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11 Aug

Luxury Stocks Surge, Rowing Blazers Launches Goal Collection

Stock Surge: Luxury stocks surged Thursday on the Paris bourse after China lifted its long-standing travel ban on group tours to greater than 70 locations, with immediate effect.

The increases were led by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, whose stock closed the day up 3.4 percent to 834.70 euros, while Hermès International’s stock rose 3.2 percent to 1,960.20 euros.

China’s Ministry of Culture and Tourism said Thursday it had ended its ban on group tours to 78 locations within the Asia-Pacific region, Europe, North America and Africa, three years after it was instigated to stem the spread of the coronavirus, in early 2020.

Chinese travelers can now visit the U.S., Japan, South Korea, the U.K., German and Australia, amongst other locales.

Beijing dropped its zero-COVID-19 policy in December 2022, then the next month allowed for group tours to twenty countries. That number was expanded to 60 in March.

Other French luxury stocks ending Thursday up included Dior couture, with a 2.7 percent gain to 781.50 euros, and Kering with a 2.2 percent rise to 528.40 euros.

“The Chinese used to spend 70 percent of their luxury budget when traveling abroad pre-COVID[-19]. And while we consider among the spend repatriation to China will sustain, there continues to be about 50 percent of spend we expect to occur abroad, as Chinese customers benefit from the [approximately] 30 percent lower prices and tax benefits,” wrote Maria Meiță, Bernstein consumer sector specialist, in a research note. “Our top picks on this scenario are LVMH, Kering, Shiseido and Estée [Lauder Cos.].” JENNIFER WEIL and TIANWEI ZHANG

Reasonably priced Classics: Goal is continuous its popular fall designer collection series, teaming this time with the buzzy preppy-inspired brand Rowing Blazers.

A limited-time only collection of greater than 100 pieces of men’s, women’s and youngsters’s apparel, accessories, home, outdoor play and pet products will likely be offered starting Sept. 23. Prices will start at $5, with most pieces under $30.

“For nearly 25 years, Goal has partnered with among the biggest and brightest names within the industry, bringing guests on-trend designs at an incredible value,” said Jill Sando, executive vp and chief merchandising officer for the retailer. “This fall, we’re teaming up with Rowing Blazers, a brand known for putting a fresh, colourful twist on American classics.”

Rowing Blazers was founded in 2017 by Jack Carlson, who has a Ph.D. in archaeology from Oxford University, was a coxswain on the U.S. national rowing team, and is the writer of “A Humorous Guide to Heraldry” and “Rowing Blazers,” a coffee-table book in regards to the “authentic striped, piped, trimmed and badged” jackets worn by oarsman world wide. He has collaborated with a wide selection of brands including Sperry Top-Sider, Fila Noah, Eric Emanuel and even John’s Pizza. Earlier this yr, he formed the Blazer Group, a brand platform and design house that signed long-term or perpetual licenses for little-known or dormant heritage labels including British brands Warm & Wonderful and Gyles & George — each favorites of the late Princess Diana — in addition to the life-style brand Arthur Ashe, founded by the late American tennis icon.

“Working with Goal on this partnership is a dream come true,” said Carlson. “My vision for the Rowing Blazers brand relies on the thought of taking the classics and making them fun, interesting and approachable. This collaboration allows us to be more accessible than ever — with first-time products for Rowing Blazers like children’s clothing and residential decor.”

The Rowing Blazers x Goal collection will offer updated staples comparable to rugby shirts, crewnecks, blazers, trousers and jackets in sizes from XXS-5X. The gathering will likely be offered online in addition to in select Goal stores. — JEAN E. PALMIERI

Copenhagen Concept: Swedish label J.Lindeberg has arrange big shop in Copenhagen, Denmark, for its flagship in an area previously occupied by Burberry.

The shop opens on Friday right after Copenhagen Fashion Week concludes.

“We’re excited to bring our recent store concept to Copenhagen to maintain connecting J.Lindeberg with the world. The brand new store is progressive, lively and interesting, and shows our mission to bridge the unexpected and keep breaking conventions,” said Hans-Christian Meyer, CEO of J.Lindeberg.

The space takes after a clean and minimal aesthetic of stonewash partitions and grey marble benches with silver iron fixtures designed by Thibaut Allgayer. Three gray robotic arms are installed as a nod to technology and digitalization.

Peter Dalsgaard

In June, the brand arrange a three-month summer pop-up at Harrods.

The 280-square-foot space offered a choice of the summer holiday collection, which is inspired by the colourful spirit of Miami and the laid-back atmosphere of the Swedish west coast.

The space was accompanied by a window display featuring two melting purple coconut trees, with a blue polo shirt and a pair of zebra shorts hanging on considered one of them.

Meyer said activations with key fashion players like Harrods present “a terrific opportunity to bring our brand to life and showcase our latest collection at considered one of the world’s most prestigious retail destinations.”

Under the leadership of Meyer, who used to work as president of retail for Ralph Lauren’s European operations, revenue has greater than doubled over the past two years, increasing from $60 million in 2020 to $130 million last yr, with further growth expected this yr.

