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1 Jun

Dior’s Bloomsbury Exhibit, MAC Launches Day of Giving, Chanel

A WOOLF IN CHIC CLOTHING: Kim Jones and Dior aren’t finished celebrating the Bloomsbury Group.

The French fashion home is supporting “Bring No Clothes: Bloomsbury and Fashion,” billed as the primary major exhibition to explore the style impact of the famous cultural collective, whose ringleaders Virginia Woolf, Duncan Grant, E.M. Forster, Vanessa Bell, John Maynard Keynes and Lady Ottoline Morrell helped set the template for contemporary dressing.

The sponsorship follows Jones’ spring 2023 men’s collection for Dior, which was done in partnership with the Charleston Trust and featured prints drawn from Grant’s artworks and furniture designs.

Soprano Constance Hauman performs in “Orlando” wearing Comme des Garçons.

Michael Poehn

Slated to run from Sept. 13 to Jan. 7, 2024, in a latest gallery space at Charleston, the house and studio of Bell and Grant in Lewes, England, “Bring No Clothes” is to feature looks by Dior, Fendi, Comme des Garçons, Christopher Bailey-era Burberry, Erdem and S.S. Daley together with necklaces and bags worn by Woolf and Bell.

In tandem, Particular Books, an imprint of Penguin, will publish “Bring No Clothes: Bloomsbury and the Philosophy of Fashion,” penned by journalist Charlie Porter, the exhibition curator.

He said the artists, writers and thinkers related to Bloomsbury “engaged with fashion in dynamic ways, from philosophical considering to radical dressing.”

Via garments, archival objects, paintings, photos and manuscripts, the exhibition examines how the collective explored a liberated sexuality, feminism, queerness and pacifism, amongst other ideas.

In Porter’s view, the assembled artifacts “shed latest light on their lives, in addition to bring insight into how we dress today. By mixing together the past with the current, I hope the show will encourage visitors to reconsider their future relationship with fashion.”

Erdem RTW Spring 2022

A glance from Erdem’s spring 2022 runway.

Giovanni Giannoni for WWD

The showcase will even debut never-before-seen portraits of Bell and Grant, and fashion designs by Jawara Alleyne, incorporating Bell’s fetish safety pins, and Ella Boucht, who uses tailoring to reimagine gender.

In parallel with “Bring No Clothes,” Charleston will mount a second exhibition dedicated to contemporary artist Jonathan Baldock.

Jones grew up in Lewes within the south of England, not removed from Charleston, the farmhouse Grant and Bell took over in 1916, turning it into the epicenter of their circle of writers, intellectuals, philosophers and artists. — MILES SOCHA

MORE SUPPORT: MAC Cosmetics is taking its annual Viva Glam campaign a step further this yr.

Reasonably than introducing a limited-edition lipstick collection to boost funds for organizations supporting equal rights, the brand will launch a Day of Giving on June 9, during which 100% of all lipstick sales will profit LGBTQ+ and girls’s rights organizations.

All lipstick sales made online and at freestanding MAC stores (excluding lip glosses, balms, palettes and primers) will count toward the trouble.

MAC Cosmetics

MAC Cosmetics

courtesy

“Opening up [the campaign] this yr to incorporate over 200 shades of lipstick in all sizes, allows us to broaden our reach and have interesting conversations with even those consumers who is probably not aware of Viva Glam,” said MAC’s senior vp and global chief marketing officer Aïda Moudachirou-Rébois.

Launched at the peak of the AIDS epidemic in 1984, Viva Glam sought to boost funds for organizations supporting the LGBTQ+ community through annual limited-edition collections. The primary face of the initiative was RuPaul, and the brand has since tapped distinguished popular culture figures like Lady Gaga, Rihanna and Mary J. Blige to front the campaign and collaborate on limited-edition sets.

Up to now, Viva Glam has donated over $500 million to grantees reminiscent of the Hetrick-Martin Institute and the L.A. LGBT Center, and in 2019 the brand expanded this system to learn women’s rights organizations as well.

Last yr MAC trialed its Day of Giving within the U.K., leading to raising $60,000 over a 24-hour period and prompting the brand to go global with the initiative, with the aim of raising $500,000.

“That was massive for that market — we want to evolve our initiatives so that they may be as impactful, and as breakthrough as they were after they were first born,” said Moudachirou-Rébois.

In March, the brand refreshed its 30-year-old Back to MAC sustainability program, partnering with Close the Loop and Plastics for Change to optimize its packaging recycling processes and support plastic collection staff.

“These issues have modified and evolved over time, and the technology available to enhance on these issues has also evolved — we have now the power now to the touch more people,” said Moudachirou-Rébois, adding that 2024 will mark each the thirtieth anniversary of Viva Glam and the fortieth anniversary of MAC’s founding.

“From 1994 to 2023, Viva Glam remains to be an important a part of our brand — that has stayed the identical,” said Moudachirou-Rébois. — NOOR LOBAD

CHANEL LINEUP: The 18th annual Chanel Tribeca Artist Awards Program has debuted an all-female lineup for 2023.

