Just saying the words “witch hazel” stings just a little bit. “Historically, in its purest form, witch hazel is used as an astringent to contract the skin’s tissues to provide the looks of smaller pores and draw oil [from the skin],” says dermatologist Michelle Henry, MDa clinical instructor of dermatology on the Weill Medical College of Cornell University in Recent York City. That astringent effect sometimes worked just a little too well, as anyone who grew up within the ‘90s or early aughts might remember from splashing their skin red and flaky back within the day. “Its astringent effect implies that it really works by drawing water out of the skin,” says Perry Romanowski, a cosmetic chemist and co-host of the Beauty Brains podcast. “For some those who can feel good, but for others it could [be too much].”

Over the past few months though we’ve seen latest launches give the standard ingredient a newfound level of tolerance across all skin types — and with it a fresh boost in popularity. For an unassuming flowering shrub, witch hazel has definitely blossomed into a flexible skincare ingredient.

Meet the Experts:

• Michelle Henry, MD, a clinical instructor of dermatology on the Weill Medical College of Cornell University in Recent York City
• Julie Russak, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Recent York City
• Perry Romanowski, a cosmetic chemist and co-host of the Beauty Brains podcast
• Kavita Mariwalla, MDa board-certified dermatologist based in West Islip, NY and brand ambassador for Dickinson’s

What Is Witch Hazel?

The astringent ingredient was first introduced in skin-care products way back within the 1800s, but was used medicinally in Native American cultures long before that. Derived from the winter-blooming North American Hamamelis virginiana plant, the witch hazel utilized in skincare is extracted from soaking and steeping or steam distilling the leaves, stem, and bark of the plant to create a transparent, fragrant liquid that today is mostly made into toners for those with oily or acne-prone skin.

How Is Witch Hazel Utilized in Skin Care?

Until recently, a witch-hazel product was principally just straight-up witch hazel. There was no mild, medium, or hot option should you will. But latest formulations are way more sophisticated — and customizable.

“I  wish to tell those who while witch hazel could also be an ingredient you’re used to hearing your grandmother use, with latest formulations and uses, it is certainly a product for this generation,” says Kavita MariwallaMD, a dermatologist based in West Islip, NY and brand ambassador for Dickinson’s. “Toners with actives added [to them] complement skin-care routines to create problem-based solutions.” And so they will be an awesome addition to your skin-care lineup as you become old. “There may be a niche in skin look after mature skin,” Dr. Mariwalla explains. “That is where I believe witch hazel really shines. A lot of what adult women have at our disposal is restricted to retinol and ‘anti-aging’ formulas — it’s nice to have an option that’s skin-soothing and redness-reducing.”