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22 Nov

Mouna Ayoub Sells Chanel Coat for 312,000 Euros, Phoebe

STEPPING UP: Brooke Jaffe has been promoted to senior vice chairman of public affairs and strategy at Penske Media Corp., the parent company of WWD.

Within the role, Jaffe will proceed to assist speed up and grow recent and existing business across PMC and its brands. Since she joined PMC in 2019, Jaffe has added responsibilities for Dick Clark Productions public relations, and served as a part of the leadership team constructing LA3C, PMC’s Los Angeles-focused festival.

Brooke Jaffe

Tina Chiou

Jaffe will proceed to drive internal and external communication strategies for PMC, including media communication, brand amplification, corporate messaging, information dissemination and issue management. Her work may even include engaging with and influencing public policy, including fostering relationships with outside organizations that align with PMC’s business and mission to be a force for good inside communities.

“Brooke is such a significant and trusted partner to me and our entire senior leadership team,” said Jay Penske, chief executive officer, chairman and founding father of Penske Media Corporation and CEO of Dick Clark Productions. “She brings positivity, creativity, drive, strategic considering and collaboration to each business at PMC.  We’re very thankful and proud to have Brooke on our team.” 

Before Jaffe joined PMC, she spent greater than a decade at Bloomingdale’s as women’s fashion director where she was chargeable for determining business trends, discovering emerging talent and directing merchandise selection for the corporate nationwide. — WWD STAFF

SOLD: Mouna Ayoub’s auction of the crème de la crème of her vast collection of Chanel high fashion was successful.

Maurice Auction sold all 252 lots on Monday night on the Pavillon Gabriel in Paris, netting 1.5 million euros, with one evening coat — embroidered by Lesage to resemble the ornate Coromandel screens that founder Gabrielle Chanel so treasured — fetching 312,000 euros, in response to a spokeswoman for the sale.

The star lot, the coat was estimated to fetch between 150,000 and 200,000 euros.

Ayoub said she wore it just once — to attend an opera at La Scala in Milan. It was from Chanel’s fall 1996 high fashion collection.

A black sheath dress draped with gold chains went for 75,400 euros, and a leather and gilt “boxing” belt from the autumn 1991 collection for 16,900 euros.

Other lots on offer included dresses, suits, shoes, jewelry, belts and even a wig with an ankle-length ponytail that Shalom Harlow rocked on the runway, dated from 1990 to 2014.

International buyers snapped up 75 percent of the lots, in response to Maurice Auction.

In an interview last week, Ayoub said she was parting ways along with her beloved Chanels because they don’t fit her any more.

Also, “I really need to provide the young generation that didn’t know Karl and didn’t have the possibility to own any high fashion pieces by Karl to own them and wear them and love them like I did,” she told WWD.

Ayoub took loving care of her exceptional Chanels, purchasing lots of them for his or her sheer beauty and exceptional craftsmanship. All were stored in museum-caliber storage conditions.

She plans to donate a part of the proceeds from the sale to Fondation des Femmes, a company that champions women’s rights and freedom, while combating violence against them.

A well known society figure and jet-setter originally hailing from Lebanon, Ayoub works in real estate, buying and selling properties within the U.S. — and plowing the lion’s share of her gains into her bulging, gently used couture wardrobe.

She still possesses about 2,500 high fashion pieces — and more are on the best way. She has orders in progress at Chanel, Schiaparelli, Fendi and Dior. — MILES SOCHA

SECOND COMING: Philo-philes can circle Nov. 28 on their calendars — and hope it coincides with payday.

Phoebe Philo

Phoebe Philo

Courtesy of Phoebe Philo

British designer Phoebe Philo, who unveiled the primary designs of her recent signature fashion house last month, announced Tuesday that the second delivery of her first “edit” — her term for collections — shall be available for purchase starting that day on phoebephilo.com.

Other details about this second act are under wraps. A 3rd delivery of this edit, dubbed A1, is predicted at a later date.

Philo plans to release future edits in response to her own schedule, relatively than the standardized fashion calendar, as she sees her recent designs as seasonless and a part of a continuous body of labor.

The primary delivery of Phoebe Philo — easily essentially the most anticipated womenswear collection of 2023 — appears to have sold out rapidly. The label covers the gamut of categories, spanning ready-to-wear, footwear, handbags, jewelry and eyewear.