Tribeca Festival award winners shall be gifted original works created by artists chosen for this system by curator Racquel Chevremont. This yr’s artists include Ana Benaroya, Beverly Fishman, Christie Neptune, Lisa Lebofsky, Natia Lemay, Patricia Encarnacion, Renee Cox, Sheree Hovsepian, Shinique Smith and Wanda Raimundi-Ortiz. Their artwork shall be exhibited in the course of the film festival, which runs June 7 through June 18 at Spring Studios. 

Racquel Chevremont and Wanda Raimundi-Ortiz in a video still.

Racquel Chevremont and Wanda Raimundi-Ortiz

Courtesy

“Our focus is on giving women in the humanities their flowers and celebrating their trailblazing contributions to contemporary art,” Chevremont said in a press release announcing this yr’s program. The curator also leads a video that features interviews with the featured artists. “Throughout recorded history, from the cave painting to the camera, women have been driving forces in art around the globe. Yet female creatives remain woefully underrepresented. It’s imperative that we proceed to solicit and showcase the work of girls artists.”

The Artist Awards Program and the winning filmmakers shall be celebrated during an annual dinner hosted by Robert De Niro, Jane Rosenthal, Paula Weinstein and Chanel on June 12.  

Chanel is a longtime supporter of the Tribeca Festival, and pays homage to Gabrielle Chanel’s commitment to art and creativity through events including the “Through Her Lens” program for emerging female filmmakers. — KRISTEN TAUER

BEY AND MCQUEEN: Beyoncé was red-hot in a rouge Alexander McQueen ensemble for the second of 5 London performances of her “Renaissance World Tour.”

Inspired by look 41 from the style house’s fall 2023 collection, the custom-made style was composed of an embroidered red dress and gloves, and paired with metallic red boots. 

Beyoncé wearing Alexander McQueen for her second London performance.

Beyoncé wearing Alexander McQueen for her second London performance.

Courtesy of Alexander McQueen

Chosen by stylist Shiona Turini, the dress and gloves featured hand-embroidered bugle beading, which twinkled under the stage lights because the singer performed. 

This shouldn’t be the primary fall 2023 inspired McQueen look Beyoncé has worn for her world tour; previously she wore a heavily silver beaded jumpsuit from the label to the opening of her tour.

The autumn 2023 collection, like its pre-fall 2023 campaign that debuted earlier this month, placed emphasis on the facility and elegance that comes with sartorialism. 

Look 41 of Alexander McQueen's AW 2023 collection.

Look 41 of Alexander McQueen’s AW 2023 collection.

Courtesy of Alexander McQueen

“It feels smart within the times we live in; you must feel put together and robust against such chaos,” creative director Sarah Burton said of the brand’s fall collection.

Beyoncé is the newest to hitch in on Burton’s power dressing portfolio.

For the May 6 coronation service, Catherine, Princess of Wales, donned an extended white Alexander McQueen gown with embroidered flowers symbolizing the 4 countries that make up Great Britain.

Beyoncé wearing Alexander McQueen for her second London performance.

Beyoncé wearing Alexander McQueen for her second London performance.

Courtesy of Alexander McQueen

The “Renaissance World Tour” kicked off in Stockholm on May 10, and has seen Beyoncé sport looks from Loewe, Mugler, Alexander McQueen and David Koma. 

Sparkles and metallics have been a mainstay, with searches for “silver bodysuit” and “silver corset” rising 42 percent and 669 percent, respectively, for the reason that first night of the tour.

Overall, the search term for “Renaissance tour outfits” has increased by 658 percent. — HIKMAT MOHAMMED

BIGGER HOME: Frances Valentine, the life-style brand, is expanding its home offerings with home decor brand Annie Selke.

The Frances Valentine x Annie Selke capsule collection features 28 styles in a rainbow-hued assortment of wildlife, painterly stripes and geometric patterns across bedding, decorative pillows and throws. Details include embroidery and pompons. It’ll be introduced Thursday.

Prices range from $38 to $448.

Frances Valentine x Annie Selke bedding

Frances Valentine x Annie Selke bedding.

Courtesy of Frances Valentine

Among the many offerings are duvet covers, embroidered pillowcases, appliquéd pillows and embroidered pillows and throws.

Elyce Arons, cofounder and chief executive officer of Frances Valentine, said, “We desired to create home products because like styling yourself, decorating your property is so personal. Having fun, joyful, daring pieces you like makes the place you reside happier.”

Asked about latest categories within the pipeline, Arons said the brand recently launched its first signature fragrance and believes more beauty products would complement it. She plans so as to add more categories in the longer term but couldn’t expose them yet.

In the house category, Frances Valentine already offers notepaper, wine bags, beach umbrellas, sling chairs, beach towels and dinner napkins, amongst other offerings.

Frances Valentine’s offerings range from dresses, tops, tunics, caftans and jumpsuits to handbags, swim, pajamas, hats, home, fragrance, shoes and jewellery. — LISA LOCKWOOD

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