Black celebrity haircare brands have been criticised for being underperforming and overpriced. But where is that this scepticism coming from and why don’t hair brands owned by white celebrities receive the same backlash?
Beyoncé is currently on a world tour promoting her latest album, Renaissance – and yet she’s still managed to search out time to tease a possible haircare line, posting a half-cryptic gallery on Instagram. Unsurprisingly, social media was immediately abuzz with comments from the Beehive. One person posted a sequence of photos and videos on Twitter that showcased Queen B’s natural hair in numerous styles, together with the words: “Beyoncé’s natural hair the past several years. Hair Care line bout to eat. She is the wig snatcher.” In light of the news that broke earlier this yr that her collaborative clothing line with Adidas is coming to an end on account of poor sales, several commented that a haircare line feels more on-brand for the star.
But others aren’t as convinced. Camille Janae is a self-described “Curly Hair and Loc Educator” from California; she’s a licensed cosmetologist and owns a hair salon. She was quickly branded a “hater” on the platform for her thoughts on Beyoncé’s supposed recent enterprise. “I hope collectively we aren’t quick to purchase products from an entertainer with no expertise on hair, but hesitant to pay for advice from licensed professionals. But that’s likely wishful considering,” she tweeted. The hair specialist went on to focus on how other celebrity haircare lines, in her opinion, overpromise and underperform. “Folks are still using P*ttern and it’s not great for hair health,” she wrote in reference to actress Tracee Ellis Ross’ haircare range for individuals with 3B-4C curl types. “Product efficacy shouldn’t be a priority. It’s more about what’s marketable,” was her resounding thought concerning the worthiness of celebrity-owned Black haircare brands.
Over time, various Black celebrity women have launched haircare lines, often citing personal experience as a reason to push for greater inclusivity throughout the hair industry. Actress Issa Rae said she’d often turn up on set just for white stylists to easily spray her hair with water or run their fingers through it, making her hair look worse than when she arrived. She launched the vegan haircare line Sienna Naturals along side Hannah Diop in 2021 with hopes of “empowering anyone with textured hair to specific and embrace their beauty with a recent sort of haircare regimen”. Tracee Ellis Ross has said that she often heard “I do know your hair’s difficult” on jobs, so desired to create a spread that inspired women to feel proud and cozy with their natural hair. Like their peers, TPH by Taraji P Henson and Gabrielle Union’s Flawless haircare lines also offer scalp and hair products designed to uplift the natural hair community.
Despite their hands-on experience with their very own hair and certain exposure to top-level hair experts given their celebrity status, some argue that these women aren’t qualified to release haircare brands. Although many popular YouTubers often leave rave reviews for these lines, a number have posted scathing product-testing videos claiming that they simply don’t live as much as the hype. SheRea DelSol tried a collection of Pattern products and was left upset, saying that her hair felt “coated” fairly than moisturised. “The medium conditioner was trash, although I’d never let you know to not support a Black-owned business,” she said. The blogger also declined to buy any oils from the range to trial on account of the worth point: “It’s like $25 for 3 ounces of oil and I’ve been natural for too long to purchase into that.”
This type of criticism is commonly leveraged at Black women celebrities in a way that white women celebrities rarely, if ever, experience. From LolaVie by Jennifer Aniston to Hayley Williams’ Good Dye Young, many have launched haircare brands which have quickly develop into highly coveted. “I can’t speak for people as an entire, but it surely seems we’re lots harsher on ourselves than other groups are,” says award-winning hair artist Charlotte Mensah. “Sometimes, we query peoples’ confidence to do things, which shouldn’t be a healthy position to take. Possibly it begs the query: are we focused on the fitting things?”
Bleach London hair specialist Alisha Dobson agrees, believing the criticism Black celebrities experience is extreme. “I feel celebrity-made or endorsed products give people someone to carry accountable, so we see this backlash more visibly,” she says. Dobson explains that it’s difficult to cater to a community with diverse requirements. “The Black hair market is complex; there are a large number of various wants and wishes. Anyone creating products [for this demographic] will actually need to do the work.”
Mensah sees the influx of celebrity brands as a chance to higher the haircare industry. “I feel celebrities ought to be collaborating with Black hair stylists to create the products, that way the products will probably be expert-led they usually’re creating jobs for disadvantaged people of their communities,” she says. “Beyoncé’s constructing massive empires, that’s why I hope she’s [working] with other Black creatives. Success is achieved once we lift one another up.”
But do Black-owned haircare labels that don’t have the marketing advantages of superstardom on their side feel the identical way? “An industry that didn’t cater to us for years meant that Black women relied on creating our own solutions,” says Ibi Meier-Oruitemeka, founding father of The Afro Hair & Skin Co. “When celebrity brands launch off the back of pre-existing communities, the existence of smaller brands becomes much more precarious.” Meier-Oruitemeka thinks it will be “inconceivable” for a small-scale independent brand akin to hers to compete with a celeb brand – but she also doesn’t feel the necessity to.
“This industry is difficult, much more so for Black-owned brands that typically experience less access to external funding,” she explains. Because it stands, Black entrepreneurs have at all times encountered disparity in relation to enterprise capital spending: typically, they receive less than two per cent of overall dollars every year within the US. Black businesses saw a forty five per cent drop in funding in 2022. Despite the state of affairs across the pond, Meier-Oruitemeka is optimistic: “The previous couple of years have taught me that whenever you create something authentic, people will come.”
With great cultural power comes great responsibility, so it’s no surprise that Beyoncé’s subtle announcement has incited a fevered debate. While some argue that having a licensed cosmetician as a mother makes her well-equipped to launch her own haircare line, others will proceed to query the singer’s credibility. Remember, Beyoncé was once subject to criticism over the condition of her daughter Blue Ivy’s hair, proving that the naysayers have at all times been unduly vocal. Although the haircare products produced by Black celebrities have been met with mixed opinions, the overarching sentiment shared inside and outdoors the hair industry stays the identical: it’s necessary to support Black-owned brands. On condition that the worldwide Black haircare industry is projected to be value $6.9 billion by 2026, there’s seemingly enough room for everybody. In that case, if and when Queen B’s line drops, we’ll likely all be hair-flipping and singing “It should cost a billion to look this good.
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