PARIS — Dries Van Noten approached fragrance and lipstick similar to he sets about creating his fashion, garden or home decor: with a clash of concepts and a riot of colours, prints and textures.

When joining the Puig group in 2018, the designer knew straight away he desired to dive into the world of perfume and sweetness.

“We began quite immediately exchanging ideas and dealing on concepts,” he said. “I don’t go for the simple way. As I make garments for a whole lot of several types of people, it will be strange to do a dictate of perfume, that you just say: ‘That is the one smell.’ I wanted really to have quite a spread.”

On March 2, the initial results will launch, because the designer unveils his debut beauty effort: a set of 10 fragrances, 30 lipsticks, plus accessories.

He has been sensitive to scent since childhood.

“Once I was within the kitchen, I put my nose in all of the pots and within the oven to smell what was there,” said Van Noten. “I remember very clearly my mother using Shalimar. The moment I used to be growing up, I immediately began to experiment with smells and perfumes.”

He loves the entire universe of scent — especially its gesture, tradition, packaging and mystery.

Traditional easy, transparent bottles, with the name of the perfume simply slapped on a label, wouldn’t do, either.

“The bottles really must reflect every part which I’m standing for, the way in which I believe in a creative way, clashing and mixing things,” said Van Noten. Ditto for the perfumes themselves.

Makeup also syncs well with Van Noten’s love of color play. He has had years of experience selecting cosmetics looks for his fashion brand’s hundred-plus shows and photo shoots.

“Once you see all those possibilities you’ve gotten to create things and to vary the look of a girl or a person by just making the eyes a little bit bit more mysterious, a little bit bit darker to make the mouth more visible,” said Van Noten.

Ana Trias Arraut, chief brands officer of Carolina Herrera, Dries Van Noten and Nina Ricci, fashion and sweetness, at Puig, said they desired to take the time “to bring something into the market that might be really relevant and never seen [before]. It was interesting to see from Puig’s side Dries pushing it without knowing the industry standards. He didn’t categorize the market like we did. He saw it as an entire world altogether. It created a really nice dialogue.”

The concentrate on gestures translated into creams and soaps being a part of the road from the outset.

Van Noten eschewed convention altogether. He invited perfumers to his gardens and residential near Antwerp, Belgium. There, they may smell Osmanthus as flowers on a tree, not only as an essence in a vial.

“That was very nice,” said Van Noten.

At home, he layers interiors with flea market finds and priceless objects.

“I don’t look to the normal order of things. High art, low art — I just have a look at every part the identical way. For me, something perfectly beautiful is boring. I at all times want that something is more surprising. I would like to have a clash…in the identical way that I mix my fabrics. The moment every part is fitting together too well, I begin to get nervous, and I would like to disturb it.”

That provides people a special vantage point, too, he explained.

Van Noten finds gardening each relaxing and a challenge, as a result of the colour selection.

“I take risks also within the garden,” he said, adding it’s a spot for dog-walking, as well. “Going to see the smallest flower, which is possibly flowering in the midst of winter, like witch hazel — you appreciate a tiny flower, and also you’re really comfortable.

“In fact in spring, within the month of May, it’s rhododendrons, it’s azaleas — with all of the smells which include [them],” Van Noten continued. “It’s an orgy of flowers and colours. As a human being, you learn loads from working in or having a garden, walking in nature.”

He has one other garden, of roses — a favourite flower. “Again, we put strange contrasts,” said Van Noten. “Sometimes probably the most beautiful rose I clashed with a really vibrant neon rose. I did combos which will not be really following the foundations. This reflects then, also, within the perfumes.”

There are two rose-based fragrances in the gathering, but they’re mixed with diverse olfactive notes to differing effects.

Perfumers chosen to work on the fragrances weren’t risk-averse, and got here from various houses, including IFF, Givaudan and Firmenich. Van Noten found their creations each fascinating and surprising.

For Raving Rose, Louise Turner got down to mix an “ultra-modern and spicy” scent. Nicolas Bonneville fashioned the Cannabis Patchouli perfume, while Nicolas Beaulieu conceived Voodoo Chile, with notes of rosemary and patchouli.

Each scent accommodates a minimum of 85 percent natural ingredients.

“Dries [induced perfumers] to have these unimaginable combos,” said Trias Arraut. “He pushed them to create the identical way he’s creating, to innovate.”

“It was hard to pick which 10 we’re going to use now,” said Van Noten.

After fragrance conception? “You actually had to decorate every perfume,” the designer said.

So he considered what person would wear the perfume and what bottle she or he would love.

Fleur du Mal, by Quentin Bisch, which features an Osmanthus note, is available in a tortoiseshell-inspired base holding a violet glass bottle. Marie Salamagne’s Soie Malaquais, with chestnut and vanilla notes, is available in dark burgundy glass combined with a porcelain piece inspired by Delft blue.

The apothecary-like bottles are fabricated from responsibly sourced, recyclable materials, including glass treated five other ways — from opaque to having gradient colours, aluminium and wood.

“We tried to do bottles that actually spoke for the juices they’d inside,” said Trias Arraut.

Each silver-colored bottle cap has Dries Van Noten engraved on it.

For the perfumes’ monikers, the working names coined by the perfumers often stuck. Fragrances fashioned the appellations, in other words.

Van Noten will launch 30 lipsticks, of which 15 have satin, 10 have matte and five have sheer finishes. There’s also a lip balm. The majority of every may be added to any of 4 available outer cases, that are as joyously decorated with colours and prints because the fragrances.

Sustainability was a must from the outset for Van Noten’s beauty collection. The perfume bottles are refillable and reusable. Pouches are fabricated from unused fabric from the style brand. And there’s no plastic foil surrounding the outer boxes fabricated from paper pulp.

“I really like also the connotation because normally, you purchase eggs within the supermarket in paper pulp, and now you purchase a precious bottle of perfume that can also be quite fragile with incredible content,” said Van Noten. “All those things I actually enjoyed.”

“Ethics and authenticity are at the guts of every part Dries does,” added Trias Arraut.

The brand new fragrance and makeup line are due out starting March 2 in Dries Van Noten boutiques and on the brand’s website. Other select retailers will begin selling the gathering at the top of April or early May.

A 100-ml. eau de parfum will retail for either 220 euros or 240 euros, while a lipstick is 35 euros. The gathering includes, as well, two eaux de cologne, soap, cream, combs and drawstring pouches.