This story first appeared within the May/June 2022 issue of ESSENCE.

Within the last decade, millennials’ digital self-care movement combined with a widespread embrace of social media to create a multifaceted interest in how we appeared to others online. Out of this, wellness gurus emerged, some certified, others winging it as they advocated compassion for our physical selves. It became common to see tutorials for hair and skincare not only from celebrities, but additionally from our homegirls. Nonetheless, together with the proliferation of wellness content got here a deluge of misinformation in regards to the way we take care of ourselves, particularly for our skin. 

Lately, and particularly for the reason that onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, this has only gotten worse.

“I’ve seen people burn themselves, scar themselves and leave spots of hyperpigmentation that they now should treat over the subsequent months,” says dermatologist Anthony Rossi, M.D. “These do-it-yourself facial masks, where they’re telling you to mix lemon juice with other things, can really do more damage than good.”

Zoom/social media dysmorphia—the hyper awareness of how we appear on camera—has also reached a critical point, Rossi notes. It’s change into some extent of concern within the dermatology field, as an increasing variety of clients approach professionals with unrealistic expectations of how their skin should look. The graceful, pore-free look isn’t any longer just for glossy ad campaigns. People wish to look that way in real life, all the time. 

“We try to handle this concept of Zoom dysmorphia, in fact, because we’re using televideo on a regular basis now,” Rossi says. He adds that photo-editing filters are also influencing the best way people think their skin should look. But social media is a breeding ground for poor methodology when it comes to protecting your skin, particularly in the event you are Black or an individual of color. 

“Misinformation can spread like wildfire, because lots of us have been taught the identical skincare myths growing up,” says Sean Garrette, a Latest York–based aesthetician. “So when someone repeats these myths on social media, they gain traction—because people have already heard the identical thing and sort of comply with it.” The circulation of false notions—resembling Black people not needing sunscreen because melanin offers natural protection—leads to skin issues that require skilled care.

“There may be a profit to getting an expert to really assess your skin, preferably without makeup.”

For those who’re trying to learn more about your skin type or to try a recent product or process, it’s essential to work with an aesthetician and a dermatologist. This could provide help to avoid damaging your skin and point you in the precise direction so far as products are concerned. Even though it’s often seen as cosmetic, consulting a dermatologist for conditions like psoriasis or pimples is taken into account a medical need and should be covered by insurance. 

“There may be a profit to getting an expert to really assess your skin, preferably without makeup,” says celebrity aesthetician Renée Rouleau. “Having an expert analyze your skin allows the specialist to cater to your unique needs—with in-office, skilled treatments and product recommendations for your house skincare routine.”

Below, experts told us about 4 social media skin trends and gave details on what’s helpful versus harmful.

At-Home Microneedling 

Used to enhance the looks of the skin, microneedling should never be done by a non-professional, cautions Rouleau. “I don’t recommend doing this at home, as there’s a risk for overuse and damage to the skin,” she says. Moreover, if the tools aren’t sterile, you open yourself as much as bacterial staph infections; and the puncturing can even cause you to bleed. 

Garrette agrees that microneedling should only be done in a clean space, by someone with the right certification; otherwise, he says, “things can go really, really unsuitable.” 

Article continues after video.

“It’s hit and miss at home, since you don’t really know evaluate the recommendation you’re getting.

Shaving the Face 

Face-shaving has mixed reviews from our professionals, but it surely really boils right down to your pre- and after-care. For some people, Garrette recommends heading to an aesthetician, since blades used at home could be dull, causing the shave to be uneven or promoting pimples in the event you go over one spot too often. If you need to shave yourself, you’ll want to wash your face thoroughly beforehand. For the actual shaving, use a blade that has been used fewer than five times; and “use upward strokes in the other way of how the hair grows,” says Rouleau, who recommends ending off with a moisturizer.

Scrubs 

Using facial scrubs brings a convincing “no” from our experts. They indicate that individuals who attempt to cut costs by incorporating household ingredients like sugar into their very own scrubs can wind up cutting their face with sharp granules. Over-exfoliation can even disturb the deeper layers of skin. “Once we disrupt that first barrier of skin, it starts an inflammatory cascade of cells that get recruited,” Rossi says. “So whenever you over-exfoliate, you’re bringing in all these inflammatory cells, and your skin’s going to look less healthy than whenever you started off.”

DIY Face Masks 

Garrette decries the “For those who can eat it, it’s good in your skin, too” ethos that informs dangerous decision-making regarding masks. He also says that apprehension about chemicals deters people from using more rigorously tested and effective masks an authority might suggest. “I feel we’d like higher product development and consistent cosmetic formulations,” he says. “It’s hit and miss at home, since you don’t really know evaluate the recommendation you’re getting. An avocado mask, for instance, is actually doing nothing in your skin.