Miu Miu | Fall Winter 2022/2023 | Fashion Show

It was only fitting that Miu Miu would have the ultimate say this season. Because of a change in the normal schedule, the show rang out a month of collections, for which its last proposal set the tone in a giant way. Apart from Balenciaga, no brand has been as impactful as Miu Miu on the silhouette we’ve encountered on every day runways over the past 4 weeks: an oversized blazer or coat worn over a lingerie element and a mini- or evening skirt. This season, Miuccia Prada reiterated that influence in a group that continued where the last one left off, reminding the industry who got the thought in the primary place.

The winter embodiment of the Miu Miu girl we’re still attending to know was less of a workaholic and more of a sports freak. After disrupting archaic office dress codes last season, she set her sights on the tennis court, giving Wimbledon officials greater than they bargained for in super-short, low-riding Y2K skirts and tops with cheekily placed see-through lace panels. She didn’t care if it was winter because she’s too hot to get cold. Memories from her junior ballet phase (she outgrew it) manifested in ballerinas and knitted socks before her inner rebel really took over and things went hell for leather.

As the identical theme appeared in latest variations—shearling, snakeskin-printed or stained leather, with faux-fur lapels—a more gender-diverse expression of the Miu Miu person took shape, demonstrating how the skimpy silhouette also works on nonbinary and traditionally masculine (yet very slender) physiques. Put into practice, it wasn’t a mirage. Together with every fashion girl and their mother this month, men have been wearing last season’s cropped Miu Miu cable knits and little jackets to the shows and sometimes with viable results. This time, there was latest material for them to obsess over: lace-up leather trousers, big buckle boots, and a few prettily encrusted sheer crystal dresses, if there’s time for a drink after tennis.

Prada invited guests to look at her show in deck chairs decorated with the animated monster motifs by the duo Nathalie Djurberg and Hans Berg. As a designer who famously never sits back to chill out, this season was an exception. The impact of October’s Miu Miu show was so strong it should echo far beyond the following six months, and now could be the time for her to capitalize on that. Kicking back in Prada’s deck chair, you couldn’t help but smile for her. With a co–creative director in place at Prada, it seems she now has the time to focus more on Miu Miu and show us she’s still got her singles game right down to a tee.

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