As reported, retail prices for A1 range from $1,400 to $2,400 for trousers; $2,200 to $8,500 for dresses; $3,600 to $4,800 for knits; $3,600 to $4,500 for tailored jackets; $6,900 to $12,000 for leather jackets, and $16,500 to $25,000 for shearling jackets. Shoes run from $1,100 to $1,750 and purses from $3,500 to $8,500.

Anticipation for the gathering has been constructing since Philo revealed in July 2021 that she could be returning to fashion with a recent, independent house, and with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton as a minority investor.

Probably the most revered — and bankable — designers of her generation, she might be best known for engineering a brand rejuvenation at LVMH-owned Celine. — M.S.

REAL SMART: For jeweler David Morris, artificial intelligence is the most recent creative involved in its 2023 Christmas campaign, released Wednesday.

But don’t call this an AI-generated campaign.

Given it also called for a live model, jewelry and real props, “mixed media” is a greater descriptor, said the jeweler’s brand content manager, Cecily Morris.

“AI shouldn’t be quite to the purpose where you press a button and it spits out a campaign,” she continued, calling it no alternative for human creativity — or artistic ability, especially with regards to details of human anatomy like hands and eyes.

Using AI slotted in with the brand’s technophile approach that saw it launch high jewelry through e-commerce pre-pandemic, due to a hookup with Farfetch, but in addition felt an apt tool to trial in a social and video-first campaign.

What it does facilitate is agility, helping the brand was “achieve more, with a better-suited timeline,” said Morris. In comparison with computer-generated imagery, the method had taken around two months, relatively than a yr.

David Morris' Fortuna collection featured in the 2023 Christmas campaign.

David Morris’ Fortuna collection featured within the 2023 Christmas campaign.

Courtesy of David Morris

Each collection also received a full complement of assets due to AI, with videos as much as a minute, relatively than 30-second clips and limited still imagery, with a value on par with a classic shoot with a model — and half of what a live production involving bold-face creatives could be.

Created in collaboration with London-based Junction 11 Creative Studios, the vacation lineup explores eight of the brand’s collections, including Miss Daisy, Fortuna and Rose Cut. Entering into David Morris’ rose-hued box, the model is then taken right into a whirlwind tour of unique sceneries inspired by the narratives behind each line.

The agency’s creative director Darren Giles said “integrating data-driven and generative AI brought recent ways to channel our creative aspirations, allowing us more opportunities to craft, play and refine.”

The jeweler’s Christmas campaign shall be released across its social media and digital platforms. — LILY TEMPLETON

TEACHING MOMENT: Bianca Saunders, who scored the 2021 edition of the ANDAM Fashion Prize, has been named the most recent mentor at Istituto Marangoni’s London campus for the educational yr starting October 2023.

Bianca Saunders

Bianca Saunders

Virginie Khateeb for WWD

Under her recent role, Saunders will lead master classes that delve deep into the creative and technical features of fashion design, present guest speakers to share their knowledge and insights, and supply one-on-one feedback to students directly, the college said.

Valérie Berdah-Levy, director at Istituto Marangoni London, said Saunders’ creative approach to design “aligns perfectly with our commitment to expanding the boundaries of traditional fashion.”

“Her extensive experience and fresh perspective will provide unique and unparalleled insights while inspiring and empowering our students, as they embark on their very own journeys throughout the fashion industry,” she added.

“I’m honored to be a component of the esteemed group of mentors aiding in Istituto Marangoni London’s mission to nurture and shape the long run of fashion,” Saunders said. “I sit up for sharing my experiences, knowledge and fervour for the industry with the scholars to progress forward as the subsequent generation of designers.”

Every yr, Istituto Marangoni London selects industry leaders to create a curriculum for the scholars expanding their knowledge while providing them with the guidance to reach the style industry. Prior to Saunders, the college hired Grace Wales Bonner and Katie Grand as mentors in London, and Olivier Rousteing, creative director at Balmain, for the Paris branch.

Founded in 1935, Istituto Marangoni now teaches around 5,000 students from its schools in Milan, Florence, Paris, London, Dubai, Mumbai, Shanghai, Shenzhen and Miami. Notable graduates include Domenico Dolce, Alessandro Sartori, Paula Cademartori and Gilda Ambrosio. — TIANWEI ZHANG

BUSINESS STRATEGY: Laurence Lapierre, a longtime Burberry executive, will join KCD as senior vice chairman, media relations, effective in January.

Lapierre is to oversee several of KCD’s foremost clients and help the European office develop recent business across the media relations, digital and inventive divisions. She is to work closely with Alexis Arnault, KCD Paris partner, and the senior managers of the varied groups.

