In September, IB Kamara released his first collection as art and image director of Off-White™. The gathering looked to what once was, celebrating and reflecting on late founder Virgil Abloh’s brand codes and vision. Now, for AW23 Kamara is trying to the long run and turning the page as he ushers in a recent era for the brand. Presented on Thursday morning in Paris, the Lunar Delivery show was a futuristic offering of pieces inspired by Kamara’s background. “There could only ever be one Virgil. He was always innovating and pondering ahead and he left us a brand that may reinvent itself, grow and stand the test of time,” Kamara explained. “This collection marks the start of a recent path, inspired by world-building. It envisions something yet to exist.”

Ticket lost within the post? Below we break down every part it’s worthwhile to know in regards to the AW23 show.

With Paris being the last stop a whirlwind fashion month, it’s easy to feel that by the tip of it you’re rotating on a special planet – and for those in attendance on the Off-White™ show, they quite literally were. With the cavernous space crammed with advantageous red sand and jutting rocks, the otherworldly event transported guests to the surface of Mars. The star of the show, nonetheless, was a metallic, reflective orb which sat in the course of all of it – offering a 360 mirrored view of the attendees and the gathering as models stomped down the catwalk. Meanwhile, the team showing guests to their seats wore t-shirts plastered with “I would like space” slogans, which guests were also gifted on each seat – a mood, a moment, etc.

Lately, fashion week has turn into something of a celeb playground, and as one of the anticipated shows on the AW23 Paris schedule, Off-White™ was obviously no exception as stars from all arms of the creative industries landed on the show. Attendees included the likes of Raye, Jodie-Turner Smith, Tessa Thompson, Eve, Ciara, and Noah Beck. Elsewhere, the same old fashion crowd was in attendance, with Anna Wintour sitting on the sidelines and Dazed’s Jefferson Hack showing as much as cheer on Kamara and his team.

Models weaved across the mysterious orb, their feet kicking up a sheet of sand in eyelet-strewn kilts, overstuffed bombers, and reflective space suits. Full-body sheaths, wipe-clean jackets, and puffers were printed in a constellation of astronomical etchings, while blazers and stretch-knit dresses bore trompe l’oeil harnesses. Pale lilac suits looked as if they’d been trampled with the greased-up wheels of an area rover while tracksuits were festooned in heavyset jewels and body-mapped beads, with a few alienoid characters walking with their heads covered in barbed grommets.

Last month Isamaya Ffrench was announced as Off-White™’s newest addition, joining IB Kamara and his team because the label’s beauty curator. Unnecessary to say, her first show with the brand didn’t disappoint. Fitting into the general futuristic vibe of the show and collection, Ffrench’s standout look featured multiple miniature silver wheels glued throughout a model’s face creating an modern optical illusion. Other looks included metallic sci-fi-inspired silver eye make-up and bleached brows. The discs were also featured in a series of looks by hairstylist Jawara.

No stranger to breaking down barriers, Precious Lee walked the show as Off-White™’s first-ever runway curve model, wearing a high-neck metallic trippy dress with utilitarian strap detailing. While fashion continues to take a couple of steps forward and lots of steps back on the subject of size diversity, Lee continues to prove that curve models not only deserve but should be on the runway.

For her first – and possibly only? – runway appearance this season, supermodel Naomi Campbell took a stroll through the set wearing a tight-fitted black dress detailed on the neckline with an enormous black ring. She later returned at the tip of the show, walking across the dome with IB Kamara in one other two-piece black ensemble as he did his victory lap. The model has long been a champion of his work, and was close friends with Abloh, so the full-circle moment was a poignant one. The AW23 model line-up was forged by Dazed casting director Mischa Notcutt and likewise featured runway veterans Adut Akech, Anok Yai, and Soo Joo Park, in addition to the legendary Omahyra Mota.