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21 Jul

Indie Beauty Brands to Watch – WWD

Indie Beauty Brands to Watch – WWD

“I grew bored with the dearth of quality products for my skin type,” said Stacey Pearl, an exhibitor at Cosmoprof North America in Las Vegas.

“To be considered an authority, whether it’s hair or makeup, it doesn’t include having expertise and even general knowledge for melanated skin. So, I took matters into my very own hands.”

Born within the U.S., Pearl moved to Italy as a young woman to runway model. It’s there that she met a makeup artist who would introduce her to an engineer.

“From there, we went to a bordering town in France and began working with a laboratory and doctor to create something that was convenient, functional, and just made sense,” said the entrepreneur, who now resides in Paris.

The result’s the Le Fix wand, a tool that removes the highest layer of the skin and stimulates skin cell renewal.

“Natural dermabrasion,” explained Pearl. “It’s made with medical-grade crystal and blasted with diamond dust. Now we have two patented technologies on the surface.”

She offers it as a part of a three-step system priced at $249, alongside Phyto Prep — a three-in-one botanical cleanser, makeup remover and exfoliator — and Hydra Fin — a day by day moisturizer and hydrating mask.

“You’re able to present yourself an expert facial in under five minutes,” she said, testing the set on the hands of passersby. She applied the gel cleanser, made with fruit acids and chamomile, before using the Le Fix (“Let it soak in alcohol and rinse it or use a UV sanitizer,” she said of cleansing the tool.) After a mild massage, she wiped off the gel with a cloth and water. She then added the moisturizer, made with azelaic acid.

“It’s a natural version of retinol,” she said of the compound. “Retinol could cause an hostile response in melanated skin.”

The skin is left exfoliated, moisturized, brighter and glowing. Together with the face, Le Fix might be used on the neck, décolletage and small body parts just like the hands.

“We’re science and plant-based,” Pearl continued.

Launched two years ago, her namesake brand offers quite a lot of products for the face, hair and body, including a serum with 15 percent hyaluronic acid and an “Invisible Dry Sunscreen” with SPF 45. Made in France — in a region that has been specializing in plant-based practices because the fifteenth century, she said — Pearl has goods for consumers, in addition to a more enhanced collection for professionals. She currently sells direct-to-consumer and recently partnered with Empower Global, an e-commerce site for Black-owned businesses that’s backed by Sean “Diddy” Combs.

Stacey Pearl

Stacey Pearl

Courtesy of Stacey Pearl

“We didn’t come to play,” said Pearl. “We got here to disrupt the industry.”

She’s had a gathering with Thirteen Lune, the wonder company showcasing Black and brown-owned beauty brands. “And I’m in search of Neiman Marcus.”

Across the aisles, Sarah Biggers was looking for one more retailer.

“I’d like to see our brand at Goal,” said the founding father of Clover by Clove + Hallow.

Her booth stood out as one in all the few color cosmetics featured within the “Discover Green” section of the ground, dedicated to “clean” beauty.

Based in Atlanta, it was her third time on the trade show.

“While there are such a lot of beauty brands coming into the market, there’s not that many which can be doing clean and reasonably priced,” she said of its point of difference.

Sarah Biggers, founding father of Clover by Clove + Hallow.

Courtesy of Clover by Clove + Hallo

There’s also one other major element setting it apart: the brand makes it known that they provide “dupes.”

“We’re taking a look at luxury products in the marketplace and pondering, ‘OK, how will we capture that very same performance but make it higher?’” she said. “Now we have a four-leaf clover strategy, which implies we improve the ingredients to be clean, cruelty-free and vegan. We’re improving the sourcing and manufacturing to be within the U.S. We’re improving the packaging to be super sustainable, so we use one hundred pc PCR, sugarcane bioplastic. Our lipstick is the world’s first mono-resin [plastic], fully recycled and fully recyclable lipstick tube — while keeping all of it below $22. Our average price is around $16.”

Legally, how is she in a position to market “dupes”?

