Jonathan Cohen’s fall collection began by watching a bouquet of peonies bloom inside his Upper East Side boutique.

“I loved watching and monitoring the method; we called the gathering ‘The Birth of the Peony,’” he told WWD. The peony was rendered in multiple stages (and forms) across the gathering — in the shape of painterly motifs atop beautiful dresses and matching sets; as colourful 3D floral appliqués (constructed from fabric scraps) atop a denim bustier and flounced skirt, and exploded across his exceptional knitwear (a la drippy jacquard jumpers, skirts and simple dresses, in addition to artisanal rainbow crochet numbers made in Peru with deadstock cotton). 

Cohen added he loved the contrast between the blooming motifs and his blurred lip and eye prints,  taken from transferred watercolor paintings on paper towels (which he originally created in 2017). The playful yet artful print was rendered on a textured jacquard in the shape of a bustier cocktail dress and dramatic cape with bulbous sleeves, in addition to a voluminous dress. 

Across the gathering, Cohen added ample youthful silhouettes — as seen from an expanded assortment of leather pieces made in partnership (for the second season) with Evolved by Nature, including harness belts, bustiers with trousers, and skin-baring numbers. Next to his dressier fare of cocktail dresses, tiered skirts with sweaters, voluminous evening layers, the assortment offered a pleasant balance between the sweet and edgy, amplified by Cohen’s vibrant hues, precise cuts and artisanal details.