VTMNTS | Sping Summer 2023 | Fashion Show

VTMNTS had its IRL debut in Paris back in March. Models from all points on the gender spectrum stormed the runway in an emptied out Monoprix at speed, some with makeup meant to appear like bruises and cuts. The vibe was practically pugilistic. Now, Guram Gvasalia and team are back for one more round.

This time it’s a digital presentation. The models are still moving at quite a clip, however the French department store has been replaced by a latest Swiss construction whose vaulted ceiling looks almost like a cathedral. The selection of venue seemed strategic. “We’re in a church of the longer term, where you belong just by being your true self,” Gvasalia said. “The major message of the gathering is gender equality. It’s about knowing who you might be, standing to your beliefs.”

Meaning that within the runway video all genders wear jackets and shirts cropped below the chest, exposing muscled midriffs, and denim hotpants are equal opportunity too. “Crop out the bullshit,” Gvasalia said. He identified that there have been just two abbreviated puffer jackets on the autumn runway, but they were popular enough with buyers—and with the models showing up for this season’s casting—that he decided that the VTMNTS team was on to something and made them an even bigger a part of the brand new offering.

One other motif was the doubling of clothes—two cropped bombers, two sleeveless tailored jackets with strong padded shoulders, a doubled waistband here, logo briefs peeking out from the highest of one other waistband there. Gvasalia likes the exaggerated proportions of those layers and the keenness that those proportions imply. Only one VTMNTS trench, top coat, or button-down isn’t enough, higher buy two.

He reports that the runway show in March was successful with buyers, with orders from greater than 100 stores. “When people haven’t any expectations, and when it’s good, the response is overwhelming.” That collection had a pair of silver looks, a theme which he expanded on here, cutting wardrobe staples like jeans and snap-front shirts and statement pieces including hotpants and thigh-grazing cuissards in reflective silver leather. “It’s insane top quality, very rare,” Gvasalia said.

Some color-blocked sweats and a striped track suit round out the gathering. The brand new gen that Gvasalia wants to decorate has made soft-wear like that a part of the twenty first century uniform, it’s all but unavoidable. Nevertheless it’s the strapping tailoring and Gvasalia’s eye for difference that can construct the VTMNTS congregation.

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