“We’re not misleading customers,” she continued. “We’re not pretending it’s the identical product. We don’t promote it as the identical product. We don’t use the identical color, same logo, the identical componentry. So, it’s very clear that they’re distinct products. And I believe there’s a conversation around ethics with dupes, too. And for us, we now have a number of rules, , one in all which is we don’t dupe other small brands, other indie brands because they don’t have the brand power. But additionally, there’s a mutually symbiotic and useful relationship with dupes. If we’re saying, ‘When you love,’ let’s just say for instance, ‘Lancôme Hypnôse, you’re gonna love our Maxed Out Volumizing Mascara,’ it’s a very good thing to the Lancôme Hypnôse mascara.”

The $14 Clover by Clove + Hallow Super Slick Lip Jelly.

Courtesy of Clover by Clove + Hallo

Her most repurchased item is the $14 Super Slick Lip Jelly, a juicy, non-sticky formula with sheer color that’s “inspired by Dior’s Addict Lip Glow Oil,” as the location notes. Other hero products are the $16 “Glow Stick Illuminator” (dupe for Chanel’s “Baume Essentiel”) and $18 “Pressed Silk Blushing Balm” (dupe for Makeup by Mario’s “Soft Pop Plumping Blush Veil”).

Launched in 2021 (“We had limited resources and focus behind the brand until about six months ago, though, so to us it appears like a six-month-old brand”), Clover by Clove + Hallow is sold at Rite Aid and is soon rolling out with HSN. It’s also present in about 30 spa boutiques and salons.

“What’s so interesting about Clover is the best way that it could actually play high and low,” she said. “So, it looks very finished, very polished. The packaging could be very high-end and cohesive, however it’s got that reasonably priced price point. So higher-end retailers consider us as an impulse purchase and a mixed-match buy and drug and mass market stores are taking a look at us because the higher-end representation.”

Of her experience at Cosmoprof, she added: “When you’re in search of supplies, manufacturers, retail, you may get a pleasant amount of every little thing in a single place. We’re in search of primarily retail distribution.”

Brian Paternostro, who may very well be present in hair, was in search of suppliers and wholesalers to distribute his creation — the Qweeni cap — to salons and retailers.

Courtesy

“I’ve sold several thousand caps this 12 months,” he said. “We’re trying to increase upon that as time goes by.”

The concept for the cap — a $45 shower cap with a frontal partition opening that’s in a position to snap close — was born 4 years ago.

“It was when my brother and his daughter were living with me,” he explained. “And so, my niece was fresh out of school and what she was doing, she liked to go to the gym within the afternoon and exit along with her friends at night. But obviously she was compressed for time.”

She’s also allergic to dry shampoo.

“What she was doing is tying trash bags round her head and washing her hair in my kitchen sink,” he said. “After some time, I got bored with cleansing her hair in my sink. I said, ‘I would like you to make use of a shower cap. She goes, ‘Well, I still gotta wash this hair,” he went on, of the front section — which was oily in comparison with the remaining of her hair. “So we took some shower caps and began cutting holes in them, began pulling the hair through and the concept worked, and so then I took it to an engineer, and we began creating the concept.”

Essentially, it allows for people to clean the front of their hair, an area that’s oilier than the remaining, he said, between full wash days. He’s targeting skilled salons too, for those trying to protect hair extensions from getting wet.

“My original batch were made in Miami, but for growth and value, I needed to go to Bolivia,” he said of production. “My next batch I can have to go to Mexico for larger quantities. I’m exploring. I even have an engineer who’s a fashion engineer. She’s helped me bring it to where it’s today and he or she has sewing factories in all these places throughout Latin America.”

Based in Florida, it was his second 12 months at Cosmoprof, after launching a 12 months prior. Qweeni cap is currently sold in salons in Latest York City, Kansas City, Connecticut and Orlando.

“Last 12 months, I got invited to satisfy with Goal in the customer’s lounge,” he said. “They told me, ‘Hey, we like the concept. We just like the concept. We like every little thing about you. But you’re a brand-new startup. And if we were to issue a [purchase order] for 10,000 units, that might crush you.’ And I said, ‘Yeah, you’re absolutely right.’ Since I’m bootlegging this whole project myself, I’d not have the ability to handle that giant order that quick. So, I’m selecting to grow organically and slowly. They said, ‘Come back if you’re ready.’”

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