen Seventies Cornaro wood-framed armchairs, Ingo Maurer’s fan-like Uchiwa wall lights, and a high-backed carved wood hall chair by Urano Palma. The latter inspired the acquisition of a light-weight fixture by contemporary designer Minjae Kim in fiberglass, bamboo and Douglas fir. A way of the handmade extends to the handwoven textiles used as upholstery throughout.

“This is actually our flagship store, it’s greater than twice the footprint of our others,” said Johnson, who has a private history with the town.

Although the designer grew up in Recent York, after she had her first child in 2007, she and her husband moved to L.A. for a yr and a half.

“I moved to Silver Lake and I desired to be any person who rode my bike all over the place. But I lived on a street that was at a 90-degree incline,” she said of the way it turned out. “l was also coming back to Recent York every week with an infant to maintain my business here…but in the long run, I did fall in love with L.A. and definitely put some roots down. I feel very connected to L.A., not to say it’s an enormous marketplace for us.”

The new Ulla Johnson store in Los Angeles, California.

The brand new Ulla Johnson store in Los Angeles.

Maggie Shannon/WWD

L.A., with its status for bohemian casual dressing, also rubbed off on Johnson. “Plenty of times people do ask me if I’m from L.A. due to that sense of effortless elegance and playfulness which are essential to me,” she said. “But I believe the stereotype of Recent Yorkers has also modified. It was once all Recent Yorkers only wore black and everybody is super stern. I’ve made it my life’s work to prove we’re very fun and do like color.”

Johnson’s love of the handmade is in her DNA. Her globetrotting parents were each archaeologists.

“Our house had myriad collections of fibers and pottery and located objects. And every part had a story. My mother was really not any person who ever bought anything off the shelf. She is Serbian and picked up a variety of Serbian ethnic costumes.…We lived in Germany, and he or she brought back 7,000 handblown glass ornaments for the Christmas tree. All the pieces had a way of place and time and and who the maker was.”

That sense passed on to Johnson. “I’m a collector and gatherer in my heart..I used to be just in South America and discovered these incredible horsehair weavers making these little sculptures that we’re interested by using for runway. I just get so wildly excited and inspired seeing that one-of-a-kind touch that happens only when something’s made by hand. It gives me an ideal delight, not to say continuing to expand the network of humans we work with,” she said of the brand’s partnerships with artisans in India, Peru and Uruguay.

Having her own stores will let her usher in more experimental handmade products that usually are not necessarily scalable, and story tell around them.

“It’s very difficult for ladies especially who’re in a caregiving role with children to have access to meaningful work, especially in the event that they’re in smaller communities. So I hope that we’ve made a variety of measurable difference,” Johnson said.

Ulla Johnson RTW Fall 2023

Ulla Johnson RTW Fall 2023

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

For her burgeoning denim category, she turned to L.A. for manufacturing. “The denim factory that we work with is the most effective on the earth. Each of those pairs of jeans takes like 30 hours of handwork to get the precise sort of abrading. They usually are very much on the forefront of sustainability which inside the denim space is vital because there may be a lot toxicity that has been a part of that industry.”

Recently, Johnson signed her first license, for shoes, with an Italian manufacturer invested in its own artisanal traditions. “Visiting this factory outside of Venice was mind blowing because everybody working there was of their 20s. It wasn’t prefer it was a dying art. It’s something the Italian government has invested in.”

In ready-to-wear, she’s been seeing success courting the ultra-luxury customer, with pieces at the upper end for her, within the $2,000 range. “It’s very exciting to see that now we have that appetite…but at the identical time, we’re not serious about forsaking the lady who has been with us for 25 years, nor are we serious about having a diffusion range. So having the ability to have this breadth and depth inside the brand under the identical name may be very exciting.”

Ulla Johnson RTW Fall 2023

Ulla Johnson RTW Fall 2023

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

She’s seeing growth in tailoring and eveningwear too. “We’ve been working more with stylists, and I believe it’s going to be fun to play between those two spaces in L.A. where you might have each hyper-casual and hyper-occasion.”

The L.A. store is a milestone for the brand, which is able to have a good time its 25 anniversary in 2024.

“This took a bit longer than I might need wanted, but I believe it’s going to be something impressive inside the L.A. retail landscape. And we’re actually serious about making our mark not only as a ready-to-wear brand, but truly a way of life brand that has relevancy on the West Coast, but in addition internationally. We’re really setting ourselves up from a design viewpoint as well. This isn’t an area that a variety of American brands invest heavily in, so I believe it’s going to open people’s eyes to a complete different a part of who we’re as a brand.”

Johnson is the only real owner of her brand, which has 80 employees and which industry insiders estimate is a $100 million business.

“Presently, there is no such thing as a desire to herald any outside investment. The corporate is profitable and in a position to make significant investments in a sustainable growth strategy,” said chief executive officer Donata Minelli Yirmiyahu.

“We’re experiencing double-digit growth; it has definitely been more conservative growth going into 2023. But overall, our business is trending a 50/50 split between wholesale and direct-to-consumer, which is actually exciting for us. We still tremendously value our wholesale partners, their partnerships are really about brand marketing, in addition to brand trajectory,” she said, adding that more Ulla Johnson shops-in-shop will probably be opening in Neiman Marcus, and the one in Bergdorf Goodman will probably be expanding to 500 square feet.

She’s also seeing growth in wholesale internationally, with the recent opening of a pop-up in Le Bon Marche in Paris. International business is 30 percent of sales and growing.

The recent launch of PreLoved, a peer-to-peer resale component on the Ulla Johnson website, has been a hit, with items selling for 40 to 50 percent of their original price, Yirmiyahu said. “Ulla has at all times spoken about future heirlooms, it’s been a tagline of the corporate for a few years, and it’s exciting to see the client feels the identical way in regards to the product.”

The brand is seeking to open more stores, with Miami in its sights. However it’s in no rush.

“We view our retail strategy far more as flagship opportunities in each size and locations. So the choices that we’re making usually are not only based on market opportunity, but are they locations that supply extensive global visibility, in addition to feel instinctive to Ulla,” Yirmiyahu said. “It’s really about finding these unique experiences.”

Ulla Johnson

Ulla Johnson

Maggie Shannon/WWD

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