While it’s primarily known for its golfwear within the U.S., the brand, which was founded by Johan Lindeberg, the previous marketing director of Diesel, in 1996, has been adopting a more fashion-focused positioning. 

Fashion product now accounts for 40 percent of the brand’s global sales, and is about to take up even higher percentages in the long run. — HIKMAT MOHAMMED

Trunk Show: Moda Operandi will launch its second curated trunk show with the Fifteen Percent Pledge, a nonprofit organization that calls on retailers and corporations to dedicate 15 percent of their purchasing power to Black-owned businesses, on Friday. While the primary trunk show collaboration in March featured ready-to-wear, this one will highlight three positive jewelry designers and three home brands chosen in partnership with Moda Operandi and the Fifteen Percent Pledge.

The trunk show goals to not only increase visibility for Black brands and designers, which have faced multiple barriers when attempting to increase their recognition — with 67 percent reporting that they’ve faced microaggressions of their work — but in addition provide a possibility for Black entrepreneurs to grow their businesses.

The positive jewelry brands are V.Bellan, A.M. Thorne and Dan-yell. The house brands are Keraclay, Porcelain Sneakerhead and Jomo Tariku.

“Our customer is perpetually in search of recent brands and great product. This trunk show showcases just that from a lot of exciting BIPOC [Black, Indigenous, people of color] businesses,” said Ryan Kleman, Moda Operandi’s accessories designer. Gabby Cadet, fashion office associate added, “We worked closely with the Fifteen Percent Pledge team to pick brands and pieces that might resonate with our customer. From unique gemstones with individuality with A.M. Thorne, soft geometric forms with Dan-yell, and handcrafted classic cool with V.Bellan, we curated a jewellery selection with a story to inform. In Home, Jomo Tariku creates modern African-inspired furniture, Keraclay creates sustainable ceramics constituted of recycled clay, and Porcelain Sneakerhead brings a touch of caprice and irony along with her Instagram-famous ceramic sneaker.” — LISA LOCKWOOD

Pay Problems: A month after resolving winding-up petitions filed by a pool of U.K.-based creditors, luxury lingerie brand La Perla has allegedly didn’t pay its Italian staffers this month, based on a note issued by local trade unions.

A glance from La Perla, which has allegedly didn’t pay its Italian staffers this month.

The Filctem-Cgil and Uiltec-Uil unions said in a joint statement that the corporate, now owned by German businessman Lars Windhorst’s private equity firm Tennor, and based in London, didn’t pay wages to its Bologna, Italy-based employees this month. They unpaid staff reportedly total 350.

“We consider this as an act of utmost seriousness which confirms the caliber of the management’s commitment to the La Perla Group,” the unions said. “In consideration of this umpteenth act of disdain from La Perla’s management team we urge [parties] to assemble at a round table on the ministry [of Enterprises and Made in Italy],” they added.

Unions claim the ministry has yet to summon the parties to seek out a way forward for the corporate’s operations in Italy although the Emilia-Romagna region and town of Bologna have each urged it to achieve this.

La Perla representatives didn’t immediately reply to requests for comment Thursday.

Within the U.K. the brand had been served winding-up notices in past months by Purple PR; the accountancy firm Mazars; the design agency Edge Retail, and the consultancy firm HSO Enterprise Solutions. Petitions have since been withdrawn after La Perla paid its debts, as reported last month, apart from the latter, as the corporate still owes HSO Enterprise Solutions greater than 701,129 kilos, and a winding-up petition was still pending last month.

The troubled innerwear brand has been searching for brand spanking new revenue streams and has expanded into beauty and swimwear. It became considered one of the primary brands to hitch Amazon Luxury Stores. The corporate also invested $50 million into the now-shuttered British couture house Ralph & Russo. — MARTINO CARRERA

FGI Dallas: The Dallas chapter of Fashion Group International will present Christian Siriano with an award for Achievement in Fashion at its annual Night of Stars gala on Nov. 10 on the Ritz-Carlton, Dallas.

Christian Siriano

Christian Siriano

courtesy FGI

Known for red-carpet creations, Siriano founded his label in 2008 after winning Season 4 of TV’s “Project Runway” design competition, where he has served as a mentor to contestants each season since 2019. The runway show he mounts on the gala will have a good time the fifteenth anniversary of his business, based on event cochair Cristina Graham.

FGI Dallas’s Night of Stars may also pay tribute to model and variety activist Bethann Hardison for Lifetime Legacy and Latest Orleans pop artist Ashley Longshore for Exuberance in Art. As well as, Elle magazine editor in chief and “Project Runway” judge Nina Garcia will likely be honored for Excellence in Media. Fern Mallis, who was feted as an Icon of Innovation eventually yr’s FGI Dallas Night of Stars, is honorary chair.

The event unites people across Dallas’s fashion and design industries while raising funds for scholarships. Tickets starting at $500 go on sale Sept. 1 at fgidallas.muradbid.com. — HOLLY HABER

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