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15 Jan

Haeckels On Scaling Sustainably  – WWD

Haeckels is scaling up sustainably. 

The British natural skincare and fragrance brand, which celebrated its tenth anniversary in 2022, used the milestone as a yr of reflection. 

“It’s a yr through which we now have built the brand in a scalable and transformational way,” said Charley Vickery, Haeckels managing director. “As we’ve expanded, we’ve honored that commitment to sustainability and to the environment.” 

The pledge is three-pronged, with Haeckels focused on reducing its carbon footprint, pioneering latest materials, and creating and growing less resource-intensive ingredients in lab conditions — while expanding. 

The equivalent of Haeckels 2.0 was launched in July 2022. A part of the goal was to not be a sustainable brand sold in traditional apothecary-style stores, Vickery said. So Haeckels, which is vertically integrated, began growing its key ingredient, algae, in bioreactors installed in some retail spaces, to create a local-ingredient supply chain.  

Within the U.K., the brand has debuted the concept within the likes of Selfridges, while in Continental Europe, it was launched at Dover Street Parfums Market in Paris in October. 

Haeckels considers the latter to indicate its true big step back into Europe, with a latest retail experience and relaunched brand. 

A Haeckels product

Haeckels plans to grow its hotel activity, having in 2021 partnered with Patina, starting within the Maldives.  “We consider there’s a extremely nice narrative over there about making a sustainable blueprint within the hotel industry,” said Vickery. 

He said that today, Haeckels’ scalable supply chain has enabled the brand to open in several markets and territories. It produces newfangled materials.  

Haeckels launched its skin products in packaging created from Vivomer, a home- and ocean-compostable material made with microbes.  

The brand knew its consumers wanted a refillable packaging system and more durable bottle for the house products. It drew inspiration from the ocean — sea glass, or naturally weathered glass — then Haeckels sandblasted glass to get its effect, and used a dye to make a longer-lasting label.  

It also whittled down another product packaging, akin to candle holders. 

The brand seeks to upcycle materials. As an example, Haeckels worked with a big energy-drinks company to make an edible, post-biotic cup. 

It recently launched a latest arm of its business, called Haeckels Lab — “taking a look at lab-grown and nature-identical ingredients,” that are grown in its laboratory in Margate, the U.K, said Vickery.  

“They’re nature-identical, but they’re not at all times natural,” he said, adding that they’re much less negatively environmentally impactful than natural ingredients shipped from afar. 

The Estée Lauder Cos. took a minority stake in Haeckels, owned by its founder Dom Bridges and angel investors, last February.  

“They’ve allowed us the liberty to do what we’ve done,” said Vickery, explaining Lauder has let Haeckels put money into the corporate greater than in growth. 

The manager wouldn’t discuss company sales, but industry sources estimate they fall below 5 million kilos and grow by double digits annually. 

Meanwhile, Haeckels stays open to investment.  

“For us, there’s 1,000,000 ideas,” said Vickery. “If you happen to invest into the appropriate department and also you scale it, it might probably grow into something amazing. Specifically, our packaging innovations,” as plastic alternatives.

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