Laurence Lapierre

Laurence Lapierre

Vincent Blocquaux/Courtesy of KCD Paris

“Lapierre involves KCD with extensive knowledge throughout the luxury sphere, a longtime industry network, a daring sense of leadership and a real passion for creativity and innovation,” KCD said in a press release.

A graduate of the Institut Supérieur de Communication et Publicité with a master’s degree in communications, specializing in public relations, Lapierre will join the agency from Burberry, where she worked for 15 years, most recently as director of promoting and communications for Europe.

Prior to that, she spent almost nine years at Chloé, where she handled global PR and VIP strategy.

“Her marketing and digital experience and exceptional industry insight are notable assets she is going to bring to our clients,” said Arnault. “Her excellent management and leadership skills shall be key in developing our Paris team across the media relations, digital and inventive groups and transmitting the values which are dear to us at KCD.”

Founded in 1984, KCD works with brands that span from emerging to established, providing bespoke consulting and handling the whole lot from media relations to creative, fashion services, digital, guest experience and VIP services.

KCD Paris clients include Balmain, Brunello Cucinelli, Diesel, Gucci, Isabel Marant, Mugler, Rabanne and Rick Owens. — JOELLE DIDERICH

PRESENTING FASHION: Music, television, fashion and motion!

Maya Jama, the British television presenter famed for hosting the dating game show “Love Island” will host the 2023 Fashion Awards together with musician Kojey Radical. Meanwhile, former celebrity stylist Law Roach will host the red carpet coverage.

The event will happen on Dec. 4 at Royal Albert Hall in London.

Maya Jama, Law Roach, Kojey Radical fashion awards host

Maya Jama, Law Roach and Kojey Radical.

Courtesy of BFC

“The 2 [Jama and Radical] are pioneers of their respective industries and represent fashion’s position on the intersection of culture. I sit up for seeing their dynamic energy on stage as we rejoice the various achievements of the style industry this yr,” said Caroline Rush, chief executive officer of the BFC.

Grace Wales Bonner, Martine Rose, Maximilian Davis and Kim Jones are among the many nominees for the night.

Makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury will receive the Special Recognition Award and designer Valentino Garavani will receive the Outstanding Achievement prize for his “groundbreaking couture creations” and red carpet gowns.

The awards could have a definite British accent this season, with the vast majority of nominees born or based here, or drawn from the London Fashion Week calendar. They represent emerging and established talent, and most of them run independent labels. 

Up to now, lots of these British-based designers needed to compete with international names working for the massive European luxury groups. 

Categories include Model of the Yr, British Menswear Designer, British Womenswear Designer, Designer of the Yr, BFC Foundation Award, Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator, Outstanding Achievement Award and Leader of Change. — HIKMAT MOHAMMED

PEARL PERFUMES: Lalique Group has signed a worldwide fragrance license with Japanese jeweler Mikimoto, famed for its pearl creations.

The license, which pertains to a set of perfumes and crystal editions, will initially run through 2035, Lalique said in a press release released Tuesday.

The primary crystal edition under the license is predicted in 2025. The international launch of the primary luxury perfume created with Lalique Group is slated for spring 2026.

“The fragrances shall be distributed and marketed through Lalique Group’s global network, leveraging Mikimoto’s renowned brand in Asia and other key markets including the Americas, Europe and the Middle East,” Lalique Group said.

Mikimoto was founded in 1893 by Kokichi Mikimoto, who developed the primary cultured pearl. The brand has flagship boutiques in financial and luxury hubs across the globe, including Tokyo, Latest York, Paris, London, Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Taipei, Singapore and Bangkok.

“Mikimoto and Lalique Group share a way of excellence and craftsmanship making this partnership and idea opportunity to further strengthen our perfume portfolio,” said Roger von der Weid, chief executive officer of Lalique Group.

“Each firms address a market within the high-end consumer goods sector, where perfumes are a vital type of expression and in addition a natural fit with pearl jewelry,” said Yasuhiko Hashimoto, managing director of Mikimoto. “With Lalique Group as a premium manufacturer, we will take our perfume offering to the subsequent level.”

Lalique Group’s fragrance portfolio also includes Lalique parfums, Brioni Fragrances, Jaguar Fragrances, Bentley Fragrances, Parfums Grès and Parfums Samouraï. The group will soon launch scents for Superdry. — JENNIFER WEIL

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